what engine is this exactly?
11-11-2015, 07:54 AM
#1
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what engine is this exactly?
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Last edited by grabbem88; 11-11-2015 at 07:56 AM.
11-13-2015, 08:29 AM
#8
If it's still got good bearings and piston/liner fit, it should run for awhile barring running it too hard. Not a total powerhouse, but they run pretty well and at least for me hold a tune pretty well. I've had several SH variants over the years and have never worn one out yet.
11-13-2015, 08:55 AM
#9
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The story I got from prior owner was the motor had its break in and on the last tank of tuning the guy went to pull plug out and stripped it so he put an axial head on it and sold the truck to me for $45 bucks.
Electric is what I do but it's getting boring....if this truck becomes a go to rig then it's onto 2-stroke! :-)
Electric is what I do but it's getting boring....if this truck becomes a go to rig then it's onto 2-stroke! :-)
11-15-2015, 01:11 PM
#12
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Ok need help and a baseline..
I hate buying Frankenstein trucks..
Floor it....cuts out and some times dies
Starting has become hit and miss..
If both screws lsn hsn countered out to max it runs actually great and can floor it pop wheelies
Thanks for any help
I hate buying Frankenstein trucks..
Floor it....cuts out and some times dies
Starting has become hit and miss..
If both screws lsn hsn countered out to max it runs actually great and can floor it pop wheelies
Thanks for any help
11-15-2015, 02:54 PM
#13
Base starting point for the low speed needle is to have the screw head for the needle flush with the outside of the throttle valve of the carburetor. The high speed needle is usually 3-5 turns out from lightly seated.
Cutting out when you jab the throttle to side open from idle means your idle needle is too lean. If you open the throttle to WOT and it revs up some and cuts out, the high speed is too lean. Always set the high speed needle first - start rich and work leaner until you get no better top speed, then back off rich about 1/8 turn. Set your idle needle so it throttles up nice and cleanly after idling for about 15 seconds. It's good practice to do a nice long WOT pass between each adjustment so you can listen to the sound the engine makes. The sound of the engine will tell you what adjustments the engine needs though it takes some time to "get the ear" for it.
Cutting out when you jab the throttle to side open from idle means your idle needle is too lean. If you open the throttle to WOT and it revs up some and cuts out, the high speed is too lean. Always set the high speed needle first - start rich and work leaner until you get no better top speed, then back off rich about 1/8 turn. Set your idle needle so it throttles up nice and cleanly after idling for about 15 seconds. It's good practice to do a nice long WOT pass between each adjustment so you can listen to the sound the engine makes. The sound of the engine will tell you what adjustments the engine needs though it takes some time to "get the ear" for it.
11-15-2015, 08:11 PM
#15
You may have a 3-needle carburetor by the sounds of it. See pictures below. Screw under HSN is the midrange adjustment. Rarely adjusted. Second picture is the idle mixture needle. That one you will adjust.
11-16-2015, 09:46 AM
#18
Nitro isn't for everyone, but keep in mind you're not dealing with a brand new machine. Getting something second hand leaves a lot of questions. That engine could be worn out and given the cylinder head has been changed - who knows what else could be amiss with it. RC car engines can be sketchy when buying used IMO.
Sorry youre having trouble with it.
Sorry youre having trouble with it.
11-16-2015, 10:32 AM
#19
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No biggie and thanks for helping
It has potential just not with this engine And it quit starting idling
New pull cord already messed up too so I'm bailing before it gets worse
It has potential just not with this engine And it quit starting idling
New pull cord already messed up too so I'm bailing before it gets worse
11-16-2015, 10:43 AM
#20
Yeah, for some reason the pull starters don't last on the bigger engines. My old Mach .26 had a pull start that crapped out not long after getting the truck (new). Converting to the Losi Spin starter cured that problem.
11-17-2015, 08:20 AM
#22
Some guys think the SH based engines are junk and talk them down, but for a budget engine, I find them to be good engines. I haven't had any issues with them personally. Engines made by SH and sold under different names are XTM, Mach/Dynamite/Team Losi, LRP, and even their own SH brand. I've had several Mach engines and an SH. I've had to change bearings in a couple of them, but only after many gallons of fuel. If you want to spend a bit more money, Picco and Novarossi make a really nice engine.
11-17-2015, 09:20 AM
#23
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Took it apart...pretty simple and basic 2 stroke concept...
No scoring or groove wear.
But it was wet around 1 way that gasket and silicone was flakey and wet brittle too
Now on the crankshaft there is a groove towards flywheel is there supposed to be a o ring There?
Carb o rings look bad as well
So I think I had some major air leaks and running pig rich was the only way to get it running
I might be wrong but it's worth a try to reseal it and try again
Also the bottom screw under Hsn how do I reset it?
And could this carb be suspect as well
No scoring or groove wear.
But it was wet around 1 way that gasket and silicone was flakey and wet brittle too
Now on the crankshaft there is a groove towards flywheel is there supposed to be a o ring There?
Carb o rings look bad as well
So I think I had some major air leaks and running pig rich was the only way to get it running
I might be wrong but it's worth a try to reseal it and try again
Also the bottom screw under Hsn how do I reset it?
And could this carb be suspect as well
11-17-2015, 10:21 AM
#24
Took it apart...pretty simple and basic 2 stroke concept...
No scoring or groove wear.
But it was wet around 1 way that gasket and silicone was flakey and wet brittle too
Which gasket?
Now on the crankshaft there is a groove towards flywheel is there supposed to be a o ring There?
No.
Carb o rings look bad as well
So I think I had some major air leaks and running pig rich was the only way to get it running
I might be wrong but it's worth a try to reseal it and try again
Also the bottom screw under Hsn how do I reset it?
From what I have found, that midrange screw is set so the head of the screw is flush with the outside of the carb body. Roughly 3-3 1/4 turns from seated.
And could this carb be suspect as well
No scoring or groove wear.
But it was wet around 1 way that gasket and silicone was flakey and wet brittle too
Which gasket?
Now on the crankshaft there is a groove towards flywheel is there supposed to be a o ring There?
No.
Carb o rings look bad as well
So I think I had some major air leaks and running pig rich was the only way to get it running
I might be wrong but it's worth a try to reseal it and try again
Also the bottom screw under Hsn how do I reset it?
From what I have found, that midrange screw is set so the head of the screw is flush with the outside of the carb body. Roughly 3-3 1/4 turns from seated.
And could this carb be suspect as well
11-17-2015, 10:49 AM
#25
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The o ring style And I never knew the 1 way cover was made of delerin plastic
I think all the o rings are junk as well concerning the hsn and lsn needles.
Not giving up just yet on this...when I did get it running it was a rocket and stable
I think all the o rings are junk as well concerning the hsn and lsn needles.
Not giving up just yet on this...when I did get it running it was a rocket and stable