jmb52760

I decided to test my new NovaRossi R61 Speed 13 on a retired plane. Guess which model this started as.

This engine has in-flight mixture control. I have it set up and working but I'm not really sure I'm doing it right. Any pointers?

impactiq

My Feedback: (57)

Center your trim lever or knob. Put a little "L" for lean and a "R" rich on your control. Set up your carb's inflight control so you have bind free, equal travel in both directions. Tune your carb like normal (Novarossi uses a small flat blade screwdriver for the needles). Once you have your base settings set (little rich) get it in the air.

My personal experience with the inflight mixture control is it is great for plane designs that will not allow an "ideal" tank setup. This usually means that you half to richen the mixture as the fuel level goes down in the tank. It can also be used as a fine tuning tool while flying to get everything out of the engine..... but I never trusted myself for that kind of "lean" adjustment while the plane flies by a full throttle....

Hope this is what you are looking for.

jmb52760

Yep, that's pretty much what I'm doing. I have it on the flap channel that has three positions and I adjust it on the ground in the center position so I can go either leaner or richer. I've played with it but I haven't really needed it because this engine/pipe combo is so tolerant of mixture variations.

keithtsr

My Feedback: (3)

I have to ask, how did you get the pressure tap on the pipe?
Thanks!

doxilia

My Feedback: (3)

Mitch,

good to see you around the forums again. You're going to love that engine if you haven't flown it yet. Very elastic, amazing high end brute power and not critical on the carburetor. I've been able to get it to idle, factory settings, at under 2K rpm on a pretty light Rev-Up 11x7-3/4". Snap the throttle open and it will hit 15K almost instantaneous. Props do make a big difference on how it behaves so try a few out. I've liked the Falcon wood props that are similar in design to the APC's. Xoar's are good too but heavier and better if you want to turn a larger 12" prop in which case the Speed drops down to a more typical long stroke. The high timing of the engine is what makes it remarkable since it is also a long stroke. Top end rpm on small props (11x7, 11x8) but excellent lugging power on large props (12x8, 12x10). All in all a very flexible, well natured, easy to start RE engine.

You'll notice that the mixture control is not very senstitive which is where it should be at. The threads on the mixture needles is typically very coarse so that a small movement of the servo will cause the needle to turn the equivalent of 1/4 - 1/2 a turn. In the case of the Speed, I think it is closer to 1/4 turn and the engine is not very "peaky" so it is just right for adjusting the needle depending on the fuel level in your tank.

BTW, the standard NR fuse top header has a 1-1/8" rise (C-to-C) which might be a better fit for that particular model. You can still angle the pipe up slightly if needed by bending at the coupler.

Keep us posted on your flights!

David

P.S. What is that bird?

doxilia

My Feedback: (3)

Keith,

adding a tap to the header or pipe doesn't necessarily require it to be backed by a nut. If you drill the pipe or header carefully and with the right bit, you can then "tap" the aluminum with a threaded nipple. If you have a gasket type washer at the base of the nipple, when you screw it down snug, it will stay in place just fine. This allows one to put the nipple at the widest part of the diverging cone of the pipe which is otherwise inaccessible from the interior.

David

keithtsr

My Feedback: (3)

Thanks David. I have my first one on the header. It runs erratic right now but I've only got about a 1/2 gallon of fuel through it.

In the old days I would have a friend of mine tig a small block on the pipe then I would thread it. The NovaRossi pipe is kinda of bulky there so I give it a try.
Thanks again!

doxilia

My Feedback: (3)

Keith, when tapping the header, you ideally want to tap in the straight section of it beyond any rises or bends. Close to the coupler in other words. The gas flow in and around bends can be more turbulent and cause tank pressure to vary more than when tapping the pipe. But many engines including the Speed 13 run fine with header tapped pressure - at least mine does.

What engine is running erratic?

Yea, the NR pipes are quite chunky compared to say Macs. I think they are thicker than Hatori's too which are thicker than Macs. Actually, NR offered to provide tapped pipes if we wanted much like Hatori does (I think it was concluded there was no need). The tap is simply closed off with a provided screw if not used.

I plan to use more NR Rex pipes including the 45-57 size 50350 (on a Rossi 45 RE) and the 28 size 50041 (on the NR R528). I've attached a PDF of NR's pipes which are about 98% close to scale. They need minor tweaking for them to be 100% scale - just dimensional stuff. Handy when planning exhaust setups on plans - particularly with RE engines.

David

keithtsr

My Feedback: (3)

I have to Speed 13 engines. I have one in a Dirty Birdy, that the one I can't get to settle down. It runs rich then tries to lean out and if I point the nose up she really tries to lean out. I have changed the tank, the fuel lines and still have the issue. The DB fuselage only allows you to put the tank kind of high so it really gravity feeds. So I'll keep playing with it till I get it figured out.

doxilia

My Feedback: (3)

Keith,

usually we have issues with the tank being too low. Why can't the tank be lowered from the canopy area - retracts? Is your Speed 13 side mounted or inverted?

David

keithtsr

My Feedback: (3)

The engine is side mounted. The retract well is in the way. Don't get me wrong, I know this is going to be one stout engine I just need to get it broke in first then try to dial it in.

doxilia

My Feedback: (3)

Yup. Mine started behaving nicely after 80 oz of fuel.

Mind you, it was pretty solid from the get go. But I did break it in on a stand. The first day, out of the box, I was unable to get the engine to require more than one hand flip to start... Ignition, flip, vrooom!

David

keithtsr

My Feedback: (3)

I had pretty good luck with my first tank set up but the tank was aft about 4 inches. The motor started right up and ran pretty good for a first run. Then as time went on or should I say as tanks of fuel went on it began to run erratic. So I thought I had the tank to far back so I changed the tank out for a round one that would slide up close to the firewall but was pretty high up. So now it floods real easy.

I'll get it, the motor has all the potential to be a beast! I really not concerned until I get a few more tanks of fuel through it.

CafeenMan

Keith - have you considered using a pump to even out the fuel flow?

I came into this thread because I have four NovaRossi engines coming in today. Three of them are identical rear-exhaust .15 engines and one is a side exhaust muffled .12. I'm hoping all the .15's are well behaved because the plan is to take one of my designs (http://www.airfieldmodels.com/galler...lpaper/003.jpg) and kind of meld it with Dave Platt's Duellist but with three engines. Wing area will be 450 - 500 inches I'm thinking. Nothing is drawn yet... just ideas floating around in the vast space between my ears.

keithtsr

My Feedback: (3)

I have thought about using a pump but it's way to early just yet. I need to put more fuel through the engine then look at things.

I really feel like I'll be ok.

You will love your NovaRossi engines, they are super nice.

CafeenMan

Well, I'm not loving them at this moment because I'm nocturnal but I have to sign for them and don't want to miss FedEx so I'm staying up. At this time I plan on buying at least four more of them if I like these. One more .15, a .21, a .28 and a .61.

If glow is on the way out then I'm going kicking and screaming.

Timthetoolman1

My Feedback: (6)

Keith, if it's an ARF could you mount it upright and order a new cowl or repair that one. You could try it without the cowl to see if it fixes it.

On my 60CR the tank is about 3/4" above the carb but I use a bladder tank. I really have a love/hate relationship for those tanks. I hate the way you have to fill it but I love the reliability I get from them.

I did notice on the CR it wouldn't hand flip at first but with a half gallon through it I can hand flip it.

doxilia

My Feedback: (3)

Tim,

Keith's NR's are Speed 13's so they are RE. On the DB ARF this would mean tunneling through the canopy (and the tank!?) for the pipe. However, Paul is running a Speed 13 side mounted on his DB ARF. I believe he's using a Sullivan cylindrical long 16 oz tank. As far as I know, no issues.

David

Timthetoolman1

My Feedback: (6)

Ah, I see. Well, did you know Old McDonald was a very bad speller?

keithtsr

My Feedback: (3)

E I E I OOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOO

David is right it is a rear exhaust engine. I feel good about it coming on after break in. I just wonder....if letting it sleep with me has caused this problem.

jmb52760

I stepped away from this thread and a lot has been said. Forgive me if I don't address each issue individually, I'll just describe my experience with this plane:

I just drilled and tapped that pipe. I used a #29 drill and an 8-32 tap. I didn't tighten the nipple very much. It is working fine.

The engine runs fantastically. After breaking it in rich, I gradually leaned it after each flight. It is now "on the pipe" and putting out almost too much power for this plane. I made a mistake and left the throttle open in a dive and ran into flutter. I immediately shut the engine down and got the plane back but with one of the ailerons pulled away from the spar.

I now know not to do that.

The testbed airplane in the photo is a ModelTech Calypso modified to take this engine in the upright position. It had been previously modified for fixed gear. I know it's ugly but it's just a test of the engine. I am working to find a suitable build project for my new NovaRossi.

I'll probably buy the lower-rise header soon.

EscapeFlyer

My Feedback: (1)

May I suggest a plans build Arrow...

Or this: http://www.bridiairplanes.com/hangar/great-escape.html

I am very happy you like your NR!

A proper 1.5" Fuse Top Header will not be a problem. Trust me. No... seriously. Trust me!

Brian

doxilia

My Feedback: (3)

Cafeen,

I just wanted to comment that I enjoy your website and visit it on occasion when it comes up in hits of something I'm searching for. Some great info you've compiled.

You're going to enjoy these NR's. The 28 in particular I'm quite fond of although I have yet to run it or fly it. I've just had my eye on it for a while.

The engine is on the table as it is being used in stages of model design development. This engine is designed to put out power at high rpm so expect to turn smallish 8" props to get there. I'm interested in seeing how it performs on 9x5, 9x6 props as the engine will go into a pattern design. I have the standard NR 40040 fuse top header and muffled 50041 pipe for it. There is an 85 mm (~3.4") longer, 10 g heavier, quiet pipe as well (50042) if your model can accommodate it.

One thing I've noticed with most all NR engines is that they are optimized for power with short crankcases and shafts (among other things). As a result, the high speed needle on the the R528 has 1.5 mm clearance from the blade of an 8x6 prop when turned with the "L" facing forward. This is naturally too close for comfort so plan on using a spinner no matter what, There are 3/16" left of thread on the prop shaft simply with the prop bolted on - just enough for a spinner backplate. The prop nut is 5 mm thick and if slightly more thread is needed with a thicker backplate, a 3 mm nut (giving another 1/16" of thread) can probably be sourced. Alternatively, A Tru-Turn prop extension adapter can be used in conjunction with their spinners. Once the spinner backplate is on, the prop should be sufficiently forward for adjustment comfort. It would be intersting to know whether the 15 and 21 present the same situation.

I took a couple of snaps of it below. Maybe I should add one with the pipe as well.

Mitch, apologies but you have begun a NR engine thread!

David

doxilia

My Feedback: (3)

Excellent suggestion Brian!

However, if you want to build the ultimate RE pattern monster for which the Speed 13 is primo, viddi down!

I'll be conservative and estimate a 6 month ETA to available reality - probably early Spring.

David

P.S. Mitch, the Speed 13 will blow the ARC Calypso apart given enough time. You need something serious for that brute!

flywilly

My Feedback: (121)

Hi David,
Really nice CAD work on your updated Brushfire plans. Don will be producing a glass/foam version sometime soon, too. The original Brushfire plans resulted in a somewhat overbuilt (heavy) fuselage. I would guess an easy 6-8 ounces weight saving in your fuselage construction. I'd love to get a set of your plans as I have a Jett 120 rear exhaust which would be perfect for a slightly larger version.
regards,
will