JohnP2

Hi alls.,
I have an OS engine (.25 truggy engine) that simplycannot be turned over by a starter box. I assure you I have tried everything aside from "de-pinching" the engine if that is even possible. It's across between having an insaneamount of pinch and a ****ty starter box (OFNATruggy)

To give youan idea of how ridiculous this is:

1. Everything charged, blah blah.
2, Took the engine off the car, removed the glow plug ANDheat sink
3. Heated the engined up until it glowed bright red.
4. Placed the engine on a vice grip and used channel locks wrapped in cloth....still could not even BUDGEthe fly wheel.
5. Placed it on the ****ty starter box for ****s and grins, and of course nothing.

Should I send the engine back to OS and tell them that it simply won't turn over. Guys, in the one year I've been involved with the hobby I've done everything with engines.I truly believe I have a defective engine as it simply won't turn over. It's almost like the sleeve and/or piston is the wrong size.

Understand, it is NOT seized. It WILLmove, but the "starting parts" will give out before it moves.

nitroexpress

Check your flywheel to engine case clearance.

supertib

Please contact me, I can help you...I guarantee there is something small being overlooked..

phmaximus

^ seriously call him, google Clockwork Racing Engines

proptop

My Feedback: (8)

I've got a feeling that if it's this hard to turn over on a starter box.....then the pull start assembly won't last long before something in it breaks.
If you haven't already, I agree w/ above guys, and give Neal a call...might save ya some fustration.. (smile and say Happy New Year )

FWIW, when I have encountered an extremely (squeaky ) tight engine...I would remove the glow plug (leave it out ) before anything else. Warm it up w/ heat gun...then dribble a little fuel in thru glow plug hole. Piston is at Bottom Dead Center (BDC )...here is where a fuel w/ some "extra" oil in it will help...I use 25% Nitro S&W fuel w/ synth/castor blend...12% total oil content. (I also have a special mix of 1st tank fuel that I add a little extra Castor to )
Spin the warm / lubed engine over w/o plug, on starter box for a few seconds to work in the oil...loosen it up a little...(make sure piston is at BDC before putting on starter box, so that you can get a "running start" at it...momentum will help carry it thru TDC )

Install plug but leave it about 1 turn loose to act as a compression release...then attempt to start it...be sure piston is at BDC.
Leave plug battery on for a while...and turn it to snug plug...then after half a minute or so, remove battery then tighten plug w/ wrench...(hopefully the engine is running of course... ) HTH


One more thing...those Tamiya connectors are rather high resistance...I replace mine with Deans connectors...makes a BIG difference. AND carefully solder the connections to motors. (don't heat soak, or you might damage motor endbell/brush holders )

I know this hasn't helped you much with describing how to convert to pull start...but I think you will get past this current "hurdle" and you'll eventually be glad you didn't convert it to a pull start.



Pardon the P.S. (a "middle aged geezer" flashback here ) The very early production K&B 6.5 SRII Formula 1 pylon engines were so tight that they could get stuck at TDC and fail the rod...guys were trying to run them like a ringed engine.
At a symposium in Syracuse N.Y. in the mid 70's to induct Hal "Pappy" Debolt into the Model Aviation Hall of Fame, we were given the pleasure of a talk, on Break-In of the then new, "mass produced" ABC p/l engines by George Aldrich (look him up...quite an interesting Bio )......that lesson has paid off in many times since then.

JohnP2

Thanks, guys. So the latest is I can get it turned over for a few seconds (I heard some "life" earlier), but the starter box batteries are running low and need charging. It's still difficult to turn-over, but I chock that up lto it being a new engine, and perhaps I might have hydro-locked it a little. I removed the plug and was able to run it for a few seconds in attempt to de-flood it, but who knows. Regardless, I know I'd be able to better troubleshoot with a pull-start, but it is what it is. Now just waiting for the batteries to charge, and we'll see.

This is exciting as I've put a LOT into this build.  Even today at my LHS, all the workers were ooohing and ahhhing over this ride. A year ago almost to the day, one of them made a snarky comment on my Exceed Forza. I felt like sayaing "How ya like me now?" but refrained. :-) Hopefully that will bring me good karma and I can start this thing in 2012! ;-)

proanti1

My Feedback: (2)

Be sure to loosen the plug about a turn when you start a new motor.

AnthonyMartello

Hello Community,

There are several differences between marine engines and airplane engines. First, marine engines are usually water-cooled. Second, marine engines require a special "flywheel" and "coupler" to connect and start the engine. Third, due to the high performance nature, most boat motors are designed for this application and usually have ball-bearings. There are two ways to start marine engines—one is a starting belt; the other is a pull start system located on the engine. The main difference is the placement of the engine. The outboard is mounted directly on the transom; the inboard is mounted inside the hull.

Best Regards,
AnthonyMartello
xkglow[dot]com

1QwkSport2.5r

Forgive me, but what relevance does this have to the topic of this thread?? You're not telling us anything we don't already know, but more importantly doesn't pertain to R/C car engines at all.

Car-Tune

My 18tz does the same. I couldn't start it with my box. Borrowed my friends box with 2 motors, plugged it to a car battery and problem solved.