matrix arena diff. problems.
#2
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RE: matrix arena diff. problems.
What problems with the diffs? I havent heard of any problems with them... They are limited slip type but havent heard of any problems.
If you want to convert them over to a standard cross pin type diff Gene Hickerson has a kit for $40 clams.
If you want to convert them over to a standard cross pin type diff Gene Hickerson has a kit for $40 clams.
#3
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RE: matrix arena diff. problems.
Maybe you have heard wrong. Nothing is wrong with the diffs. They are just not the typical standard diffs you would find in other truggies.
With LSD diffs the wheel that is on contact with the surface will get all the power while the opposite wheel doesn't.
With Standard diffs the wheel with less contact gets more power.
With LSD diffs the wheel that is on contact with the surface will get all the power while the opposite wheel doesn't.
With Standard diffs the wheel with less contact gets more power.
#4
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RE: matrix arena diff. problems.
there is know problems with the diff. the reason they are different is because the diff in the truggy/buggy were and ARE the same ones out of the big bad monster truck the genesis/nemesis and thats why they are so beafy it is very hard to break a gear in these diffs and on top of that i no guys that run mugen jammin ect and the changing ring/pinion gears all the tim i race alot every weekend and practice during the week and i havent had one problem with my diffs and its been months and a driver from headrushhobbies been running the same diffs in the matrix for a year now (of constant weekly racing) and still has no problem and to top it off i just check my GREASE in my diffs in the buggy(matrix ofcourse) and it still perfect and its been 3 months about 16 races and there still SMOOTH as a knife going through butter.........so where evr you this "matrix diff problems" if probally that someone didnt know how to set the diffs up and they where just having problems either that or they dont know what there talking about and just wanna "hate" on the diffs
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RE: matrix arena diff. problems.
the Diffs, there good....there just different.....there strong in "General" you'll find few problems with them.....
now for "Tuning" if your just bashing having fun there "Bullet Proof"
BUT !!!
as far as "Consistancy goes" many discribe handling Charateristics typical of this type of Diff...
many do NOT like the Handling???
many do...???
but it does do "Exactly" what it is designed to do...it will "Lock" with No "Load"
in Very VERY high traction conditions this can help...and if just having fun there would be nothing more needed....
but in "Typical Track Conditions"......
Notice i said "Typical" track conditions.......
the Diffs will react "Very Differenty" than diffs one may find on the market...
(Kyosho,Mugen,VTX,Ofna,Jammin,ThunderTiger,Team Magic,Robitronics,HPI,etc)
they act simular to a "Torsen Diff" in England for th 1/8 scale worlds (way back LOL)
a torsen diff was the way to go..!! the track was on Grass !!!
but in the "Dirt" these style of diffs did not fair well...???
which is why in "General" a good "Majority" of drivers do not use these diffs...
same applies to the CEN diff....great diff...but some do not like the way they make the car or trucks handle.....
many comment when entering a corners the trucks "Feel Un-predictable" and as well exiting corners...if you can counter steer really well this will not be a problem...
but some do not "Adapt well" to this driving style...
what happens when the diff looses traction to that wheel...
the diff "Locks" turning into a "Posi-Axle" in drag racing this is good...dirt Bad.......
many of the pro drivers keep this in the front....
"VERY Rarley" in the center and rear.....
reason for the front will help the truck "Pull Out Of the Corner" doesn't steer as well but it helps "Pull" the car or truck........
if kept in the center the car or truck sometimes at random will "Buck" tossing the rear in the air over smaller Bumps and jumps....
but once "Broken in" after about 3 or 4 gallons this becomes less intence but still will be "There"
also in "Acceleration" this will help as well...as the diffs "Lock" all the power is transfered to the wheels.....
but over all the diffs are fine.....very good and "Solid" but if you have ever raced any other type of cars with the more "Conventional" style of diffs you will notice a difference....
i can not "Speak" for all drivers....but in mine i tried getting "Used To" the diffs for almost 4 months...in the truck...and changed out mine to ones we make...
and it is like night and Day "Different"......can come into a corner Harder, Exit faster and feels more Consistant from coner to corner
but if you decide to keep the stock diffs...use "Gear Oil" available in most Car or Cycle shops
80wt. for front 90wt center 60wt. rear......
if using "Standard" diffs 5k front, 7k center 3k rear........truck will be planted......
#1 pistons up front 55wt oil #1's in back 40wt oil.....is a pretty good "Baseline".....
with the stock Camber link postions....
but as i mentioned the diffs are great can climb straight up the side of a Telephone pole!!!
awesome for bashing having fun...and some drivers do do well with the stock diffs....
if you are having fun at the track and do not feel the need to fuss...keep them you'll have a blast...but if half a second here and there is the gain may want to consider changing out the diffs..but drive one first...the TR's once for ounce best buy for RTR's......
and if yor Local hobby shop carries parts...all the better.....
if this is your first truck? no matter what make you decide Upon,be sure you can get parts localy..hope this can help ........
now for "Tuning" if your just bashing having fun there "Bullet Proof"
BUT !!!
as far as "Consistancy goes" many discribe handling Charateristics typical of this type of Diff...
many do NOT like the Handling???
many do...???
but it does do "Exactly" what it is designed to do...it will "Lock" with No "Load"
in Very VERY high traction conditions this can help...and if just having fun there would be nothing more needed....
but in "Typical Track Conditions"......
Notice i said "Typical" track conditions.......
the Diffs will react "Very Differenty" than diffs one may find on the market...
(Kyosho,Mugen,VTX,Ofna,Jammin,ThunderTiger,Team Magic,Robitronics,HPI,etc)
they act simular to a "Torsen Diff" in England for th 1/8 scale worlds (way back LOL)
a torsen diff was the way to go..!! the track was on Grass !!!
but in the "Dirt" these style of diffs did not fair well...???
which is why in "General" a good "Majority" of drivers do not use these diffs...
same applies to the CEN diff....great diff...but some do not like the way they make the car or trucks handle.....
many comment when entering a corners the trucks "Feel Un-predictable" and as well exiting corners...if you can counter steer really well this will not be a problem...
but some do not "Adapt well" to this driving style...
what happens when the diff looses traction to that wheel...
the diff "Locks" turning into a "Posi-Axle" in drag racing this is good...dirt Bad.......
many of the pro drivers keep this in the front....
"VERY Rarley" in the center and rear.....
reason for the front will help the truck "Pull Out Of the Corner" doesn't steer as well but it helps "Pull" the car or truck........
if kept in the center the car or truck sometimes at random will "Buck" tossing the rear in the air over smaller Bumps and jumps....
but once "Broken in" after about 3 or 4 gallons this becomes less intence but still will be "There"
also in "Acceleration" this will help as well...as the diffs "Lock" all the power is transfered to the wheels.....
but over all the diffs are fine.....very good and "Solid" but if you have ever raced any other type of cars with the more "Conventional" style of diffs you will notice a difference....
i can not "Speak" for all drivers....but in mine i tried getting "Used To" the diffs for almost 4 months...in the truck...and changed out mine to ones we make...
and it is like night and Day "Different"......can come into a corner Harder, Exit faster and feels more Consistant from coner to corner
but if you decide to keep the stock diffs...use "Gear Oil" available in most Car or Cycle shops
80wt. for front 90wt center 60wt. rear......
if using "Standard" diffs 5k front, 7k center 3k rear........truck will be planted......
#1 pistons up front 55wt oil #1's in back 40wt oil.....is a pretty good "Baseline".....
with the stock Camber link postions....
but as i mentioned the diffs are great can climb straight up the side of a Telephone pole!!!
awesome for bashing having fun...and some drivers do do well with the stock diffs....
if you are having fun at the track and do not feel the need to fuss...keep them you'll have a blast...but if half a second here and there is the gain may want to consider changing out the diffs..but drive one first...the TR's once for ounce best buy for RTR's......
and if yor Local hobby shop carries parts...all the better.....
if this is your first truck? no matter what make you decide Upon,be sure you can get parts localy..hope this can help ........