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-   -   keeping it running (http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/car-nitro-gas-engines-269/11241683-keeping-running.html)

gcoad76 09-26-2012 09:47 AM

keeping it running
 


i have a hpi rs4 2 w/ 15nitro fe, i recently did some porting work on the sleeve. when i reassembled the engine i made sure to seal the backplate, the carb and checked everything for air leaks. i am sure that there are no leaks. i also replaced the clutch bell and clutch shoes. I relized that the clutch shoes were not in properly so i fixed that problem. all these issues were dealt with because i could not keep the engine at idle. after days of reading threads on how to tune. i have tried evey suggestion i have read.i am now having a problem keeping the engine at idle. i have the needle valve at 2 turns out. that seems to be where it runs the best. i have tried the needle valve at 2 1/2 turns and very varyation in between. Now i run the car and it dies after about 2 min of running, then it wont start for about 15 min after. i have a new glow plug and a fresh charge on the ignitor. i dont know what else to do. is it because this hpi engine set up has no low speed needle? oh the gap is around 1 mm on the carb. i am very frustrated befor i took it apart i had some problems keeping idle but the engine ran good. it has always died after i went from full throtle to brake for a turn. is this .15 engine ready for the garbage? it has good compression. maybe i need to spend the money i dont have and buy that os cv</p>

nitroexpress 09-26-2012 03:35 PM

RE: keeping it running
 

Quote:

ORIGINAL: gcoad76



i have a hpi rs4 2 w/ 16 nitro fe, i recently did some porting work on the sleeve. when i reassembled the engine i made sure to seal the backplate, the carb and checked everything for air leaks. i am sure that there are no leaks. i also replaced the clutch bell and clutch shoes. I relized that the clutch shoes were not in properly so i fixed that problem. all these issues were dealt with because i could not keep the engine at idle. after days of reading threads on how to tune. i have tried evey suggestion i have read.i am now having a problem keeping the engine at idle. i have the needle valve at 2 turns out. that seems to be where it runs the best. i have tried the needle valve at 2 1/2 turns and very varyation in between. Now i run the car and it dies after about 2 min of running, then it wont start for about 15 min after. i have a new glow plug and a fresh charge on the ignitor. i dont know what else to do. is it because this hpi engine set up has no low speed needle? oh the gap is around 1 mm on the carb. i am very frustrated befor i took it apart i had some problems keeping idle but the engine ran good. it has always died after i went from full throtle to brake for a turn. is this .15 engine ready for the garbage? it has good compression. maybe i need to spend the money i dont have and buy that os cv</p>
Engine runs
Porting done
Engine doesn't run.
Another one hits the dust.

1QwkSport2.5r 09-27-2012 02:42 AM

RE: keeping it running
 
If the engine always died going to idle from wot, and wouldn't idle before, and still won't idle now, either the throttle linkage is not adjusted properly or the carb is dirty.

What exactly was done to the liner? Pictures?

controlliner 09-27-2012 04:50 AM

RE: keeping it running
 
If this engine runs for 2 minutes and dies, then starts and runs after a cool down, the engine is worn out.

gcoad76 09-27-2012 12:37 PM

RE: keeping it running
 
1 Attachment(s)
by liner do you mean the sleeve here r sum pics, i also included pics of the carb gap closed and wide open.i also read somethings about fuel i have traxxas 20 % the fuel is just over a month old and i keep it stored in a cool dark area. i also make sure the air is mostly out. will diffrent fuel make a diffrence for the idle problem, should i go to 30 %. i have a new glow plug but im not exactaly sur what type it is i have included a pic of that as well. this car was bought aroun 2000, it hadnt even had a gallon ran thru it then it sat for about10 or11 years and i dont think that it was put up w after run oil put in it. i also see that there is wear on the inside of the sleeve just on one side twards the top.it was mentioned that the carb might b dirty. i just cleaned the entire engine after the sleeve work. and there is also a brand new air cleaner, it is oiled correctly. i am thinking that the motor is just slap wore out and its time to purchase a new one. as i am unemployed, this is going to be a long wait till i can afford a replacement. i read that a os cv-rx is the best bang for the buck. so in ending thank you for your help and i hope i get what i need soon as i love this hobby and nitro is so much more fun than electric. again thank you

gcoad76 09-27-2012 01:11 PM

RE: keeping it running
 
1 Attachment(s)
here are the pics of the wear on the inside of the sleeve, the exhaust side is normal, its just like that in that area of the sleeve

1QwkSport2.5r 09-27-2012 04:36 PM

RE: keeping it running
 
The port work doesnt look like it would cause any problems unless you changed the size of the ports. These engines are not real "pinchy" to start with, so there is a good possibility that it is indeed worn out as controlliner said. The test would be to compare the compression with the engine cold, and then with the engine warm. If it feels a lot softer when hot, so much so that its very easy to turn over by hand, then it is worn out and in need of replacement.

The Traxxas fuel is crap, change to a better brand. Use a hot or medium temp glow plug.

If the engine is worn out, I would spend the money on a Picco engine before I bought an OS. I am not a fan of OS. SH/LRP/Mach/Dynamite engines are also decent bang for the buck engines.

Just my 2 cents.. Good luck.

SLAYERDUDE 09-27-2012 05:18 PM

RE: keeping it running
 

Quote:

ORIGINAL: controlliner

If this engine runs for 2 minutes and dies, then starts and runs after a cool down, the engine is worn out.
THIS.

I have a .15FE and they were crap to start with, mine came in an HPI 4X4 MT1 that a guy I know bought because it "ran great when the guy sold it to me"...:eek:
Soon as I got ahold of it I knew the pinch was shot when I pulled it over, but I entertained him and predicted it would run for lees than 5 minutes regardless of how much tuning I did, thean after it cooled it would rinse and repeat, guess what...;)

Picked it up for $30 and put a G3.0 in it that I got in trade, stoopid fast now.

With the toasted .15FE that came in it.
[youtube]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ru3C0TKlgL4[/youtube]


With the G3.0 installed and Blitz RTR wheels/tires.

[youtube]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nKL6hhKEr-I[/youtube]

1QwkSport2.5r 09-27-2012 06:08 PM

RE: keeping it running
 

Quote:

ORIGINAL: SLAYERDUDE


Quote:

ORIGINAL: controlliner

If this engine runs for 2 minutes and dies, then starts and runs after a cool down, the engine is worn out.
THIS.

I have a .15FE and they were crap to start with, mine came in an HPI 4X4 MT1 that a guy I know bought because it ''ran great when the guy sold it to me''...:eek:
Soon as I got ahold of it I knew the pinch was shot when I pulled it over, but I entertained him and predicted it would run for lees than 5 minutes regardless of how much tuning I did, thean after it cooled it would rinse and repeat, guess what...;)

I got one of these engines from a friend of mine, in pieces. The rear bearing fell apart. Funny thing is, the engine has never run. The piston and liner look new, not a single scratch on it. The conrod is solid bronze, which surprised me. The liner does not have much pinch, I doubt they had much to start with. Mine is ABN. It has "Made in Japan" on it, I wonder if its made by Toki or OS. I'm not sure of any other Japanese manufacturers that make car engines. Its certainly not made by Enya.

I'm going to get a cheap set of bearings for it and try sticking an airplane prop on it and try flying it. It serves no other purpose to me. The only part I dont have for this engine is the flywheel.


SLAYERDUDE 09-27-2012 06:34 PM

RE: keeping it running
 
Lol I had to go look because I still have this engine in a coffee can, yes the rod is solid ?bronze and looks like a bone in your leg...
If you want me to see if the brg's are OK in mine I'll send you the whole thing for the price of shipping, I did take a dremel to the sleeve just for fun and never tried to assemble or run it like that.

1QwkSport2.5r 09-27-2012 06:40 PM

RE: keeping it running
 

Quote:

ORIGINAL: SLAYERDUDE

Lol I had to go look because I still have this engine in a coffee can, yes the rod is solid ?bronze and looks like a bone in your leg...
If you want me to see if the brg's are OK in mine I'll send you the whole thing for the price of shipping, I did take a dremel to the sleeve just for fun and never tried to assemble or run it like that.
If they've been sitting long, they're probably not worth using. Just for S&G's, I'm in zip 55016. If shipping would be more than $3, I'll just order some cheapies from AvidRC.. Most if not all of their bearings are $1 apiece.

SLAYERDUDE 09-27-2012 08:30 PM

RE: keeping it running
 
The $20+ shipping price exceeds the value real quick there lol.
Besides the fact that the crank is now seized to the brgs.:D
That's a cottage cheese container that will just stay in the archives as a fond memory.:D

1QwkSport2.5r 09-28-2012 02:47 AM

RE: keeping it running
 

Quote:

ORIGINAL: SLAYERDUDE

The $20+ shipping price exceeds the value real quick there lol.
Besides the fact that the crank is now seized to the brgs.:D
That's a cottage cheese container that will just stay in the archives as a fond memory.:D
Indeed. :D[8D]


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