icecube0045

Hey, my ct5 jus came in the mail and im havin problems already. Its starts up fine but when i remove the glow igniter it just cuts off.. and when i press the throttle it just sits there and it dosent move even when i press the gas.. also there is fuel comming from the ehuast, wat could be the problem??

Todd71

The engine flame out is a normal occurance when your breaking it in, give it enough throttle just to keep it running or until the engine is warmed up, never hit past 1/2 throttle during this processe. The carb is set rich from the factory this is to ensure the engine has plenty of lubrication and that everything seats properly, after the break in 4~6 full tanks you can then start to adj the LSN first and then the HSN for the best performace, keeping an eye on the head temp which should not go above 220 ~ 240f . lemme get this straight when you pull on the trigger the throttle servo doesnt move??

Todd

Todd71

Look up timmah on here he has some pics posted of his break in processe, you can see the amount of nitro coming from the exh.

I found the page. http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/m_3989147/tm.htm

Todd

icecube0045

now it only stays on when i keep the glow igniter in it and after everytime it starts i have to take out the glow plug and pull the pull start so the gas can come out and then start it again. if i dont do that it wont start at all.

Todd71

First make sure your linkage is setup correct, take off the air cleaner and look into carb the opening should be around 1/16th of an ich. If it looks about right try turning the HSN clockwise 1/8th of a turn and then try starting it unitl it's warm. Once warmed up turn the needle back to the original setting. (Mark the stock settings first with a marker before making any adj) this way you can always set back correctly. Again read timmahh post he also states he loosens the glow plug a little to releave some of the compression and then once started he retightens the glow plug.

Todd

icecube0045

How can I tell how much the opening is? I have a ct4 and a ct5 that i bought today and both of them are giving me the same problem... you can look at my profile to see the pictures..

Todd71

Pull off the aircleaner turn on the radio and receiver, pull the throttle and look inside the carb. The slide opens from what seems to be a fully closed position, when releasing the throttle the slide closes but not all the way. There should be a little opening / gap to let the air inside the carb, that opening should be around 16th of an inch. Keep the plug on the head a little longer to help clean out the gas around 10 ~ 15 seconds and then take it off. HTH

Todd

Todd71

remember break in is a crittical step to the engines life span and performance, it's not to be rushed so take your time and have plenty of patience.

Todd

icecube0045

ok i see what you are talking about andf it is about 1/16 open. when messig the with Low speed needle, would that make the gap smaller and larger?

Todd71

That would be the throttle trim on the receiver pr linkage. If it's about the right opening leave it alone. Try the steps tim had to do to break in the engine.

Todd

icecube0045

ok I will but which screw if for the lowend?

icecube0045

I have moved the HSP and the LSP and the damn thing still wont stay on for more than 5 seconds and i also read the thtread timahhh made and did what he did aqnd still NOTHING!!!

icecube0045

I read ion the manuel that the problem could be that the idle is too low, is it me or is the idle screw IMPOSSIBLE to get to?

Timmahh

the idle set screw is almost always in a quirky position on every engine. it all depends on placement. to date, i have not touched my idle screw. Like i stated in my pm.. you shoud not need to, and just plain should not move the LSN ( the one faceing the front of the cars in the throatle body) until tank 6 or after!!!... you need your engine running rich... it would appear your HSN is still allowing to much gas to enter the engine and causing the flooding issue, which is why it stops running when you remove the igniter.....and also why it dumps fuel when you remove the plug, turn the cars over and pull the ps.....but again, as i stated in one of my pms to you, do it with 1/8 turns for the very first 2 attempts to get it started. then 1/12th turns at a time until you get it started... once started and running replace the HSN to the place you just adjusted it from.
STAY AWAY FROM HIGH REVING. no matter how COOL it sounds. and HOW eager you are to hear it run. overleaning or overreving your engine now will just cost you time and money later and cuz much fustration. way more than you currently have..

the next time you get it to start, just leave the ignitor on for a few minutes . the only thing you can do is drain the ignitor battery and maybe burn out your glow plug. so dont worry about damaging anything. (just be sure you have extra glow plugs), this should help stop the flame outs ( glow plug being overly cooled by the excess amount of fuel coming into the engine is called a flame out).. once started, feather the trigger to help ensure the motor stays running. (feathering the trigger is just lightly giveing the throatle light pulls just enought to raise the engine rpms a small amount and letting it go back to idle and then lightly giveing it gas again, then back to idle, doing this repeatidly is called feathering the throatle..). once your running and you can remove the glow ignitor and stay running, you ll want to get your HSN back to a more rich setting but again. a little goes a LONG way when turning the needles.. so once your up and running, TURN your HSN back counterclockwise 1/8 of a turn to be sure your still running rich. IF the engine stalls right away again, just restart it without moveing the HSN.... once you have had the motor running constantly for about 3 minutes, your starting attempts from then on will be met with much better sucess...

you may need to get the HSN a bit leaner than the 1/2 turn it took me to get mine started....it was 50 degrees out when i did mine, now its much warmer and the air is thinner so it has less oxygen. therefore less oxygen to burn with the nitro.. by making SMALL leaning turns to the HSN, you ll get to a point where the engine is getting a more acceptable air/fuel mixture and will start to run..

READ THAT link i sent you for tuning. it really is VERY helpful NOW and LATER!!!!!!
did you get these at a local store? if so, take one in with you and ask their tech for some help and guidance to get the first on started. have them go thru the process with you and explain it while they are doing it so you understand why things are being done the way they are.....

icecube0045

It seems no matter whhich way u turn the HSN it still waits about 5 sec after the glow plug is removed and just dies.. I am going to take it to my local hobby shop today and hopefully they will help me out with it. I bought all of my cars from online so i didnt get it from them.

icecube0045

my local hobby shop has it, i gotta go pick her up at 5.

icecube0045

I took it to the hobby shop, they got my ct5 running. i noticed that all they did was screw in the HSN about 2 turns, so i went home and did that to my ct4-s and got that one running too. I let the ct5 idle for 4 tanks. I didnt really run it after the idling and i let my ct4 idle for about 4 tanks and i ran it for about 3 hours, of course not three hours straight... Now my problem is with the ct4, it runs but when i press the gas the car just dosent move. So i put the ct5 next to the ct4 (i had both of them on and running) to see whats different on it and i noticed that the yellow i think its a sprocket, maybe its a gear i dunno but it looks like yellow sprocket right next to the green one, its just moving without me pressing the gas... what could be wrong with it? Also my tire keeps on moving to the right side so i cant do a drag and thats really anoying me.., is there a way to change this?