slayerphonics

Looks like that CRF crank really makes a difference, nice looking motor.

some reason my images where upside down.. fixing that now

supertib

Picco powa !

JB COMP

That's a really weird looking crank[&:]

Colt4g63

Thats a CRF crank for ya there.. wild looking but a good design. And yes PICCO POWA!!!!

JB COMP

Is that what the new evo 3 crank looks like?

Colt4g63

No thats a CRF thing. The EVO 3 cranks looks the same as the EVO 2.

HerrSavage

I've read that the Evo 3 is just the same as the Evo 2 but with a newer better carb??

I saw a bunch of these Orion CRF's running over the last weekend. They totally shred.. One of these in an RC8T is an awesome thing to behold..

Do any of you engine freaks know anything about the new LRP 21X/Nosram 21RR?? Could they be the same as the Orion, or are they just the same as the normal Picco Evo 3??

I want a new race 21, and of all the dozens of trucks I saw over the last few days, the Nosram 21 RR(identical to LRP 21 X I think..) just blew me away the most.. The Orion was right up there though.. The Nosram though was in an RC8T with 2063 pipe, and the Orion was in an ST-RR which had some set-up issues, so not really a fair comparison. That RC8T with Nosram was simply ballisitc though. There were two of them too - so it wasn't a fluke. Both were just bonkers. I'm looking to get exactly that combo. Just need to figure out now if the Orion or Nosram/LRP is worth the extra €100 over the Picco Evo 3...

supertib

there have been some sleeve timing changes as well as the newer style carb.. I am unsure if the European versions get the newer carb or not, or if its a OFNA only change..IMO the newer carb is less desirable then the older carb....

HerrSavage

This is what "our" Evo 3 looks like.

http://cgi.ebay.de/Picco-P7-R-EVO-3-Sirio-Ninja-Rex-Novarossi-RB-R-B_W0QQitemZ230286845118QQcmdZViewItem?hash=item230 286845118&_trkparms=72%3A1276|39%3A1|66%3A2|65%3A12|240%3A13 18&_trksid=p3286.c0.m14

I also asked some of the Orion/Nosram drivers if they had carb issues. They just looked at me like "heh??" (Though the older Evo 2 and Picco 28's definitely have a rep for junk carbs.. Not looking to discuss that now - just to determine if this Evo 3 has a different carb...)

The Orion costs €300, the LRP €330, but I could maybe haggle around and find one for €280. Anyway, the price difference is significant.... I've heard enough to believe the normal Picco 21 Evo 2 is a ripper. I just want to know if I could expect the kind of performance I witnessed in that RC8T with the Nosram 21RR....

supertib

without me holding each of these engines I can only speculate, as a history I have seen mild differences in timing between all the Picco variants ... Not huge differences, but enough to influence the characteristics of the motors.... from what I know the EVO 3 is tuned to have a smoother bottom and a stronger top end as opposed to the EVO 2... the EVO 3 is likely tuned to be better on open Euro style tracks...... But as a rule all the variants are extremely strong performers so you likely cannot go wrong any way you choose.....

supertib

Its finally nice that you have seen a Picco 21 run...I have been watching these Picco .21's own the tracks for the last 15 months, i tried telling everyone they are the fastest .21's but nobody believed me...People were convinced I was telling them a bunch of lies...anyways its finally nice to see the truth start coming out.......Can you imagine how competitive a pullstart DPM 21 would be next to one of these Picco 21's ? or even a LRP Spec 3 ?

anyways its all good !!!!!

JB COMP

supertib, I've seen a picco P7R Evo2 at my local track a few months back and it was kind of slow compared to the other engines, but I just took it as the driver was scared of the throttle and didn't know how to drive [8D]

After all seeing you're modded Picco's I know what picco can really do

HerrSavage

I've never doubted that the Piccos were fast. I just doubted that I wanted to get into competitive racing. That has kind of changed...

But yes, seeing them live is something else..

Not sure, but I think that purple-headed Evo 3 has a standard head - it's purple cuz it's supposedly specially made for the German market. Before, the Evo 2 was also only available as a standard head. You had to buy the turbo head separate..

Waiting on an offer out of England for the LRP 21 X....

supertib

my first EVO 2 came with both a standard and a turbo button..... but then they just went and switched them all to standard !!! I am unsure why they did that, as the turbo motors do run nicer IMO.....however the JPX motors come only as turbo

Colt4g63

Yea that did suck when they started only coming with the standard buttons. I always ran the turbo buttons on my EVO 2s. Might have been a $ thing... Ofna sells these engines SO CHEAP IMO for there quality that I guess they had to cut corners somewhere.

HerrSavage

Sorry if this is too off-topic, but how would the Sirio Evo 4 Kanai S21 compare to the Orion CRF/Picco 21?? THink I have what seems like a good offer in combo with an RC8T....

supertib

I had 2 Sirio CL7B STI engines snap the crank on me...

HerrSavage

A German dude just told me be wary of Sirio cuz of quality problems, and a search here, a search there didn't do much to convince me.. So so much for that... Thanks..

(Rushing this btw cuz whatever I get I want it soon so I can get it broken in before the next race in two weeks...)

slayerphonics

Super tib isn't telling the whole story,

We run sirios at our track, nobody has ever broken a crank and the engines last for a while, honestly its been the best engine i've run, super easy to tune, one of the best carbs out. Only time i've heard of broken cranks is in supers modded sirio

Supertib broke those cranks on the engines he modded,

HerrSavage

Hey, it's all good.. I think I've heard everything I need to hear at this point, and now I feel like I know what I want - and what I want is what got me so psyched up in the first place - the Nosram 21RR with 2063. Saw it, loved it, gonna' get it.

(would take the Orion CRF though if the right deal came up, but doesn't seem like it will... The Nosram has the cheapest branding of all these engines it seems..)

supertib

dude the Sirio's broke where they were overmilled, i had nothing to do with that area of the crank.....Sirio left less then 1 mm of material at the end of the crank leaving it weak and brittle....the modding had nothing to do with the breakage






with all durability issues aside the Sirio is no match for the Picco engines, it has a very weak bottom end and is very hard on fuel..The Picco absolutely skunks the Sirio in any sort of performance shootout......

supertib

Now Slayer I dont know what your problem is but your constantly coming after me


did you ever consider ho0w many engines I Modify and run, how many people around the world run my engines ? I have modified RB, NInja, GRP, OS, PIcco, Novarossi, AXE Rossi, Radical, Sirio etc etc...and the only motor to snap cranks is the Sirio's, 2 CL7B snapped the cranks in the exact same area, an area I never even touched.... Now if i am at fault here why dont all my other motors snap their cranks ? I dont see any of my Picco's snapping the cranks, neither with my RB's, or NInja's or OS ..in fact the only other motors I have seen snap cranks is STS............ So regardless if the motors snapped due to the extra RPM from modding they are still a weaker crank then every other brand of quality engine you can buy as none of those other cranks are snapping

maoy

Hey guys, got a question. I have been into nitro rc for 2 years now. I just recently purchased an Orion .21 onroad CRF REV for my RS4 (1/10 scale). The engine has 2 needle settings. I have the high speed needle at factory settings of 4 turns out and low speed needle at 5 turns out. I am running O'donnell 20% rtr fuel along with a Novarossi 6 medium turbo plug. I made sure everything was in place. I flush out the engine with fuel, then primed the engine. After that, I heated up the engine. Once heated, I bump started the engine. It started nicely but idles high. For break-in, you must keep the idle high so I left the engine as is. I let the car sit for a while so the engine can warm up and break itself in. After that, I let the car move around slowly on the ground. However, the engine temp started rising. I let the car sit and the engine temp just kept going up. Next thing I know, the engine started screaming and overheated. I immediately cut fuel to the engine. I don't understand why it would overheat with factory settings. I let the engine sit for a while and then proceed to restart the engine. The engine started nicely again but idles high. I let the car just sit and again, the temp just kept rising. Then, it overheated and the engine screamed. I cut the fuel to the engine and the engine screamed even louder before cutting out. I don't understand why. Can you help me? any suggestions? I read the tuning suggestions Brian from Team Orion wrote for the wasp .12. I understand how to break in engine but I didn't do anything on this engine and it already overheated. Afterwards, I tried starting the engine and it would not start. It is strange because the needles are set rich. I am thinking there might be an air leak as Brian had mentioned in the tuning guide. However, I have experienced air leaks in the past and the engine usually don't overheat during idle. If there is an air leak, usually the engine will bog down during high speed run. Well, let me know what you guys think.

kochj

I was reading through this post expecting info on this engine... and Nothing!!!! ***?

Maoy.............

To help you with you question I would say this it is you

1. Idle needle... I would counter/clock wise it out half a turn........

If a idle needle is closed down too much then ... walah!! It will over heat by just siting there idling.

OR.....

2. Idle needle.....
Pull it out and make sure the o-rings are there, and not pinched or deformened in anyway....



Let me know if this is it...