zigsaw Atlanta
10-09-2014, 11:10 AM
#51
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Had some time today so made a servo tray and glued it in place ,cut the spinner to size and did some work on the bellypan putting in the front holding pin and reinforcing the front of the belly pan a little to give the pin some meat to hold on to 
Last edited by boomerik; 10-09-2014 at 11:13 AM.
10-09-2014, 11:40 AM
#53
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This adjustable pipe mount has worked really well for me. Just a simple brass piece and grommet from Home Depot.
I used one servo for the retracts and made a crank that went through the wing. I would not do it again. I used two servos on my Conquest IVe and I am MUCH happier.
Doug
10-09-2014, 11:47 AM
#54
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Yeah, i like that pipe mount simple and solid i think i`m going to make something like that to ( if you don`t mind me "stealing" your design 
) , for the nosegear i used a small servo op front for the steering and used the mk crank to connect to the retract servo i must say as far as i can see now it works very well .
Can i ask why you don`t like the crank through the wing with one central retracts servo ?
Erik
) , for the nosegear i used a small servo op front for the steering and used the mk crank to connect to the retract servo i must say as far as i can see now it works very well .Can i ask why you don`t like the crank through the wing with one central retracts servo ?
Erik
10-09-2014, 01:15 PM
#55
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Erik,
I would be honored if you "stole" my idea.
On your nose steering put your steering servo on channel 7 and slave it to channel 4 with a mix. Then set the mix to "off" when the gear is up. Then you can trim the ground steering of of your plane separately from the rudder and the servo does not expend any energy when the gear is up.
I used a crank through the wing that was a copy of the MK one. It works but it is a pain in the butt to set up when you get to the field. Think about this....The action on the front retract is "pull" is down, so when the gear is up the push rod is "in." I have mine set up so that there is a "Z'" bend on the wing crank side and a clevis on the retract side. So I had to have a small temp push rod in the nose gear for storage. (otherwise you cant get the gear down- you can see it in the pictures I posted) To set up I pull the wing out of its bag (The mains are "up"), I have to extend the main gear down, then I put the wing on, detach the temp nose gear push rod, attach the rod from the crank, then put the gear down so I can put the pipe on and the belly pan, then put the gear down to fly!!!!! Just not the simplicity that I need in my life right now.
The nose gear did fail a few times because of the system as well. The MK crank system WILL work most of the time. The good news is that the YS head comes through the belly pan so when it fails is ruins your head and not your nice paint job!!
I'm not trying to tell you to change what you are doing. Just sharing my experiences. Please keep the pictures coming and good luck.
Doug
I would be honored if you "stole" my idea.
On your nose steering put your steering servo on channel 7 and slave it to channel 4 with a mix. Then set the mix to "off" when the gear is up. Then you can trim the ground steering of of your plane separately from the rudder and the servo does not expend any energy when the gear is up.
I used a crank through the wing that was a copy of the MK one. It works but it is a pain in the butt to set up when you get to the field. Think about this....The action on the front retract is "pull" is down, so when the gear is up the push rod is "in." I have mine set up so that there is a "Z'" bend on the wing crank side and a clevis on the retract side. So I had to have a small temp push rod in the nose gear for storage. (otherwise you cant get the gear down- you can see it in the pictures I posted) To set up I pull the wing out of its bag (The mains are "up"), I have to extend the main gear down, then I put the wing on, detach the temp nose gear push rod, attach the rod from the crank, then put the gear down so I can put the pipe on and the belly pan, then put the gear down to fly!!!!! Just not the simplicity that I need in my life right now.
The nose gear did fail a few times because of the system as well. The MK crank system WILL work most of the time. The good news is that the YS head comes through the belly pan so when it fails is ruins your head and not your nice paint job!!
I'm not trying to tell you to change what you are doing. Just sharing my experiences. Please keep the pictures coming and good luck.
Doug
10-09-2014, 01:44 PM
#56
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Doug,
Any ideas/experiences are welcome , Also for me building it up at the field is going to be a bit of work connecting the gear ,putting the pipe in place and then attaching the bellypan but when i go flying any of my (old) pattern planes (i only have old ones
) i usually go for a day or long afternoon and put in attleast a few flights so spending some time building it up is ok for me differently said i accept it as something that comes with these kinda planes where everything is enclosed .
Erik
Any ideas/experiences are welcome , Also for me building it up at the field is going to be a bit of work connecting the gear ,putting the pipe in place and then attaching the bellypan but when i go flying any of my (old) pattern planes (i only have old ones
) i usually go for a day or long afternoon and put in attleast a few flights so spending some time building it up is ok for me differently said i accept it as something that comes with these kinda planes where everything is enclosed .Erik
10-10-2014, 09:12 AM
#57
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Made a bracket for the exhaust today and an exit pipe for the exhaust so it goes out from the bellypan ,not much but seeing i didn`t do anything on it for 2 years i`m making progress
Erik
Erik
10-10-2014, 10:51 AM
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Erik,
Great progress.
On my Atlanta I used the "cam lock" to hold down the front of the belly pan and a small allen head screw at the rear. I put a plywood plate across the back of the belly pan (it looks like you did too) and put a plywood plate with a blind nut in the fuse to accept the bolt. I would put the belly pan on and then just push the exhaust stinger aside to bolt the back of the pan on. The attached photo shows the bolt hole location.
Hope this helps.
Doug
Great progress.
On my Atlanta I used the "cam lock" to hold down the front of the belly pan and a small allen head screw at the rear. I put a plywood plate across the back of the belly pan (it looks like you did too) and put a plywood plate with a blind nut in the fuse to accept the bolt. I would put the belly pan on and then just push the exhaust stinger aside to bolt the back of the pan on. The attached photo shows the bolt hole location.
Hope this helps.
Doug
10-10-2014, 11:21 AM
#59
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Dominick,
nice work indeed!
I'm amazed that those black rubber grommets, as thick as they may be, don't melt under the heat of the pipe stinger. Even thick silicone gets way too hot too touch albeit at the header/pipe junction. It would be interesting to measure exhaust nozzle temperatures with an IR gauge on a 15K rpm YS SS. Doug, any idea how much yours tachs?
David
nice work indeed!
I'm amazed that those black rubber grommets, as thick as they may be, don't melt under the heat of the pipe stinger. Even thick silicone gets way too hot too touch albeit at the header/pipe junction. It would be interesting to measure exhaust nozzle temperatures with an IR gauge on a 15K rpm YS SS. Doug, any idea how much yours tachs?
David
10-10-2014, 11:49 AM
#60
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Doug,
I was thinking about how to secure the belly pan this afternoon and also thought of the way you did it or using one of those cockpit latches but i think i`ll go also with the screw in the back since like that you won`t see anything poking out .
David,
I still have to see if the rubber will hold up but i think it will because with my deception (with an RE engine so the pipe running through the cockpit) i can almost hold on to the exhaust tip after a flight so i think it will hold up .
Erik
I was thinking about how to secure the belly pan this afternoon and also thought of the way you did it or using one of those cockpit latches but i think i`ll go also with the screw in the back since like that you won`t see anything poking out .
David,
I still have to see if the rubber will hold up but i think it will because with my deception (with an RE engine so the pipe running through the cockpit) i can almost hold on to the exhaust tip after a flight so i think it will hold up .
Erik
10-16-2014, 12:24 PM
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Did a bit more work on the atlanta , got the throttle cable in place and glued in the back piece of the rudder and started taking out the motor and nose gear so i can get the fuse ready for some color.
Next up deciding what kinda color scheme i`m going to put on it (not a very creative mind : ) )
Erik
Next up deciding what kinda color scheme i`m going to put on it (not a very creative mind : ) )
Erik
11-30-2014, 11:46 PM
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Erik
12-01-2014, 08:26 AM
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Erik
03-10-2015, 02:38 PM
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It`s getting nice weather again here so about time to get the atlanta maidened was just wondering if any of you guys could tell me where the cg should be more or less since on the "plans"they are not very clear on it
Erik
Erik
