hvac

My Feedback: (7)

I have the Sport with a OS 32 and Century Black Crap Pipe, 401 Gyro, analog servos including tail. It flies pretty good. I am doing flips, loops, inverted, piros, etc. after two months of self taught flying. I upgraded to red dampers and bought Centurys CF Blades. Do not buy Centurys CF Blades. They are too heavy for the OS 32 and your collective(lift) sucks. They wont hold the heli in inverted flight, let alone climb inverted. I went back to the stock woodies that fly much better. Just dont push them to much with 3D stuff. Good heli to do learning and mild aerobatics/3D. It is not a true 3D machine. With a Toki 40 or OS 37 you could probably do more 3D. Had Mark Fadely look it over and Dave Smith flew it a little. They said basically the same thing. If your serious about helis buy a 50/60 size to learn with. More power is always a good thing. I got this Hawk at must buy bargain price, otherwise I would have bought a Raptor 50 or maybe a Raven.

TIA

Wow! Unbelievable!

syclic

Hmmm...did you reset your pitch & throttle curves to optimize the C/F blades? Century/Heliworld offer a number of different 550mm composite mainblades (FunKey, RotorTech and Vortex) what ones did you try?

I have found the the inexpensive FunKey 550 and RotorTech 550's worked very well, right side up and inverted with the hard dampers. But they both required different curves from the woodies.

That being said, I also found the stock torque tube drive and the stock damping system on the Hawk Pro using the higher power of the OS37H or Toki 40 will do impressive 3D with both these blades.

hvac

My Feedback: (7)

dont know the manufacturer, just said century on the box as i remember. yes, we changed pitch curves and throttle curves, no help. my motor just didnt have enough power to handle those blades. i need to get a good muffler at least, or a new os 37 or toki 40 to handle those cf blades. put the woodies back on and can hold inverted with very slow rise in inverted, just not enough power. also tuned the motor better, low end was 1/2 turn too rich and high was about 3 clicks too lean, that also helped, but i am getting all i can out of current motor. i bought it used and dont know how old it is.

syclic

I believe the problem is also one of loosing pitch when inverted, The Sport has a 5mm spindle without the 5mm ID to 6mm OD sleeve that is stock with the Hawk Pro. Without this, the position of the spindle within the dampers is different with the weight of the heli below the rotor when right side up relative to what it is inverted when the weight of the heli is above the rotor.

Using the the spindle assembly from the Pro (HW3180C) will eliminate this loss of pitch. You will find the spacers a hard fit into the hard dampers, but take your time and lubricate the dampers with a silicon grease, install these dampers and the slightly onger spindle and you will find much beter inverted performance.

hvac

My Feedback: (7)

when i bought the red dampers i also got some brass sleeves and two washers. but when i put the sleeves inside the dampers with the washers the spindle tightened up so much that the blades would hardly pivot for pitch, so i took the sleeves and washers out. i only have the red dampers in there now. i also wasnt sure which side the washers went on. towards the blades or towards the main shaft. do you know what i am talking about? you may be right about losing blade pitch when inverted, especially since i only have the dampers iin the blade holders.

syclic

Yakmonoff,

If you go to the support area hear on the Centruy site:

http://www.centuryheli.com/support/m...ml?currentid=2

And look up the Hawk Pro manual. Then scroll down to the area in the PDF file with the heading "Main Sub Assemblies" on the top of page 12, you will see a blow-up of the rotor head with a clear picture of the feathering shaft, damper, washers and sleeve. This will clearly show where everything goes. It is all an easy firt with the stock black dampers, and will get rid of any spindle float that results in loss of pitch when inverted.

If you want even tighter damping you can still use the red dampers with the sleeve, although they will be harder to fit. Using a synthetic silcone grease on the dampers and sleeves will make it a lot easier. Initially you may get a bit of stiifness from the dampers rubbing the sleeve/bearings but in flight, centrifugal forces will pull the blades away from the dampers and in a short time the dampers etc. will all seat properly and all will work much smoother. So equiped, you will find that you must keep headspeeds in around 1750 to 1950 as any lower can cause this extra hard damping to cause "nodding" ( the heli will slowly nod for/aft in hover) with some blades.