swk550

My Feedback: (76)

Rudder control horn installation

I fnally have some more time to build. I will be using the TBM CF control horns for all surfaces. I chose them as I can use the Dubro ball links and they support the ball links from both sides. Here are my steps:

1. Sand the bevel in the control surface and drill the Robart hinge holes
2. Inlay a 1" or 1.5" balsa block in the control surface. Use epoxy or Gorilla glue. Sand smooth the surfaces.
3. Assemble the control horn. Measure distance for horn slots. Cut the slots with a band saw.
4. Trial fit the control horn and make sure the ball link is square and centered at the hinge bevel centerline.
5. Make 1/32" hard ply slot closure pieces.
6. After covering, the entire assembly will be installed with epoxy.

Good luck,

Steve

swk550

My Feedback: (76)

Yak Covering

I have next week off for vacation. It's time to start covering. This phase is my hardest because it is so hard for me to do it right. I just need to take my time and not get in a hurry. I've decided to cover my Carden Yak similar to my QQ Yak. I start by laying out the pattern and cutting poster paper templates. I'll post a few more pictures as the covering progresses.

swk550

My Feedback: (76)

Making progress

I have now covered the fuse and stabs. I did go ahead and repaint the cowl and canopy trim colors to match the covering. I used Ultracote on the fuse. The wings and stabs will use Monokote white as I had a 25' roll of the stuff. I did not use monokote on the fuse because Ultracote forms better at the vertical fin at the fuse joint. Today I hope to start covering the wings.

Steve

swk550

My Feedback: (76)

Wing covering

The trim colors are made from poster board templates. The white is Monokote. The trim colors are Ultracote.

Steve

swk550

My Feedback: (76)

Control horn installation

I am using the TBM CF truss type control horns. Pacer hinge glue makes the installation easy. The glue bottle comes with a fine applicator tip. This way I can fill the hinge slots with glue and get good horn coverage. After inserting the horns, center the control linkage over the hinge centerline. I use a Q-tip to wipe up any excess glue after inserting the horn. Now I'm ready to install the radio and engine.

Steve

gregman50

Are those trim colors placed over a completely covered wing or do they just overlap each other? I am just curious because I am going to build my next plane, I've had just about enough of these arfs !!!!!!!!!!!!

swk550

My Feedback: (76)

The trim colors overlap each other. I did not finish it in all white and then add trim colors.

Good luck in your build.

Steve

swk550

My Feedback: (76)

range of CG locations ????

The plans show the CG location around 1/4" from the front edge of the wing tube. On my initial radio intallation, my CG aft to around 1/4" from the rear edge of the wing tube. For IMAC flying, where is the optimal CG location?

Thanks,

Steve

swk550

My Feedback: (76)

Yak balance and battery installation

I had installed two Fromeco 4800 batteries on the engine box for balance. I was still 3/4" aft the recommended CG. I have switched to one 3250ma 6v and one 1650ma 6v NiMh receiver batteries. They are on the front of the engine box. Right now I am between 1/8" and 1/4" aft (rearward) of the CG on the plans.

I am pleased with the final weight at 29#. The plane has a DA 100 engine, MTW TD-75K canisters and eight JR DS8611A servos on the control surfaces and one JR 4031 servo for throttle. Hope the weather clears so I can get in a test flight. Here are some pictures.

swk550

My Feedback: (76)

Maiden flights today

The weather let up today. The field was a bit wet, but winds were light and down the runway. This 32% Yak flies well. I ended up setting the CG per the plans. I only needed one click of up elevator. Rudder and aileron were dead on. This plane flies even better than my QQ 102" Yak. I had four uneventful flights. No mix with right rudder and less than 2% on the other side. I practiced the IMAC sportsman maneuvers and some of the old Masters pattern maneuvers. It draws straight down lines. Right thrust is perfect. We did some harriers and had no wing rock. Torque rolles were effortless. At 29# it feels light. I currently do not have any cowl baffling. The max cylinder temperature today was 125 deg F. Great snaps and stall entries. One thing I really like is the airframe construction. I have almost no vibration. At idle, the ailerons are steady. Absolutely no canopy vibration. Here are a few pictures. I am ready for this season.

Steve K

as722

My Feedback: (1)

Steve,

It looks awesome ! Good luck with your new yak.

Albert

PJFaller

Im getting ready to finish my yak. Did you run the fiberglass for the hatch all the way up to the paint line for canopy or did you just overlap the canopy with fiberglass just a little and then finished the glass work so you could not see where the glass ended and the canopy began. Ive been told I have to overlap the canopy with some fiberglass when I do the whole hatch, but I dont know how far to run the glass on the canopy.

Thanks,

Pete

swk550

My Feedback: (76)

Pete,

I fiberglassed the whole canopy. I would first fiberglass the clear plastic canopy and balsa with 3/4" oz glass cloth with around 3/4" overlap on each side. Then I would sand smooth and then 3/4 oz glass the whole canopy with a 1/4" to 1/2" overlap of the first glass cloth at the plastic/fiberglass zone. The trick is to get the first glass cloth smooth in the transition zone from plastic to the balsa. I ended up using vinyl spackle here to make a smooth transition as it is tough to sand without gouging the balsa. Hope this helps.

Steve K

PJFaller

Thats what I thought.

Thanks,

Pete