Zamboni_Assasin

Hello all,
Im new to the site, and relatively new to the RC hobby. Im buying my first nitro very soon, have a limited budget, and have the opportunity to buy either a CEN MG10MT or MG16 for the exact same (low) price. Ive done some research on the site here and have found a lot of opinion on the MG16 but not as much on the MG10. And thats really what im looking for is some more opinion on the MG10 vs MG16. I know the specs of both and understand that as far as components go they are almost identical, and upgrade/engine mods(NX-.18 flywheel mod) are the same for both, except for a few exceptions due to size restricition in the MG16. So all-in-all Ive found with a little ingenuity these units are basically the same except for size.....So my question boils down to this, which one is better for a nitro noob, who is a speed junkie and loves wheelies(MG16) but knows that the MG10 is a more practical purchase. Basically, which am I going to have more fun with?

Sorry to keep beating this issue to death.....but your quick responses will be greatly appreciated!!!

Bash-m-up

My Feedback: (7)

Well they would both be good for you as a starter into the nitro arena. The differences in the two is mainly the size like you had stated. The 16 being 1/16th scale and the 10 bieng 1/10th scale. If you can get either for the same price I would have to say choose the 1/10th scale or the MG10. Only because it is not only 10th scale but if later you decided to run a club race there would more than likely be a class for you to run in and too, with its size a engine upgrade in the future would be less of a hassle for you to find. It may very well be easier to work on too, I don't know, but that would be the one I would choose if I had to for a first nitro. The reasoning behind the hype of the MG16 is that 1/16th scale cars are new to the scene, maybe they are just a passing fad, maybe they are here to stay, whose to say, but with Newness (if that's a word) comes craze, many Mfgs are starting to produce these, whether or not they will stay has yet to be determined. It's sortof like the mini craze, Losi with the Mini-T and Associated with their mini, then the Mini LST1 and 2, and again the Mini MGT, but Losi didnt' stop there, they now have a Micro T... I don't see it doing too well, the micro market is owned by the 9.99-19.99 Wal-Mart and Radio Shack cars... Not much difference in between the two, besides Losi's being $90 and the cheapos being well, $10. Sorry just rambling, go with the 10 and welcome to the hobby, be sure to follow your instructions to the T, don't short cut, and make sure every screw is tight before running it and I am sure you will have a good time.

Zamboni_Assasin

Also Ive noticed that the MG16 requires an RX Battery mod, can anyone tell me if this is the case on the MG10 as well, or if its already set up to receive a pack....? Thanks for any help.

Zamboni_Assasin

And if so, which RX pack would be recommended....?

mini offroad

yeah man im new to the rc nitro hobby as well and am leaning towards the mg 16.

CEN Racing

MG-16 is THE MOST BANG FOR THE BUCK RIGHT NOW!!!!! We designed this car to make it easy for enthusiast to try their hand at nitro without spending a whole bunch!!! These retail for around $220 I say go for it!
notch johnson

Zamboni_Assasin

Seens like opinions are pretty much split on this issue.....Leaving me no less confused then when i got here.....

CrazyMento

The MG trucks are prefect 1st timer trucks. They are the same platform and share 80% of parts so upgrades are available for both. Just pick the size you want and enjoy. The price is awesome. i am picking up a MG16 to play in my backyard..

Zamboni_Assasin

Well, looks like I ended up with the MG-16 after missing out on the MG-10.....and in all honesty was looking forward to having more fun with the 16 instead of the 10....All in all ended up costing me $159CAN shipped to my door, new in the box!!! I think I got a good deal and cant wait to receive this thing and get started....So any specific startup tips for the MG16 would be greatly appreciated so that Im good to go as soon as it arrives!!! and any nitro noob tips would help also...I appreciate the help guys, this is BY FAR the most helpful RC site on the net. Thanks

CEN Racing

The MG-10 has a different battery compartment then the MG-16

destrux

The micro-t performs ALOT differently than any cheap radio shack or walmart car... if you've never driven one don't talk. None of the toy cars from walmart or radio shack can take a 5ft jump off my porch onto concrete without the wheels snapping off, but my micro-t has done it hundreds of times without one broken part.

Back to topic... I bought an MG10 a few days ago and it's great. Really takes a beating. Only thing I plan to do is put a bigger motor in and a custom painted body.

webdr

Its not required, just something that people do who dont like using aa batteries. Using 4 aa batteries works just fine. It has plenty of power and actually lasts pretty long with.

Also, if you have a way to charge 4 aa cells, get the venom rechargable aa batteries. They will pop right in.

Zamboni_Assasin

Glad you replied webdr!
It was really your review that convinced me to go with the CEN MG series...Ya sorry, I guess "required" was the wrong word. What I meant was, for those who opt to do the mod what sort of Voltage and Mah should a guy be shooting for?....Ive since found the threads with the right info, I think (6v and 1500Mah, I believe that was what Muck76 had)?....but thanks anyway webdr, and I noticed that you seem to have gotten a lot of life out of your AA's, but others seem to complain about only getting 3 tanks out of them, however I have found another who said he got 9 tanks including break-in, so Ill definitley be giving it a shot before going straight to the mod. Any other quirks or general tips specific to the MG-16 youve found since the review would be welcomed!!! Mine will be arriving next week!!! Thanks again.

webdr

From my experiences, it's actually a bulletproof ride. I have not broken one thing on it and I run it pretty hard. One thing you could do is cut the body for the pull start. I got around 8 tanks before I changed the batteries, then I switched to rechargable and solved that. Tires are decent but could stand to be upgraded to something with a little more grip.
Enjoy it, I liked it alot more than the mg10.

pede_187

I would get the 1/10 for my first nitro. 1/16 are more of stunt/fun trucks rather than bashers.

Zamboni_Assasin

Thanks webdr. Thats what I wanted to hear, that you enjoyed the 16 more than the 10....Do you have any suggestions for tires that might suit it better?

Zamboni_Assasin

And can anyone tell me what size wheel hex the MG16 uses? Im tryin to shop out some new kicks...should I be looking for 12mm wheels, or 14mm?

CEN Racing

12mm is what comes stock-
I would imagine you could make 14s work fairly easily as well....
Hope this helps,
notch

Zamboni_Assasin

Thanks notch, it helps a lot.....and so Im guessing to make 14's work I would need to get a 12mm-14mm adapter? and if so do I need a specific adapter or will any 12mm-14mm work? sorry for all the noob questions, guess im a little anxious lol

Zamboni_Assasin

Or if anyone can direct me to a nice selection of 12mm wheels for me to shop that would help too.....I just cant seem to find much but thats the noob in me....

muck76

159 Can for one of these was a good find Zam. I probably would have tried to talk you into the MG10 also for a starter nitro. It would be easier to hop up and has lower center of gravity. The 16 sits higher and has a tendency to roll. That is why you see some with fins missing on top the head. I hope CEN comes out with a better head soon. (Hint hint Notch)
Either way you grabbed a MG16 so i would like to answer some of your questions that i can. I am extremely happy with my Mg16 and do not regret it what so ever. It is one tough truck and a lot of bang for the buck! I was going to sell mine since i just picked up a MT2 G3.0 and i want to do some mods to it but i can not get rid of it. It is a fun little truck and easy to take any where. Plus my daughter cries at the thought of it being gone. My little rc buddy likes it too.

Mods as you probably have read that most do are a battery mod of some kind and bearings in the knuckles. I would definitely do bearings as your first upgrade.
I used traxxas bearings. Here is a link on duratrax ones that will fit. Just make sure you get rubber sealed ones.
http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXD121&P=M

I agree with WebDr, a major battery mod is not needed if you have good batts. i was using Energizer 2300mah rechargeable batteries and they sucked in it. The batteries are older so it maybe from that. I would recommend trying either the Vemons or even Energizer Lithium batteries. The LI batts are 1.5v so you will get the 6.0v for the rx. I was also using my rechargeable's in my digi camera and it drains them fast. I threw some of the LI batteries i mentioned in it and i am still using the original set.
MAKE SURE YOU GLUE THE BATTERY TERMINALS IN THE CASE THAT BOLTS TO THE BOTTOM OF THE CHASSIS. A major issues is the center termial coming out causing a run a way and breakage. I just used normal super glue. If you need a pic of it i can see if i still have one prior to my mod cuts.

I will get to wheels but i want to cover tuning the 2.5 first. As you probably have read some including my self have had issues with it not idling and hydro locking the carb. It is from the LSN setting being to rich.
Here is traxxas guide for break in and tuning of their engines. i used it on mine and it works great. You can decide on what you want. The main thing i want you to see is how to set the LSN properly. It is listed on the second link i am attaching. It will greatly helped how it performs and the hydro locking effect. I am in Michigan and our climate is close. I found my LSN to be 1.5 turns in from flush. Factory is 1 turn out. Others may be different due to their area. Temps on the CEN engine are lower than traxxas also so please ignore that part. Your temps should not go over 240. i maintain 220 max 230. Replacement glow plug is OS8.



I also upgraded the air filter to a HPI filter I like 2 stage filters better than the stock ones... personal opinion.
http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...&I=LXLGB1&P=ML

I also changed my exhaust just like Digout did here.
Here is a link to it and a couple of short vids to hopefully show a difference between the 2. I am however going to go back to stock and going to add another outlet like what is on the right side of the stock pipe now to the left. I am hoping to get similar results but will less rear mass and a better fitting body. It wheelies so much with the single chamber pipe it has trashed the rear of my body.
http://forums.thetoyz.com/index.php?showtopic=738

Upper arms. Digout used Lunsford TI rods on his. I am getting traxxas ones next week and will post a thread on it when i am done. The reason i mention this is the camber with the stock upper arms is fixed and it wears the inside of the tires due to the setting. With threaded rods you can adjust it to make use of all the tread on your tires and get longer life out of them.

Now tires and rims. I am going to use RPM rear nitro rustler rims. They have about a 1/4" wider off set than stock. I liked the look and feeling better with the wider offset. I did throw my MT2 G3.0 rims and tires on it and they also fit the same with a wider off set so you could grab the hpi 12mm rims. The stock hexes on the CEN are metal and made of a very nice material so i would stick with 12mm rims. Plus i think the tires associated with the 14mm hex will be too large and to much stress on the diffs. I was going to run Proline 2.2 Dirt Works but after having my MT2 i am going to run the Geolanders instead. They seem like a good tire and i think will wear longer than the proline ones. Plus the geolanders are a little taller than the stock tires and the Proline tires. If you do not do a upper arm mod the Geolanders are a little more rounded on the corners and can handle the neg camber. The Dirt Works are more square and i do not think they could.
http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXMV46
http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXEXA3&P=M

Bodies... i am still working on that. I want to try a Team VTX MST1 body but i am waiting for a clear body to get in at my supplier. The painted version has cut outs for the VTX all ready in it and they do not match up to the MG16. Clear does not. I also made a cut out for my Mg16 in the windshield a little lower for easy access to the fuel tank so i do not have to pull the body to add fuel. I just keep going!

i hope some of this helped and i hop i did not miss any thing LOL.

Zamboni_Assasin

I bow down to you Muck.....thank you so much for taking the time to put together everything I needed to know about the MG-16 in one little package....I am truly grateful!!! You definitley covered everything I can think of for now....Very cool man, youre awesome!!!

Though Im not sure which "second link" you attached regarding setting the LSN....?

muck76

no need to bow, glad to help!
BTW the LSN is a bear to get to with a normal screw driver. You will need a pocket screw driver to get to it. Once tuned right you will not really need to touch it again.

Zamboni_Assasin

did you catch my edit there on the last post....about the second link regarding the lsn?

muck76

because i linked the tag as an imiage instead of a link it is now a picture sorry for the confusion. The part i wanted you to read was the pinch test of the fuel line to the carb for setting the LSN. Once the HSN is set you pinch the fuel lin going into the carb and watch/time how long before it dies and adjust from there according to the instructions above.

it is called L-spd on the pic