Dalotel Build
#28
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RE: Dalotel Build
ORIGINAL: proparc
What are the dimensions and specs for the 60 size Dalotel?
Thanks
What are the dimensions and specs for the 60 size Dalotel?
Thanks
#29
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RE: Dalotel Build
How did you know I moved to Texas? I relocated in 2011. Still with my CL stunt but, I will be replacing 72mz Futaba six with a new 2.4 gig unit. You won't believe this but, within 30 days of hitting town, I was out in a flying trimming CL stunt ships for the local flyers LOL.
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RE: Dalotel Build
SRT,
While you're going over your equipment plans for the bird, what are you planning for the flying surfaces and decks? I take it you will be doing foam but I was curious about you choice of skins and any other structural elements you may add to them, if any. Will you be depleting the 1/16" balsa some more?
David
While you're going over your equipment plans for the bird, what are you planning for the flying surfaces and decks? I take it you will be doing foam but I was curious about you choice of skins and any other structural elements you may add to them, if any. Will you be depleting the 1/16" balsa some more?
David
#31
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RE: Dalotel Build
David, the plan it to use cut foam parts for the turtle deck, hatch, canopy ( yes canopy ) wings and stab. All will be sheeted with 1/16. I have to get motivated enough to pull the Rossi 60 out of my warbird race plane and then I can see what bends the header is going to require. Don't want to get too far on the fuse build until the pipe is sorted out.
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RE: Dalotel Build
Well, that raises an interesting question (same as the one I just had in drawing up foam cutting templates for some fuse decks):
How or can one cut compound curve foam parts such as a canopy? Maybe the foam can be milled but I didn't think the hot wire technique would allow an arc to be cut in foam in two directions simultaneously. If I'm wrong, I'd love to see how it's done!
David
How or can one cut compound curve foam parts such as a canopy? Maybe the foam can be milled but I didn't think the hot wire technique would allow an arc to be cut in foam in two directions simultaneously. If I'm wrong, I'd love to see how it's done!
David
#34
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RE: Dalotel Build
Turtle decks can be a challenge. the tough part is the aft section because of the size differential. What I tend to do is extend the bottom of the rear template to minimize the differential then trim the excess off the bottom after sheeting. The Dalotel canopy is fairly unique as it has no compound curves. I will cut and sheet the main section making it a little long then cut a small section off, taper the rear edge of the smaller section and use it for the front of the canopy.
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RE: Dalotel Build
ORIGINAL: speedracerntrixie
Turtle decks can be a challenge. the tough part is the aft section because of the size differential. What I tend to do is extend the bottom of the rear template to minimize the differential then trim the excess off the bottom after sheeting. The Dalotel canopy is fairly unique as it has no compound curves. I will cut and sheet the main section making it a little long then cut a small section off, taper the rear edge of the smaller section and use it for the front of the canopy.
Turtle decks can be a challenge. the tough part is the aft section because of the size differential. What I tend to do is extend the bottom of the rear template to minimize the differential then trim the excess off the bottom after sheeting. The Dalotel canopy is fairly unique as it has no compound curves. I will cut and sheet the main section making it a little long then cut a small section off, taper the rear edge of the smaller section and use it for the front of the canopy.
As I was drawing a rear turtle deck foam template (for our Chippy project on RCG), I was just wondering about the height and arc length differential between the front and rear. The wire must travel that much less in the back. I wonder if one could device a variable temperature wire length such that the rear cuts at a slower rate than the front, then the differential wouldn't be so much of an issue. Maybe it is easy to solve with a "dummy" block of foam on the underside of the rear deck which provides an equal path length to the front template cut as you're suggesting I think.
David
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RE: Dalotel Build
ORIGINAL: PatternPilot
we cut turtle decks out of foam all the time and sheet them....
I'm thinking a canopy could be done also with the right templates.
s.
we cut turtle decks out of foam all the time and sheet them....
I'm thinking a canopy could be done also with the right templates.
s.
Here's a scenario: suppose the fuse under the deck you want to cut has an airfoil shape to the sides. How do you track that airfoil in the foam when you cut with a front and rear template? Sort of tricky to produce with a taut straight hot wire.
That's what I meant by a two dimensional arc - or an arc in two planes.
David
#38
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RE: Dalotel Build
A good friend campaigned the same engine in Pattern 18-20 years ago. Simply stretched the pipe and turned a 12x12 apc at 11K or so. That engine definitely has the brass beans to haul that much prop.
A 60"x62" plane at 8 1/2 pounds might be a bit heavy. Hopefully it can be turned out lighter
A 60"x62" plane at 8 1/2 pounds might be a bit heavy. Hopefully it can be turned out lighter
#39
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RE: Dalotel Build
Matt, I have been running the engine with the pipe length plug to end of stinger at 26". It pulled my 6 lb race plane well enough to win a local championship this season. Have to raise the bar for next season so I have a Rossi 90 FIRE on the way. Hate to waste a good engine , the Dalotel build seemed like the logical way to go. Yes 8.5 lbs may be a little porky and I will try to get her as light as I can but remember that the engine is heavy for a 60 and then add in the pipe, retracts and 6 servos. It all adds up fast. Not sure how I want to finish it either. I do a pretty darned good job with Monokote but I have a guy at work who is an absolute master with silkspan and dope. He has won several CL concourse awards and won once at the AMA model show. He has offered to have me bring it over when framed up and he will teach me all his secrets. The only problem with that is it will take longer to finish as it does to build. Difficult offer to pass up so I will most likely go that route.
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RE: Dalotel Build
Given the construction techniques planned and the gear and finish proposed, I'll venture she can be brought in at 7.5 - 8.0 lbs. it is roughly the same dimension and construction of a Calypso which I know will be in that ballpark.
Also, at least two of the servos can be minis and two can be micros.
David
Also, at least two of the servos can be minis and two can be micros.
David
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RE: Dalotel Build
Yup, interesting. The wing tube center section provides another "former".
Is that reinforcement to the fuse sides where the tube goes, ply or glass? Or something else?
David
Is that reinforcement to the fuse sides where the tube goes, ply or glass? Or something else?
David
#43
RE: Dalotel Build
ORIGINAL: speedracerntrixie
Matt, I have been running the engine with the pipe length plug to end of stinger at 26". It pulled my 6 lb race plane well enough to win a local championship this season. Have to raise the bar for next season so I have a Rossi 90 FIRE on the way. Hate to waste a good engine , the Dalotel build seemed like the logical way to go. Yes 8.5 lbs may be a little porky and I will try to get her as light as I can but remember that the engine is heavy for a 60 and then add in the pipe, retracts and 6 servos. It all adds up fast. Not sure how I want to finish it either. I do a pretty darned good job with Monokote but I have a guy at work who is an absolute master with silkspan and dope. He has won several CL concourse awards and won once at the AMA model show. He has offered to have me bring it over when framed up and he will teach me all his secrets. The only problem with that is it will take longer to finish as it does to build. Difficult offer to pass up so I will most likely go that route.
Matt, I have been running the engine with the pipe length plug to end of stinger at 26". It pulled my 6 lb race plane well enough to win a local championship this season. Have to raise the bar for next season so I have a Rossi 90 FIRE on the way. Hate to waste a good engine , the Dalotel build seemed like the logical way to go. Yes 8.5 lbs may be a little porky and I will try to get her as light as I can but remember that the engine is heavy for a 60 and then add in the pipe, retracts and 6 servos. It all adds up fast. Not sure how I want to finish it either. I do a pretty darned good job with Monokote but I have a guy at work who is an absolute master with silkspan and dope. He has won several CL concourse awards and won once at the AMA model show. He has offered to have me bring it over when framed up and he will teach me all his secrets. The only problem with that is it will take longer to finish as it does to build. Difficult offer to pass up so I will most likely go that route.
Chris...
#44
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RE: Dalotel Build
ORIGINAL: doxilia
Yup, interesting. The wing tube center section provides another "former".
Is that reinforcement to the fuse sides where the tube goes, ply or glass? Or something else?
David
Yup, interesting. The wing tube center section provides another "former".
Is that reinforcement to the fuse sides where the tube goes, ply or glass? Or something else?
David
#46
Senior Member
RE: Dalotel Build
ORIGINAL: speedracerntrixie
Matt, I have been running the engine with the pipe length plug to end of stinger at 26". It pulled my 6 lb race plane well enough to win a local championship this season. Have to raise the bar for next season so I have a Rossi 90 FIRE on the way. Hate to waste a good engine , the Dalotel build seemed like the logical way to go. Yes 8.5 lbs may be a little porky and I will try to get her as light as I can but remember that the engine is heavy for a 60 and then add in the pipe, retracts and 6 servos. It all adds up fast. Not sure how I want to finish it either. I do a pretty darned good job with Monokote but I have a guy at work who is an absolute master with silkspan and dope. He has won several CL concourse awards and won once at the AMA model show. He has offered to have me bring it over when framed up and he will teach me all his secrets. The only problem with that is it will take longer to finish as it does to build. Difficult offer to pass up so I will most likely go that route.
Matt, I have been running the engine with the pipe length plug to end of stinger at 26". It pulled my 6 lb race plane well enough to win a local championship this season. Have to raise the bar for next season so I have a Rossi 90 FIRE on the way. Hate to waste a good engine , the Dalotel build seemed like the logical way to go. Yes 8.5 lbs may be a little porky and I will try to get her as light as I can but remember that the engine is heavy for a 60 and then add in the pipe, retracts and 6 servos. It all adds up fast. Not sure how I want to finish it either. I do a pretty darned good job with Monokote but I have a guy at work who is an absolute master with silkspan and dope. He has won several CL concourse awards and won once at the AMA model show. He has offered to have me bring it over when framed up and he will teach me all his secrets. The only problem with that is it will take longer to finish as it does to build. Difficult offer to pass up so I will most likely go that route.
Well, 25-30 years ago we built and flew 8 1/2 pounders all the time with 700 sq inch wings. In the days of glassed balsa. I agree tho, a (well done) silkspanned / doped covering is hard to beat for lightness, including the plastic films. A painted finish is always the first thought and usually the last. The only thing against it is lack of durability.
On the pipe, as I recall, exhaust flange to reflector baffle length was round 17"!? Never measured it to stinger. As late as 20 years ago, most 60's tuned like that could haul a 13x10 at around 10K. I was partial to the 12x12 apc tho on the YS60. The YS 60 short strokes always seemed to run better for me and the Rossi 60 ran better for my friend. I guess it's what you get used to and like.
I am a bit curious about how one these classic birds would work with a current day 15 cc piped petrol engine. I am almost tempted to try it