Nice job Mr. Miracle ...
Where is Rob at ?? I was looking forward to his build also??
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Nice job Mr. Miracle ...
Where is Rob at ?? I was looking forward to his build also??
Sorry, Life gets in the way, and as I said I was only going to post things I felt were different about the Cuda. If their is anything else anyone wants so see or know just ask.
Today I mounted the cowl. Brian Hueffmeier taught me how he mounts his cowl on his Extra 330 and I did that mod to my 330 and it has worked great, so I decided to try the same thing here.
First move the top cowl ring all the way back so it is touching F1. Secure it to the fuse with two screws from the fuse side and blind nuts (or as some say t-nuts) in the ring itself.
Also move both lower cowl J's back to F1 and secure them by a screw threw the black L's that carden provided with the blind nut in the side of the engine box. Drill a small hole through the side of the cowl to access the screws.
Place the cowl in position and tack glue (with ZAP) the cowl in place.
Then take off the cowl by removing the screws and put a GOOP filit between the cowl ring pieces and the cowl.
Note: I ran into a bit of a problem the first time I did it as I am used to working on larger planes - a 1" screw is too long to be unscrewed from the side of the cowl! I had to rip off the J's and start again. PITA! So use 1/2" screws!
Thanks for adding the Cowl work and Brian's tips. I'm watching both threads with anticipation, so anything you may think might help a first timer would greatly be appreciated.
If this is your first Carden, and you want to follow a more in depth build let me recommend http://www.aeroprotect.com/Workbench/CUDA/Index.html
Great site (also has his build of a 330S and a Yak)
Let me say do not be scared of a Carden build. It is not hard, but it does take some work. We all do have tips that we can learn from each other and that is what makes these forums so cool.
If this is your first foam wing also don't be scared. I use a vacuum bagging system, but you don't have to. Foam wings are actually easier to build that built up. (and if done right not heavier) In Fact my Dad's 100CC Comp ARF wing is heavier than his 100CC Carden wing. (and the Carden is bigger too)
I probably won't do much until more until 2006! But all that I have left is final sanding, covering and painting.
This winter I have three projects. The Cuda, Helping someone build an inferior quality Kit and refinishing a 5 year old Edge.
BTW I am thinking of changing my screen name to neverARFed since I have never owned an ARF What do you guys think?
Don't change Rob the handle And yes, this will be my first build of a Carden and I believe I'm going to purchase the $100 pump and accessories, sounds like the way to go.
Thanks for the thread link, that will be a three hour read, but well worth it. Would really like to see how you go about covering yours and how you go about painting (and what parts you do paint) will you glass the turtle deck and paint? or cover to match the cowl?
Ward have you started your Carden kit yet? If so where are you? I am just getting started this week. I have looked at the aeroprotect site it is a good one.
No I have not started yet ; 30% Carden Extra (3 year old kit) I have a couple other projects to finish. I live in Michigan, north of Detroit an hour or so.
I have a brother who lives near you, Dr. Greg Miller / Vice President for the Dairy Association, not sure if you know him.
The other thing I need to do is come up with a good build table, Flat, Level, Heavy Duty, etc.
Door with Glass? 6" Perfect Plank would be my choice, just go to find out how to buy it?
But Rob and jmiracle are both doing a great job with their threads, I love seeing these things come together
FYI.. John @ Aeroprotect is a excellent source for hardware and accesories His build threads are outstanding...
Finally, the covering is DONE!
....and just in time too....I've got a 35% Aerotech Yak showing up tomorrow.
It looks great! I am starting the wing skins in the morning.
I think lightening the control surfaces is a valuable change regardless of what seems like minimal weight savings. I'm also considering honeycombing the wingtips on mine (last 12" on either side) to try and get some weight out of the tips.. less inertia.. Not sure on that one yet.
I can tell you from experience that yeah you may only take a half an ounce off here and a half an ounce off there, but it all really adds up. Thing of it is, you have to look and find every location where you can take the weight out. When you look at the larger CARDEN aircraft, yeah they build a little heavy, but they fly GREAT..... Take 2 pounds out of it and it flies tons better.
I have taken 1 1/3 pounds out of .60 size airplane. I am going to be working on a NEW 40% CARDEN CAP 232 after I finish a 35% EDGE for someone else. My goal with the new CAP is 34 to 35 pounds (NO MORE) with smoke.
One very important part of the whole process is EQUIPMENT SELECTION. With the newer stronger servos, you can use less of them which equals weight reduction. KEEP IT SIMPLE....... do you really have to run all them fancy gizmos??!! The 40% CAP that I fly now doesn't have a power box, match box or anything that it doesn't REALLY need. These planes have been flying well without them since long before all of this stuff came out. If you like using HITEC servos, it's even better as you can PROGRAM them which is a great way to reduce your need for match boxes or similar items. Again, my CAP has 2 RX, 10 servos, 2 RX batteries with REGs, 1 Ignition battery with REG and switches....nothing else for the radio system. You may say that the regulators are unnecessary if you just use a 6v NiMH pack, but the truth is that the Lithium packs with regulators weigh equal or less and have a higher capacity.
Oh yeah the BIG NAME PILOTs use them, but that is mostly advertising. Now I am not saying that these devices don't have their place in the hobby, but is it necessary to do the job.... Hitec has the right idea with the programmable servos. JR and FUTABA haven't done it because they have some neat little devices to sell you.
Obviously, using light weight hardware pays off. The only problem here is that many of the parts that are available to us do not have a weight listed on the package. If I know I am going to a hobby store to get some things, I will take a scale with me to weigh and compare parts..... Take a pencil and paper and write down what you find for future reference.
Using good light weight building techniques and good equipment selection will result in the ultimate flying plane. It seems to take a ton more work, but I am telling you it is well worth it if you build for yourself.
Good luck all.
CUSTOM GIANT SCALE BUILDER
PROTOTYPE MODEL BUILDING for full scale aircraft
current project can be seen at http://www.geversaircraft.com
My wonderful family gave me a Carden Cuda for Christmas !!!
It actually arrived 2 weeks ago so I started construction a little early.
I have the fuse just about finished and I began sheeting the foam today.
Some of the posts in this thread are about weight, this is what I found. I cut all the holes in the sides of the motor box per the plans. I filled the bottom holes with sheet balsa because I will be running a canister. I also cut the hole in the back of the motor box. Total weight savings was 3.5 oz.
I thought this was a lot of work for 3.5 oz but then again, that is almost a 1/4 pound. So I would say yes it is worth the time and effort.
I plan on cutting 2 holes in the landing gear plate and one in the center of F1 per the plans.
So far everything is going well.
My Only update is I am sanding . . . I am up to 600. Shouldn't be long now before I am monokoteing.
Doug . . . I thought long and hard about cutting holes in the elevators and rudder, but I decided not too for two reasons.
1) I don't like the look of the holes through the covering.
2) I like a tail heavy airplane so I don't really want to take too much out of the tail. . . I hope I don't live to eat those words and need nose weight, but on my other Carden I have the batteries as far back as I can and it is still (for 3D) on the nose heavy side, but I feel it's a good balance for IMAC.
Here a couple photos of where I'm at with my Cuda.
Does anyone know of a nice size (right sized) pilot for the Cuda? and a dash panel ?
Lookin good Steve!! If it turns out as nice as your 330 it'll be gorgeous!
Hey Thanks, I hope it turns out nice.
I haven't even started to think of the color scheme for it yet.
The fuse is pretty much complete. I just finished skinning the last of the foam parts so tomorrow I'll begin adding the leading and trailing edges then cutting out the ailerons and elevetor, rudder etc. After that..lots of work with the block plane and sanding bars.
Steve, you putting a canister in there? Looks like you filled in the lightening holes with balsa for a tunnel?
Avoid zen aerobatics...when the ground........and the plane.......become as one.
Steve, what type of cutter is that in the center pic ? I assume its what you used on the holes ?
Yes I'm putting in a DA50 with MTW canister.
The hole cutter is by General and is available at Lowes. It works great and you can get up to a 4 1/2" hole.
In order to make a clean hole on both sides of the ply I cut about 1/2 way through and then flip the part over and cut from the other side.
The drill bit makes a pilot hole so it's easy to cut from both sides.
All the foam has been sheeted. I had some trouble with the bottom deck. The sheet cracked in 2 places when I put it in the shell.
It wasn't too bad. I sanded down 1/16 sheet and edge glued it into the cracks. sanded it down, you can't even tell.
Today I added the leading and trailing edges.
I thought I would share how I shape the leading and trailing edge.
This probably is no secret and how everyone does it but who know..it may help someone.
THe pictures are of the vertical fin/rudder.
I use a Stanley carpenters block plane and the a small Stanley block block along with T bars with sand paper.
I lay down 2 strips of masking tape so as not to go deep and cut into the skins.
The trick with the block planes is don't try to remove too much a one time. When properly adjusted you should be able to get a complete but very thin ribbon of balsa with each pass. Once I get down to the tape I remove the tape and finish up with the T bars.
It probably took me 10 minutes to finish the Fin/Rudder.
Hope this helped. If anyone wants the catalog number of the block planes I use I can get them for you...but really any quality plane will do.
Progress has slowed down a little on the Cuda. This is part of the construction that isn't all that much fun.
I have Ailerons, Elevators and Rudder cut out and their 3/8" ( 1/2" in elevators) LE's and TE's glues on, block planed and sanded flush with their respective surfaces. I still need to mark and drill the hinge locations and then bevel the edges. I make a thin cardboard template with the bevel angle and trace it on each tip end, then draw a line across the top and bottom surface connecting the end marks. From there just careful work with the block plane and long sanding bars.
It's not easy to see in these pictures but look close at the tight fit between the TE of stab and LE of the elevator (same with the rudder).
Some guys use a knife and cut the surfaces free from both sides. I use a bandsaw. I mark the cut lines, lay the part in its foam form and then carefully cut the piece out leaving the line on. Then a couple strokes with a long sanding bar up to the line and it results in a very tight fit.
Now I just need to figure out a better way to bevel the hinge line.....like I said, not my favorite part of construction.
Oh yeah....Curved & rounded wingtips, add those to my list of not my favorite part of construction.
Make me want to build another Extra
Hi fellas I just got my Cuda Kit last week . Alls good except for a defect in the canopy, but its below the paint line so no big deal. I dont much like the wing tip blocks , think I"ll add foam the same as the balsa blocks and just square off the tips like my 35% Cap. Also wont keep the little tip extension , I can promise this will get snatched off in a hanger rash incident[:@]. Keep up the good info.