Kimble275

How do you oil an engine?

I have a Smartech Winner 3. With .15 engine. It's been running great, I don't get why people say they arn't any good. Probably cuz they just came out. But I find mine to be very reliable.

Do I mix oil with the fuel? Or what do I do?

miserynitro

My Feedback: (8)

there is oil already in your fuel... and the oiling you are talking about is it after run oil?? if so, you put a couple of drops down the carb, and a couple of drops in from the glow plug hole... wait a couple of minutes.. give it a pull or 2, set the pistion to BDC(bottom dead center), and you are done.

Shadow102

My Feedback: (5)

smartech is crap compared to what is out there they basically are cheap because of the money they saved on engineering and machining cost plus the parts availabilty for them is slim to none.

neway onto the answer of your question plain and simple you do not add oil to the fuel or anything for that matter unless it is after runn oil. all nitro fuels that i know of that are mass procduced have an oil content already in the usually around 15-18% oil content.

Kimble275

Well, Mine runs fine. As per of the cost. My friend has a Traxxas, buggy (about 2 months old) He has gotten it repaired over 8 times. I still havn't gotten anything broken. I use the same terrain as he does........ Have you own a Smartech?

gmac4826

you can also use wd 40 or triflo if you want

IAMaxxer

This is a Smartech Clone Maxx


This is a T-Maxx


is it just me or do they look the same??? I will buy "brand name" products not rip-offs!!!

nitroman88

My Feedback: (5)

that smartech looks pretty cheesy

Blackjaxx360

My Feedback: (2)

DO NOT USE WD40!!!


After-run oil is to be a lubricant that has the ability to absorb moisture. WD40 just displaces it!! A good after run oil would be: 3-in1 Oil
Marvel Mystery Oil
Automatic Trans Fluid
These are good after run oils and are recommended by almost every RC enthusiast. Hope this helps!

Kimble275

Don't all pretty much have the same design inards?

No, they arn't top notch quality. But I paid 300$ Canadian for mine, I think that's a good price, compaired to the $420+ I would have paid for a "brand name". I'm not a hardcore junky like most. I don't plan on going off 20 foot jumps, and stuff, or go 60MPH+. I just like dirt courses, and trails, and gravel bumpy parking lots. Going around 25-35MPH.

dan1220

My Feedback: (2)

I would never buy smartech. Some guy on here bought a magic wheel ( i believe that is what they call the maxx clone) and he said maxx parts didnt fit. So what will you do when you break a part?

Kimble275

Take it to a place that fixes RC cars. Advancehobbies.com see if they can fix whatever I break, if they can't. I will order from manufacturer. www.smartech-europe.com

Ghostface

Word, I've got the Smartech Winner One Touring. $219 and smoking fools. Almost all the online hobby shops now have the Smartech part catalog online for part replacement.....

R/C car guy

i have heard many people say to use marvel mystery oil. most of those people say to mix a few drops of it in every tank of fuel.

sonnyboy7777

I own a new smartech Winner sport.this buggy rocks.break in was perfect,and it takes a beating,i've had a couple of flips and rolls and this baby just keeps on running.Now the parts issue,yes you cant go to your local hobby shop for parts,yes the most parts aren't interchangable with must cars.TOO BAD.This BABY ROCKS.I've had so much fun with this buggy since i've had it,and it takes a beating.Isnt that what you want from a NITRO.
Hey,if i need parts i'll just get them off the web and wait a couple of days and who's to say that the hobby shop will have the part for your NAME brand [sm=spinnyeyes.gif] on any givin day,I've been in the nitro hobby for eight years(active) 15 years(spectator)and i have seen cars and trucks but on the shelf for a week or so waiting for parts that local hobby shops didnt have at the time.Thanks for reading.Oh yeh,it must be something about this Smartech if RCCARACTION did an article about them,with a nice review,I believe it was the sept 2003 issue.Any way MY Winner Sport is a blast,and every body that i have let see it run seems to agree.Go ahead buy smartech.

rclooney

if they are half the price, buy 2. you have a full set of spares and you could modify one and keep the other as the origional.

Super.R/C.Freak

hey guys im new to this whole rc world well i did have a elec but you know there old. but anyways im getting a smartech car this tuesday i dont care if they are "cheap" cheap is good and plus its a first nitro car for me and if i like it ill buy a good brand one.i was thinking of getting a hyper 7 ive heard they take a huge beating well gtg im happy im getting my first car =) i might sleep till tuesday so i dont have to sit here and wait well cya all.

Super.

BaSh_2_tHa_mAxX

My Feedback: (1)

super rc freak im in brisbane queensland anyway i just think thats cool ................................. moving ive had a winner sport buggy and have trashed it a few times and have broken 2 things the car is great engine sucks[:'(] and when i break something i go to my lhs and order 2 new parts so i have 1 spare and i did break a servo only cos someone hit me at full ball[>:] but it was cool stuff any how i bought a new engine

BaSh_2_tHa_mAxX

My Feedback: (1)

o ok my bad that was a wrong pic any hoow i think this one is right nd that pic aint me im 14

ozzy9039

My Feedback: (6)

First let me start off by saying this. It is ok to give an opinion, but for all you idiots being so negative and bashing others is retarded! The guy likes Smartech, so what! Every profuct has its goods and bads! EVERY product. No matter the name! now.... onto the question. I also agree the only oil needed is what is in the fuel. And as far as "do not use WD40" well, if any of you out there own a Traxxas... in thier manual it states after run oil or WD40. Also it does the same as after-run oil. How do I know this? Simple physics. Water does not absorb oil, thus oil does not absorb water. So, while some of you guys are paying double the price for 1/4 of product I will continue to pay my price for a can 4-5times the size. As far as adding some marvel mystery oil in for every run as someone said..hmm...how does that work?

neap38

lol... you can tell most of these people who are saying negative stuff about the smartech haven't actually got one... Also maybe they should explain there opinions. Its called constructive criticism.

gmac4826

let's see...if i just ran my nitro and AFTER the RUN i wanted to OIL the engine, what do you think i would use? how about AFTER RUN OIL? stuff works great man, you should try it because not only does it oil the engine it...wait, thats about all it does. and wd40, it is great for removing rusty bolts and DISPLACING WATER hence the WD in W-D40 and thats it. nothing else. no where on the can does it say "this product is great for oiling nitro engines". so i think that we should all use after run oil to oil our engines and not to remove rusty bolts. as for wd40 (personally, i hate the stuff) use it if you need to remove a rusty bolt but not if you want to oil your engine.

besides, a bottle lasts forever and if you cant afford the fraction of a penny that it costs to oil your engine this hobby isnt for you.

As for me saying use wd40 above (posted about half a year ago) I was being sarcastic as that was the same time that there was a sudden rush of people oiling their engines with WD40 and the Official WD40 thread was created. Im sorry if any of your engines were damaged due to your stupidity.

BaSh_2_tHa_mAxX

My Feedback: (1)

kimble check out the smartech cars thread

dbow

My Feedback: (1)

I can't comment on Smartech products as I have not see, heard or read much about them. Just keep in mind that a lot of people on these forums give a opinion based on what they read and not what they have seen. I am not pointing the finger at anyone in the thread or anyone in particular but they are out there....you know who you are....lol
If you like the product then it is probably good stuff, make your mark on the forum and let everyone know your experience with Smartech and how good it is. That is the meat and potatoes on the forum...Experience.

When someone makes a claim it is always the right of the reader to call them on it and support it if they have not already. Lots of em like to get out here and bash and DO NOT have any experience and wont back up what they say.
In those cases you really do not need to say anything, just understand that its null to the forum.

Always look for "What happend with mine was" or "when I had that model" etc. Opinions are valuable too and excellent on certain topics.


As for the engine oil, I have used 3in1 oil for years and it seemed to work fine. I really never saw any ill effects from using it. I have also used the after run products, WD40 and various others with no changes or no differences in the results. So I could not honestly say that one is better than the other. Basically in my opinion from my experiences just about any of the products mentioned should serve you fine.

I recently switched over to liquid wrench as an after run oil and it seems to be working just like any other, 6 gallons on one plane engine and still running strong, and about 1 gallon or a little less on a new MT_12.
We will see how the long term goes, but I suspect there will be no issues.


Dbow

Codeblack

okokokok, back up... what is the bottom dead center piston position???
edit: is that when the piston travel feels pressurised and more resistant?

SAVAGEJIM

Bottom Dead Center (or BDC) is when the piston is at its lowest position nin the cylinder. Top dead center (or TDC ) is when the piston is at its highest.

TDC is when you will feel the most resistence due to two factors: One is that at TDC, the air is compressed to its highest density highest air mass to colume ratio) for the compression ratio of the engine in question. Two is that our nitro engines are built with a taper so that the sleeve physically pinches against the piston when the engine is cold.

TDC is therefore when you will feel the most resistance as the piston travels within the cylinder.