pimmnz

Again, Patrick, why the swept mainspar? The wing is tapered, but not swept. If you put the spar just forward of the wheel wells, and straight, then the joining is really simple, you can build the spar as one piece with a straight dihedral/centre brace, and add the ribs etc side to side and build each side flat on the plan. Where the spar ends up at the tip does not really matter, as the loads are concentrated at the centre any way. You could laminate another spar flange to the one shown, taper it between ribs just outboard of the retract bearers and only need a couple of staggered 1/16" ply braces at the centre. Is the top of the wing flat? If it is, then the top spar can be one piece and the bottom spar carries the ply joiners. Just ideas to make construction simpler, FWIW...
Evan, WB #12.

Patrick F

My Feedback: (17)

Hi Evan, I think i understand what you are saying, Take a look at this drawing and let me know if this will work.

Pat
Lasercut USA

pimmnz

Yep, now move it forward enough to clear the wheel wells, if you are going to use a shear web glue it to the forward side of the spar. Keep thinking "How can I make this easier to build, and what bits are not doing anything?" Then leave those bits out.
Evan, WB #12.

doxilia

My Feedback: (3)

Pat,

nice work. The servo wells, if that's what they are, strike me as being a little too far aft in the wing. While our engines today are heavier then they were back then, having all the servos behind the CG strikes me as excessive. Also, having the aileron servos close to or on the CG reduces angular momentum. I'd put them just outboard of where the retract plates are, or even, make the retract plates (perhaps they are rails) be part of the servo mount. Alternatively, the servos can be mounted in balsa pockets which are bonded on two sides to the outboard section of a rib and a shear web applied to the spar in that inter-rib location.

I suppose the present location makes for shorter linkages provided one uses micro servos. I'm not sure even mini's would fit in that location without protruding from the top of the wing given the airfoil shown.

Something to think about maybe.

David

MTK

Evan,

It's not necessary to use ply braces on this size wing. It's simpler and lighter to use a layer of 3 oz glass cloth on the center joint. Spars don't need to be straight either; sweep is fine as long as the center section is glassed.

Here's another way to build one piece wing. I have a 2 meter model, Alliance, that I designed and built a different, alternate wing for 10 years ago. The original model had a one piece wing, and at nearly 2 meters spam, it always got in the way. Decided that the new wing would be a two piece pull apart type. Still used as a one piece on the model but was set-up to break down into two pieces.

It was straight forward to set it us as a two piece plug together. I used sockets about 7 1/2" long (one socket cut in half) in each panel and supported the socket with subspars, top and bottom. A 14" long piece of 7/8" dia carbon tubing was the main spar holding things together. The subspars that supported each socket were made of 1/8" 8 pound balsa stock and were approximately 12-14" long, extending past the socket ends.

The subspars were glued into the foam with Pro bond, extending vertically from the socket to the surface. They essentially form an I beam structure through the socket and to the skins. Worked great and is the lightest set-up I've yet conceived

I retired the model about 3 years ago after several years and I'd guess around 1200 flights. Everything still holds together fine; just time to move on to other things.

Patrick F

My Feedback: (17)

OK Guys thanks for the feedback i will make some more changes on this wing and post it as soon as it is done,i like the idea of combining the retract slot with the servo well's i can make a ply box to hold both the servo for the aileron and the retract.Also if you go to my web page www.lasercutusa.com under New Events i will be offering the Atlas as my first short kit there are just a few minor things i may want to add to the plane like that removible canopy, need some more feedback also the pricing needs to be figured out but that will be on my web.

Thanks
Pat
Lasercut USA

pimmnz

Thanks for that MTK. but none of my SPA/BPA models have any glass on them, and they all use balsa spars, so ensuring a good 'tapered strength' down them is a priority. I don't have any experience with glass at all, and I have only ever built one foam wing, and didn't like it, so I have had an aversion to that stuff ever since. Closest I came to a 'glass bandage' was a gauze bandage filled with PVA, and I didn't like that either...I must be old...
Evan, WB #12.

Patrick F

My Feedback: (17)

Here is an updated version with the servo and retract as one, NEED FEEDBACK

Pat
Lasercut USA

doxilia

My Feedback: (3)

Pat,

that's the concept but those plates look like a rather large piece of 1/4" ply - heavy.

I was thinking along the lines of this...

I would also get rid of the servo lead tubes and move the spar forward as Evan suggested to clear the wheel well sheeting. I would then add a sub-spar on the other end of the well that ran from the outboard end of the plate (i.e., the rib at that position) to the root. While the rib doesn't support the plate per se at the TE end, it does produce a type of closed "box structure".

Servo leads can run through the shear web in front of the servo and then inward toward the root in the D-tube section. I guess the only concern is whether this results in very long pushrods from the servo to the aileron. The location of the LG in the M1 appears to be very far forward, no doubt caused by the very pronounced taper along the TE leaving the CG pretty close to the current spar location I'd imagine.

David.

pimmnz

Yep, looks good, if you don't want to move the top spar forward, then you can just move the bottom one. They don't need to line up...Actually, the 'up' position of the wheel doesn't really matter, you could angle the leg rearwards in the 'up' position to clear the spar as well. The 'down' position of the axle is the only one that matters. Just be sure to tie the retract beams into the spar so that the landing loads are spread through the wing, rather than concentrating them in a small area.
Evan, WB #12.

JeffH

My Feedback: (43)

Is this for the Midwest Mach 1 or the original Norm Page/MAN plans Mach 1? From what I understand, there is a difference in wing design???

Patrick F

My Feedback: (17)

Yes this is the MAN Norm Pages Mach-1. There is no difference, all i did is take the original layout from the plans for the wing and stab and is offering a built up version for an all wood MACH-1. If you check my web www.lasercutusa.com under new kits i will be offering some of the classic pattern plane for a all wood construction.

Patrick F

My Feedback: (17)

Here is pretty much the final drawing for the MACH-1 Wing and Stab I will start cutting the parts and begin to build it will keep you posted with photos. The Fuse and Rudder are on the original MAN MACH-1 Drawing so their was no reason to redraw them. These construction drawings will be included with the short kit for the MACH-1 price still to be determined check with my web site www.lasercutusa.com for availability.

Thanks Pat
Lasercut USA

doxilia

My Feedback: (3)

Pat,

something happened to your attachment - it is hardly legible. What did you decide to do with the spars and the wheel wells? Did you offset the bottom spar forward so that it doesn't interfere?

Looking forward to seeing this framed up. Please post photos of your progress on the wing and stab if you can.

David.