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Atlanta

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Old 10-01-2012, 08:16 AM
  #26
Atlanta 60
 
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Quote:
ORIGINAL: KaP2011

Wow! That is a beautiful plane.
Boy is it ever!! WOW!!



P.S. Thanks Dave & Dave!!


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Old 10-01-2012, 11:28 AM
  #27
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ok mine has flaps did the Atlanta have flaps?
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Old 10-01-2012, 02:12 PM
  #28
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The kit showed flaps. As Iunderstand it, most Japanese designs from this time period had flaps. All of the Atlantas that were competing when Ibuilt mine (+/- 1986)did not have flaps.

Personal choice Iguess.

Doug
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Old 10-01-2012, 02:13 PM
  #29
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ok thanks this one has it
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Old 10-01-2012, 02:16 PM
  #30
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Plan courtesy of Paul Pappas.

Doug

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Old 10-01-2012, 06:39 PM
  #31
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http://www.rcuniverse.com/market/item.cfm?itemId=873340 offset hatori header for sale in engine listings
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Old 10-06-2012, 06:08 PM
  #32
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OMG Doug,

That is EXACTLY what I'm talking about ! ! ! ! ! ! Now everyone, please excuse me while I shut down my computer so I can clean up my mess from drooling all over my keyboard.......LOL

David
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Old 10-08-2012, 07:43 AM
  #33
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Default RE: Atlanta

This is a new one. No paint and it still looks nice.
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Old 10-08-2012, 10:16 AM
  #34
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Default RE: Atlanta

I have one of those just like that!
Hey Don, are you going to make us some Atlanta headers for OS's and YS's?
Chris...
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Old 10-08-2012, 10:37 AM
  #35
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I have one like that as well. It is indeed beautiful, even without paint. Don does a superb job on these fuses, light and strong. You can't go wrong ordering from Don.
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Old 10-08-2012, 11:31 AM
  #36
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No kidding, David.
I am looking forward to my new Arrow kit from Don. He's already shipped 5 kits I think he told me, and they now have bulkheads installed. (He says the European, Med and Middle Eastern guys love 'em. Wolfgang Matt must be popular, I love it too.)
His kits have really come along quickly and get better and better. And so many different designs available. He's made 20 molds, or more, of full fuselage kits in what, 3 years? And those are just the Classics, he does Giant Scale stuff too. How does he do it? He's a machine!
Chris...
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Old 10-13-2012, 07:19 PM
  #37
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Well Thanks for the kind comments you guys. It's a labor of love for the Classics that I always wished I could have years ago.
I
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Old 10-16-2012, 03:15 PM
  #38
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ok started the YS 60 today im going by the manual as shown to hook up check valve shows arrow forward and goes to press line and aft fitting on the motor and fuel feed to front fitting is this correct, on way it runs is with it hooked totally opposite the way it should onluy then it idles good but transition to full throttle it sputters and quits
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Old 10-16-2012, 03:37 PM
  #39
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check and make sure check valve is free and clean.

What % nitro and oil %


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Old 10-16-2012, 04:55 PM
  #40
jetmech43
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its 15% coolpower
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Old 10-16-2012, 07:50 PM
  #41
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The check valve is one way pointing into the tank vent. It should not let anything out of the vent. You also have to run the engine for a minute to let the tank pressurize; it will not take throttle until then.
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Old 10-16-2012, 09:24 PM
  #42
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You are correct that the fuel line should be on the forward fitting and the vent line with the check valve should be on the rear fitting. It will run the other way around at idle but will always quit when you advance the throttle. Spin the engine with the starter for 10-15 seconds with a full tank. Then disconnect the fuel line. You should get a stream of fuel, not just a dribble. If not, you have a bad check valve, a backwards check valve or a leak in the fuel system. There could also be bad plumbing.
John
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Old 10-17-2012, 04:36 AM
  #43
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Im thinking it s the tank im useing, believe its sucking air, im sure the check valve is good, going to try another tank
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Old 10-17-2012, 04:40 AM
  #44
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going to bring the wing by some time this week Tom
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Old 10-18-2012, 04:03 PM
  #45
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ok check valve is fine press is good from tank, but doesnt seem to be going int to engine, should you be able to blow through the forward or aft nipple fitting and hear air going through?
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Old 10-18-2012, 08:46 PM
  #46
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jetmech43,

I was having the same problem with my YS45. Would run like crap as I tried to go to full throrttle or would just quit. I replaced all the gaskets, o-rings, and silcone parts but haven't had a chance to run it yet, hopefully It will solve the problem. What lead me to do this was mainly the fact that I could only get 2lbs of tank pressure.

According to the RCM Ys 60 article the engine won't run right unless the tank pressure is between 6 to 8lbs. So this led me to the regulator plunger on the bottom of the engine. On my YS 45 the regulator plunger was in two pieces.

The plastic or silcone piece that is on the metal pin just fell off. I'm not sure if this was the cause so I decided to replace all the soft parts to make sure. Main reason for replacing all the soft parts is if the crankcase has a leak you will never get enough pressure to pressurize the tank to the optimal value. This is why I basically rebuilt the engine with all new soft parts.

I did a test with my Robart retract pump (with presure gauge) after I started having problems by placing a tee in the pressure line between the check valve and tank and connecting the pump line to the tee. I used an electric starter to turn the engine over for about 20 seconds and couldn't get more than 2lbs of pressure which i didn't think was right. I next use the retract pump to pump up the tank to 10lbs and didn't lose a 1/2 pound after letting it sit for 30 minutes. So at the the pressurized tank and check valve part of the system was in good order.

Below is a diagram from the manual that I put together to show the pumped air direction and the fuel direction. I don't quite get what part your trying to blow air though so I though this diagram may help.

I hope to put mine on the test stand this weekend to see if the problem is fixed.

Bryan

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Old 10-19-2012, 02:27 AM
  #47
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Im trying to blow through where the fuel lines go and thanks I will check the plunger
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Old 10-19-2012, 02:32 AM
  #48
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I believe tank pressure is good it will shoot fuel across my garage when I remove the fuel line
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Old 10-19-2012, 11:06 AM
  #49
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Default RE: Atlanta

Here is a closer look at the 3 chamber YS pressurized Fuel Delivery System via diagram and the actual internal parts.

>>

Bryan has it right, you need to see 6 to 9 psi pressure for the engine to run correctly, it always comes back to the regulator when these motors are having this issue. You should notice that the fuel tank expands.

>>

These regulator screws were usually factory set and only are intended for very small adjustments to the low speed mixture, start out setting your regulator screw protruding from the body to 0.009 to 0.010 of an inch.

>>

To increase the regulated pressure you need to reduce spring compression by going counter clockwise with the brass adjustment screw, in other words rich, it’s opposite what you would normally think.

>>

Even though you’re getting fuel shooting out, pressure still can be low. For example running a regular engine with only pipe pressure and a one way check valve will give you fuel shooting out when you disconnect the fuel line.

>>

Have you tried leaving the igniter on the glow plug during you throttle up test runs?

>>

By the way what plug are you using?>>[/i]

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Old 10-19-2012, 11:31 AM
  #50
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OS 5 plug and yes I leave it on for throttle up, im going to pull the regulator apart and see if its serviceable
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