holson

So I bought a used Kyosho 1:9 Toyota 4Runner RV


It comes with this engine:



I managed to run it for a few minutes and it ran great.

BUT, I'd like to rebuild (reseal) it since it leaks a good amount of of oil from the front oil seal.

I took the back plate off and realized that the crankshaft is not ball-raced - do you guys think replacing them with ball bearings (sealed one for the front) will help (if that's even possible?), or should I just forget about it and get a newer engine if cleanliness is what I'm after?

I'll post pictures of the internals later.

Thanks!
Holson

JB COMP

I'd go with a new engine, both bearings are probably going to be around $20.00 for the rear and $15.00 for the front. But who knows how long till something else goes out on it.

You can get a .15 - .18 roto carb side exhaust engine for $50.00 - $100.00, ones like these

http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXFYN7&P=0
http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXBZ30&P=0
http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXXF90&P=0
http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXTNB7&P=0
http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXFCD3&P=0


There more expensive one's like the OS 18CV-RV http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...&I=LXGGP7&P=SM for $109.99

You just have to make sure what style crank you have.

holson

JB COMP

Thanks for the reply - I looked at the links that you sent me. I want the OS CV since I had always had good luck with OS engines (OS .21 RZ-B, .15LD-X, FS-26SC). They were all very easy to tune, holds tune and ran very well. But the Tower hobbies engine comes with muffler and all, seems like really good value.

Alternatively, I have kyosho pureten with a GS-11R. I don't use that car much, I may just take the engine and ebay the chassis.

My only reason for preserving the GS-11 is the car's drivetrain.. it just seems fragile. I feel that a powerful motor would break something.

Here's a shot of the internal from the back plate



The bushing seems to be a size that cannot be replace with a ball bearing....

pythonfan

My Feedback: (1)

jb, first things first not one of those motors will just bolt up, kyosho puts all there mounts in the case, meaning he would need to find the optional motor mount for that car... and that would be a task in it self.

holson, that was a great find, its in amazing condition man. the engine looks good, there's nothing wrong with a thin coat of oil, and from the looks it looks to have been already sealed. for the internals you would have to check ebay or know the exact part number and try it in google. now on the con rod i would not put a bearing in there for the fact, that, if the bearing comes apart you will have a mess on your hands, why do you think all the top motors still use bushings? its a lot safer and stronger.

now the front seal, do you mean the front bearing then its probably worn out and that's why its leaking, for that all you would need is a new bearing. if you can find the size of it I'm sure there are plenty of sites that will have the bearing for it.

pythonfan

My Feedback: (1)

did a little googling and found this for you

http://www.kyosho.com/jpn/support/in...11_gs11r_m.pdf

holson

pythonfan,

Thanks for the reply.

You are right - if I replace the engine with an OS-equivalent (most of those are), I would need the motor mounts from just about any Kyosho GP-10 derivative really (SuperTen, PureTen, GP10, etc.). It was easy a few years back... but not anymore.

I should've clarified - I meant to just replace the two bearings that support the crankshaft not the little bushing that for the conrod/crankshaft pivot point

this is where it leaks (highlighted area) - fairly typical of these engines I'd say but I don't remember the ball-raced GS11R leaking like that.



I guess I can just wait until I get my GS11R back but I just enjoy rebuilding these things, thought I could replace the crankshaft bearings and make a ball-raced classic GS11 heh

thanks for the manual too, I think if I find a used GS11R I could probably take bits and pieces of it and make a good hybrid motor ??

JB COMP

sorry, don't know much about Kyosho stuff.


holson, that little stream of oil in the last picture, is fine my maxx does the same thing.

holson

I guess I should just live with it. It's just that some of the engines I've had were very clean in this regard (Novarossi CX-12, the various OS's)

Maybe I should just seal it back up and leave it be

The_Collector

If that engine runs okay, leave it alone. There isn't much available for early GS11. The later GS11, as shown in the .pdf link Python provided, is different.

I have an O.S. .12 CV-X (standard) on a 1/9 Pathfinder I have. It's the most power I would try to put through the CVT. They aren't geared for high speed, so anything more is just taking a risk.

holson

The_Collector

Thanks for the reply - good to hear that someone's got a running 1/9 pathfinder.

I'm just gonna seal it back up and clean it then. I'll wait until my brother brings back my Pureten and put the GS11R in the truck.

Out of curiosity though, while on the 1/9 subject:
1) What oil did you put in the CCVT transmission, I was going to put 30WT silicone oil
2) What radio are you using for it? I was going to get the Futaba 4GWD, model memory and all so I can use it for other cars.
3) Any pictures??

Rgds,

The_Collector

I might sell it soon, as a means of downsizing a bit. It will be tough to let it go.

Using a very light silicon oil. Probably 20 or 30. I have a Hitec Ranger 3 on it with JR servos. That might change if I plan on running it more often, to the Futaba you mentioned. I am partial to Futaba, not that the Hitec hasn't worked well up to this point, though.

Pics? You got em'.

Spetz

What's that box with CCVT on it? is it a gearbox??

These things are ultra cool I wish I had one

Anyway, I just bought bearings from http://stores.ebay.com.au/Bearing-Brothers for 6 USD for an OS engine as opposed to about 35-40 USD they go for at hobby shops. Of course these ebay ones aren't genuine but I was willing to try for the huge price difference

Alternatively, if you're worried about power etc, you can probably find standard .12 size motors from Tamiya cars (like the TG10) which I hear is a reliable OS built motor + has very little power

The_Collector

The CCVT isn't a 'regular' gearbox. It has variable speed capability, for forward and reverse. The third channel on the radio controls the selector, through a servo connected to a linkage on top of the CCVT unit. I have never had one apart. The exploded view of the CCVT is an eyefull by itself. Replacement parts are just about non-existant. The box on my CCVT leaks, so I top it every time it gets run.

Spetz

Wow that is impressive. It's like in real cars, a Constantly Variable Transmision
What gear range does it have? ie, from what ratio to what ratio?

holson

Thanks for the info and pictures.

Which part of the gearbox does oil leak out of?

Looks like I'll just run it with the leaky GS11 for now until I find a suitable replacement engine. The .15CVX would probably shred the CCVT, which I do not want to do. The gears inside it (lots of em) are all plastic and very fine.

I like the Tamiya engine idea too, I'll look into it.

Thanks,
Holson

The_Collector

The very bottom, near one of the corners. Looks like a weak point from the factory. All of the fluid will leak out, if given enough time.
The .12 Tamiya engines are the same as the old-school HPI engines (AKA Toki, I think). Whatever it is, you don't want anything too radical. Keep it .12 or less with conservative porting.