supertib

you are leaving a substantial amount of performance on the table by using that fuel........... compared to other race fuels that stuff stacks up very poorly...first is the claimed nitro content is not accurate...the 30% you use is closer to 25% nitro....On the dyno the OD fuels is one of the worst performing......As well it has the lowest threshold for detonation....it tends to detonate very easily under high loads........ If you switched to Werks fuel from using the OD it would feel like you just jumped another 10% on the nitro.............. That OD race fuel is nothing more then glorified RTR grade fuel...the nitro content is lower then advertised and the oil content is higher then advertised...side by side with other race fuels the OD is at the bottom of the barrel...................... if your doing the speeds your currently doing on the OD, you would see a substantial improvement switching to a more aggressive fuel like Werks............

proanti1

My Feedback: (2)

Wonderful PM I just received from the poster child of maturity, supertib.

savagecommander

yup. sitting high and mighty on his box of soap, willing to announce to the world how much better at life he is than everyone. so much for being "for the hobby"

controlliner

HerrSavage

I've had some of those..

Say, did I mention how awesome my LRP 30 was?

savagecommander

hows that compare to the O.S .30?

HerrSavage

Piles more power. Blows its doors off like a rapist on steroids.

(Whatever that means.. Sounds pretty awesomely mega-incredible though..)

Foxy

Following deletion of more posts...

The only reason I don't lock this thread now, is because the OP and a significant proportion of the following discussion is interesting and valuable. If I hear about ANY more PMs flying around, or have to delete another post in this thread, it will be locked and the perpetrator will be subject to administrative action. Patience and sympathy running really thin now.

HWM77

Hi Foxy
            Please dont lock this thread,i have all the F2A SPEED  flyers on board,better than Monty Python flick!!!Keep it up.

Foxy

I leave it in the hands of the members... How many pages of entertainment do the F2A speed flyers need!? lol

llkoolskillet

Neal so if I switched to Morgans team strike 30% or Werks 30% I could see more power? Would you say I could stand to gain a mph by switching?

I only have one more gallon left of the OD so I think Ill invest in some other fuel to continue the record runs

supertib

oh yes...you will see substantial differences...

downunder

Well F2A speed is very very serious stuff so they need some lightening up . They really know their stuff though and modified car engines are treated as beginner engines .

teriks

That hole would provide a substantial "vacuum" in the groove around the crankshaft, when running high rpm and small throttle openings.

Apart from that, I'm with downunder on crank sealing, pressures, and, a bearing should not be used as a seal.

supertib

Of course.....

tho I am unsure if you are implying that I think these bearings should be used as a seal tho.......As I have said nothing of the sort.......

supertib

I think you should get your head out of your own rectum my friend LOL.......

supertib

here is another engine that I have come thru recently...












And once again the engine failed the brake cleaner test till I blocked the little oil return port.....

savagecommander

Video?

1QwkSport2.5r

I wont argue that todays pre-mixed fuels, for the most part, are crap. The vast majority (NOT ALL) of these fuels, as said, is mostly synthetic. As sad as it is, castor oil is half the cost of most synthetics. Klotz is a very popular synthetic, and from my supplier by the gallon, is $40USD plus shipping of around $11. The castor oil I buy is Bakers AA grade and is $23 a gallon plus shipping. The $11 shipping cost is for a case up to 4 gallons. Just because synthetic oil is more expensive does NOT necessarily mean its better. I have been mixing my own fuel for all of my engines both airplane and car for the past 2 years. I run cheap RTR chinese car engines, some modified, and some not. None of those engines have the bypass behind the front bearing plugged and every one of my engines weeps oil from the front bearing. My airplane engines are either made in the US (K&B), Japan (Enya), or Italy (SuperTigre). These engines get a full castor diet regardless of what anyone else says I should use. They run great and are very reliable. I have not pulled the bearings out of any of my car engines as I have had no need to. My philosophy is if there is oil coming out of the front bearing, dirt isnt migrating in and the engine is receiving adequate lubrication. I have ran several different ratios of oil, from 100% castor to 80/20 synthetic/castor. I have settled on a 12% total content at a 50/50 ratio of Klotz/Castor. I needle my engines down as lean as possible at 1/3 tank (peak performance, no rpm sagging or cutting out). At a full tank they are pretty rich, but once you burn off that top 1/4 tank it cleans up and runs very well. I have a very different perspective on tuning and fuels because I am willing to sacrifice a few rpm to run the type of fuel of which the engines were designed to be run on. With the exception of YS 4-stroke aircraft engines, all other engines can only benefit from having castor in the fuel. If one adds castor to premixed off-the-shelf fuel and it doesnt mix or stay in suspension, then there is something else causing it to not mix or settle out of solution. If you dump castor into the jug and let it sit there, it will appear to not mix as it needs agitation to mix. Castor oil and methanol have an affinity for one another and they mix very readily. Only when you get into very high nitro contents will you have seperation issues (ie: 60% nitro and above). One can get around this, if one wants to run that much nitro, by adding a small amount of acetone to the fuel - something around 2% by volume is more than enough.

This is my opinion, which is based on my own experience, and wisdom I've acquired from some very intelligent and far more experienced modelers than myself. I'm glad that all modern RC car engines are ABC construction and not the "old school" lapped iron/steel construction or even bushed crank engines as these modern mostly synthetic fuels would have those "old school" engines ruined in short order because of thin viscosity synthetic oils do not have the film strength that thick viscosity oils have. Moreover, PAG oils are cheaper to produce, and do work well, but if ester based oils were more affordable in the US, one could run a full 100% synthetic ester based oil and have most of the qualities of castor in a pure synthetic package.

Sorry all of this is technically off the subject. On the subject, do you need to seal your engine? Probably not, if you're using fuel with enough castor. I think a 70/30 blend should be a minumum with that 30% of the total oil content being castor. Also, with that amount or more castor, there is no need to use any sort of after-run oil if you drop the piston to BDC so the ports are open and the nitro and methanol residue can evaporate and escape. I'll break an engine down one of these days and I'll post pics of one of my cheapie RTR engines that has run on my homemade fuel and see how it looks compared to the pictures of Neals engines. Other than the oil color being more of a honey color in my engine, they will look the same otherwise.

I dont like popcorn, so I'll grab a pizza instead. [8D] Happy modeling, folks.

teriks

Nah that was not my intention.
For ease of tuning and bearing life i think it's a good idea to plug that hole.
You _might_ see a small power loss from increased viscous friction thoug.

supertib

more nasty engine porn...this is a stock Werks B6 ..front bearing completely saturated with dirt.....

savagecommander

video?

proanti1

My Feedback: (2)

I'd like to see a video of both a 'clocked' engine and a stock engine take this test.

$50 says (that under a non biased test) both engines will 'fail'.

savagecommander

i'm in on that. maybe I'll post up pics of my front bearing "sucking dirt"

1QwkSport2.5r

I will say, in all 15 years of my modeling experience, I've never had a front bearing look like the ones pictured above. Even running Traxxas fuel way back in the beginning. Hmm. I don't plug my oil bypass either. Weird.

I guess the only problem I have encountered, is related to my airboat engines. My .90 tends to eat bugs. I found a mosquito stuck to the spraybar after a run at the pond once.