pyromatic177

i want to put this in my t-maxx with a jt racing hybrid chassis, so it will take a big block, it has a single speed tranny so i want a good top speed, but what i really want is it to do wheelies
please tell me what you guys think

HerrSavage

Losi 454 easy.

pyromatic177

i know thats what you think. but thats what im getting, the 454. do you have any breaking in and tuning tips

HerrSavage

OS #8 plug for break-in(or whatever the engine comes with).

1.) Mount the engine.
2.) Take out plug. Look down in engine, rotate flywheel to point where piston is at absolute bottom position. Scratch a small mark in your flywheel at 12:00. This way you know where bottom-dead-center is. The piston needs to be at this position during cool-down during break-in.
3.) Before starting, ideally wrap the cooling head in alu foil, and use a hair dryer to heat it up to 225F or so. Start the engine, monitor temps. You want the engine to be 200-230F. Slightly lean the HSN if necesary if it's just way too rich - which it may be at factory settings. Once you're got it so it's at least running, plop the car on the ground and drive around at no more than 1/4 throttle blips - vveeeerryyy slowly back and forth. Do this for a few minutes with the engine in that temp zone just over 200.
4.) Then, shut down engine. Rotate your flywheel to the scratch-at-12:00 position, and let the engine cool completely. Read a magazine or play with a yo-yo or whatever while it cools completely.
5.) Repeat ten times or so over 3-5 tanks. You may need to lean more or less, take off alu foil, or whatever it takes - the whole point is to get the temps up to 200-225 and let it cool completely, and to repeat 10 or so times. This is called heat cycling, and is the SOP for most people for break-in(though there are others..)

For the first half gallon after that start leaning it so it clears out the fuel and runs more crisply, but lay off full-throttle passes too much. Once half a gallon or so is through it, as long as temps and performance and sound and smoke and everything is alright, then IMO letter' rip... Once it's broken in, I recommend an OS A5/#10 plug for best performance - though the idle won't be as stable with a cold plug. IMO these SH engines make a good deal more power with a cold plug too. Run cooler too..

pyromatic177

ok great, but i got a good change of plans. i recently got a gift from someone. so the point is, is that i have around $200 to spend on a engine now .... so i was thinking of an lrp or picco, what do you think, should get the spec 3 or the X competition. or the picco

HerrSavage

The Picco some people say can make more power, but it's more for more experienced people who really know how to set it up right, break it in, tune it, etc.. The LRP and Losi(same engine, remember..) are more simple to set up(pipe and plug and fuel, etc..), break-in, tune, and run..

The Dynamite Big Red 28, Losi 454, or LRP Spec 3 would all be fine. Try a Picco if you'r confident about getting it running right.

I don't know how pipes work on TMAXXes, but a good pipe - JP-2 - to mate to a cheap Losi 454 might be an idea.. I wouldn't just go buy a more expensive engine cuz you have a few more bucks..

pyromatic177

from what you said there, i looked it up and out of the big red,454, and spec 3. the spec 3 has the best performance, its not alot more but it still the highest in power. and its only $30 more then the 454. and plus the spec 3 is a really nice looking engine

HerrSavage

The Spec 3 and Losi 454 are IDENTICAL.

Never pay attention to manufacturer performance claims for nitro engines.

But yes, the LRP is prettier.

pyromatic177

well i found a dyno of the spec 3 and it was impressive. but i think im going to get the lrp. i know i changed my mind 3 times now from .28rr 454 to lrp, but the lrp will go with the color scheme of my t-maxx. the orange head of the losi wouldnt go with purple and blue,,,lol

1QwkSport2.5r

Unless you're looking at dyno results using the engines you were looking at all tested on the same dyno, ignore the results. There is no industry standard to determine the power output of RC glow engines. Being that the LRP and Losi engines are made in the same factory by the same company and have the same parts internally, I'd go with the cheaper engine. That is unless you like to burn money.

I wouldn't buy an engine based on the color of the head, but thats just me.

pyromatic177

it was dyno results from a dyno machine, it came out to 1.87 hp. and i didnt know that that losi and lrp were the same company, just thought it was a copy of an lrp, not the exact same thing

djyjrlz

the engines are made by SH (i think?) and rebranded. if you want that engine with a blue head for significantly less than the lrp costs get the SH .28

1QwkSport2.5r

And also keep in mind most big block engines use head buttons so you can put a different head on the engine and not interfere with the compression radio or combustion chamber size/shape.

SH makes the Dynamite/Mach engines, LRP, XTM, and a few others. About the only discernable difference is the branding on the crankcase, and perhaps the port timing. I would have to get each of these engines in my hands and degree them to determine if the timing is identical or not.

pyromatic177

thats true, but how fast do you guysthink a .28 will go with a single speed tranny in a t-maxx,,,i though with the 24/7 i had in it that it was doing at least 40, but could be wrong

pyromatic177

well i ordered the engine yesterday,,, it should be awesome,,, cant wait to get it

1QwkSport2.5r

I cant say how fast it will go or should go. With the extra torque of a .28, you should be able to up the clutchbell by 2-4 teeth and drop your spur gear by 2-4 teeth to get a bit more top-end and keep the front end down at the same time. With a T-Maxx being 1/10th scale and light, it will spend more time on its lid than its tires if you don't re-gear it.

Snook Man

The JT Hybrid chassis uses a center differential as opposed to a transmission.

Unless its been modified to use a transmission you will need to use very heavy diff lube in the CD cup or you will not get the wheelies you are looking for.

mrsheldon

There all Team Associated engines they make SH,454,427,LRP,MACH.26.28 and others. Also with that chassis it's not going to wheelie. the chassis has a center diff not a spool. Change your ctr diff oil to a very heavy wt, or your front tires will balloon and slow the truck down.what gearing are you planning on using?Go with the 454 or the 427 Dynamite/Team Losi engine.heres my tmaxx/truugy

1QwkSport2.5r

Most of the Team Associated engines are actually made by Thunder Tiger Models in Taiwan. SH Engines is a different company. LRP, Mach/Dynamite, XTM, etc. are all made by SH and rebranded. I think SH is in Taiwan also, but I'd have to check. Not that it matters, really. I haven't ran a Thunder Tiger car engine myself, but I do have a TT .46 airplane engine and it is a fantastic running engine, with a really nice fit and finish. I have no problems with any of my SH based engines, namely 3 Mach .26's (2-427's and a M26SS) and 1 SH .28 P6. For a backyard basher they're fantastic. The .28's are a bit more thirsty for fuel than the .26's are. I get 2-4 minutes less run-time with my .28 than my .26. (7mm carb vs. 9.2mm carb)

I know very little about the T-Maxxes so I didnt know it uses a Center Diff. I suppose it would help if I read a little closer, also.

pyromatic177

i have a 15t clutch bell and a 64 spur i beleive,,,but man i really wanted to do wheelies with it, i mean yeah speed is fun but i also wanted wheelies

pyromatic177

wheres is the oil in the center diff, in that silver thing in front of the spur gear

HerrSavage

AE is only the distributor for LRP in the US I think. The Thunder Tiger engines from the MGT, ST-1, etc.. are not SH engines.

pyromatic177

so why wont the center diff make it do wheelies

Snook Man

 

There is a lot more to it than this, but here is a quick explanation.

 

A center differential has two output pinions/shafts compared to a transmission which has 1 solid shaft or spool. The two output shafts can work independently of each other by means of spider gears inside the diff cup. If you notice there will brakes on the front and the rear of the center differential. That is because you have to stop 2 independently moving shafts as compared to 1 solid shaft which would only need 1 brake setup like a standard transmission. Light wt oil/lube allows a very free action of the spider gears and a very independent action of the output pinions/shafts. Heavier oil/lube will tighten up the action of the spider gears and reduce the independent action of the outputs.

 

The center diff acts just like a limited slip front or rear diff. It will send the power to the wheels with the least amount of traction/grip. When you accelerate the rear squats, the front raises and with a light wt oil in the diff almost all the power will go to the front wheels because they now will have less traction than the rears which = no wheelies. The heavier the diff oil/lube you use in the diff cup the more locked the spider gears inside the diff cup become and power output from the center diff to the front and rear diffs become more equal in proportion to the wt of oil used.

 

Some 1/10^th scale diffs use 4 spider gears, others like 8^th scale use 6 and 8 spider gears.

More spiders’ means less wt oil can be used to obtain similar results as heavy wt oil and less spiders because there is more surface area of gear teeth to act against the oil wt.

 

Something as simple as plumbers putty or silly putty can be used in the diff cup or a very heavy diff lock lube to almost lock the spider gears together and act very similar to a solid output shaft to obtain the wheelies you are looking for with a center diff.

Some will go as far as filling the diff cup with JB-weld or epoxy to completely and permanently lock the center diff in effect making it a solid shaft/spool.

mrsheldon

+1 well said.