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  1. #51
    speedracerntrixie's Avatar
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    RE: Dalotel Build

    My OCD got the best of me and I had to button up the bottom and finish off the pipe tunnel.
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  2. #52
    MTK's Avatar
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    RE: Dalotel Build

    BME 15cc. It is a converted ST 90 side dumper. It's pricy at 400$ but probably worth it. BME does pretty good work. The added pieces are piston rod with needle bearings, walbro carb and CDI (CH I think). Plus their workmanship of assembly. Advertised to swing a 14x8 or 13x10 at 8K, but I'll bet that on pipe it will do better than that. Plus, it sips petrol, mixed 24:1 - 30:1......I imagine a 6 oz tank lasts 20 minutes or longer since you won't need to use much more than 1/2 throttle.

    On my OS33GT powered 11 1/4#model I use an 11 oz tank. It lasts through 2 Masters sequences plus2 minutes. That's around 16 minutes of flying with an ounce reserve. Really irritates my flying buds that fly E Pattern, but at least it's less time than the 16 ouncer I used at first. That would lastabout 25 minutes or longerandreally pissed them off and tuckered me out totally.
    Regards,
    MattK
    (Rcmaster199@aol.com)

  3. #53
    speedracerntrixie's Avatar
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    RE: Dalotel Build

    What makes a Dalo so unique is the rudder and canopy, the rudder is built, still working on the rest.
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  4. #54
    speedracerntrixie's Avatar
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    RE: Dalotel Build

    Pulled the engine and pipe out of my race plane to get it fitted to the firewall. Not sure if I am going to keep the Picco carb yet. I'm hoping that when the 90 shows up that will replace this 60 in the race plane that the carbs will be interchangeable.
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  5. #55
    speedracerntrixie's Avatar
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    RE: Dalotel Build

    I got some foam cutting and sheeting done yesterday. Only the turtle deck at this point. I used 2" blue insulation foam and cut a right and left side. Sheeted the sides seperatly and then joined them together. Pics show the turtle deck just after glueing to fuse. I also sanded the fuse bottom to match the cowl. Canopy/hatch is next and will use the same blue foam.
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  6. #56

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    RE: Dalotel Build

    The Dalotel fin & rudder are very distinctive but have you got the shape right? Perhaps its an optical illusion but the shape on yours seems to differ from the 3 view and plans I have. And of course there is no balancing part to the rudder on your model. Perhaps yours is not intended to be really scale?

  7. #57
    speedracerntrixie's Avatar
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    RE: Dalotel Build

    No it is not intended to be exact scale. Some liberties have been taken to enhance it's performance as a model. If you look closer at the last photo set I posted, the counterbalance has been seperated from the fin and put on the rudder. The fin does have more cord again for better performance.

  8. #58
    speedracerntrixie's Avatar
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    RE: Dalotel Build

    On Christmas eve I got the foam canopy and hatch cut, applied the sheeting and got them into a vaccum bag. This morning I spent an hour rough trimming the parts to shape. Now i need to figure out a removeable frame that I can bond the peices to. may take a day or two to figure this one out. Dosent help much that I woke with a cold. Who knows, while on cold meds it may end up looking like a P-51 LOL
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  9. #59
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    RE: Dalotel Build

    looks good...Kinda building with a six pack in the shop with you ... feel better soon.
    Scott Anderson - CPA #2 - www.ClassicPatternAssociation.com - Team Airtronics SD10G - NSRCA 529 - VRCS 236

  10. #60
    MTK's Avatar
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    RE: Dalotel Build


    ORIGINAL: speedracerntrixie

    On Christmas eve I got the foam canopy and hatch cut, applied the sheeting and got them into a vaccum bag. This morning I spent an hour rough trimming the parts to shape. Now i need to figure out a removeable frame that I can bond the peices to. may take a day or two to figure this one out. Dosent help much that I woke with a cold. Who knows, while on cold meds it may end up looking like a P-51 LOL
    Looking nice SRT. Don't you just love the smell of balsa dust in the morning?? It makes me sneeze something terrible however. Maybe that's all it is, just balsa dust getting in your nose.

    Hope it isn't what I've just about kicked off me. It grabbed hold o'me last Friday and just kicked my ***** for the last5 days (some vacation, huh!). It's been making it's rounds and it's about as tough a strain as we've had over the past decade or so. Prescription meds required on this one
    Regards,
    MattK
    (Rcmaster199@aol.com)

  11. #61
    speedracerntrixie's Avatar
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    RE: Dalotel Build

    Thanks Matt, Feeling better today so I may get around to working on the canopy frame some today. I'm on vacation until Jan 2 so I was hopeing to make some good progress. I am very curious to see what she weighs at this point, feels light though. I suppose I need to order up a new scale.

  12. #62
    speedracerntrixie's Avatar
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    RE: Dalotel Build

    Work on the hatch has been slow but it's mostly there now. Had to use more filler then I wanted to but being the hatch that gets more wear and tear then other parts, the plan is to glass and paint. Next I need to cut some templates for the wings and stabs.


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  13. #63
    speedracerntrixie's Avatar
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    RE: Dalotel Build

    Feeling a bit better today so I thought I would finish up on the hatch mounts. The hatch has 4 tabs that will insert into the fuse. What I needed to do was build up the inside of the fuse where the tab is located. This was done with a sandwich of .010 G-10 and a layer of 1/8" hard balsa. On the balsa side I added layers of 3 oz cloth bonded with CA until I got the thickness close to the inside fuse rail. Then the sandwich was cut into 4 tabs slightly larger then the conopy tabs.
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  14. #64
    speedracerntrixie's Avatar
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    RE: Dalotel Build

    The next step was to locate holes in the fuse sides. This was done with a sharpened peice of aluminum tube. The hole is cut large enough to accomindate the head of the attachement screw. After the hole is cleaned up with a file it is stengthened with some thin CA. The G-10/ balsa tabs are then glued inside the fuse with the G-10 providing a hard surface for the screw head. Carefully using an X-acto knife I put a small divot in the G-10 in the center of the hole in the fuse. The hatch was taped down and the mounting holes were carefully drilled. I self threaded some 2-56 screws into place to secure the hatch. I will be adding some blind nuts to the tabs and this step is finished.
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  15. #65
    speedracerntrixie's Avatar
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    RE: Dalotel Build

    Now I can concentrate on the stabs and wings. As luck would have it I already have the stab templates left over from my 50cc Laser build. That saves some time. Yippeee
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  16. #66
    speedracerntrixie's Avatar
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    RE: Dalotel Build

    Cut the stab cores and got the sheeting taped together. Time to break out the vaccum equipment again. I keep going back and forth on installing the elevator servos in the stabs or not. I keep thinking that we didn't do it that way back in the '80's so I should do a single servo and pushrod setup.
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  17. #67

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    RE: Dalotel Build

    I am enjoying your build. I am so jealous of your ability to just jump in a build. Thanks for sharing.

    I am a fan of the classic elevator and rudder in the fuse design that we all used in the 80's. It is simple and clean with no servos sticking out of the fuse at the rear.

    Here is a picture of my Conquest IVe set up:

    Elevator - Dave Brown arrow shaft push rod, 40/40 at servo end, 2mm (tetra tech) fork at elevator end.

    Rudder - pull-pull cables

    Just my opinion.

    Doug

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  18. #68
    speedracerntrixie's Avatar
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    RE: Dalotel Build

    Doug, thanks for the compliments. I'm almost positive that I will be doing the same setup as you. If I were to do servos in the stabs I would have to order them, right now I have all the servos I need in my inventroy going with a single elevator servo. I do need to get a header and wing tube on order soon though. Then make a desision on finishing it. I would love to paint it but know it would be lighter if I used Monokote. I have just about enough Mono on hand to do the covering as it is. One thought that does come to mind if I do paint is putting down 3/4 oz cloth with Klass Koat clear. I wonder if anyone has done that before? As of right now I plan to do the scale yellow and white scheme. Still some time to decide. I would love to have this finished up in time for the Bakersfield pattern bash. I was there last year and had a blast.

  19. #69
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    RE: Dalotel Build

    SRT,

    I have to concur with Doug. Nice progress in the little time you've been at it.

    I always thought of the Dalo as a stick deck and vertical with open canopy bird but this is quite an interesting variation on the theme and no doubt very light even though we see wood everywhere on the outside.

    I have to admit I am puzzled on your stabs though. They look like the have no LE rake and I was just wondering how (or if?) you plan to get the rake (taper) into them without wrecking the airfoil?

    Mighty thin foils as well! It should grove pretty seriously with that piped Rossi 3+2! Are you looking for a fuse top header? I need one too...

    David

  20. #70
    speedracerntrixie's Avatar
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    RE: Dalotel Build

    David, I didn't want any open framework on this one because I really want to paint it. Just going over options now. I could silkspan and dope or I'm going to do some testing with 3/4 oz cloth and Klass Koat clear. The last few models I have done with iron on coverings just did not come out as well as I would have liked. I know that Monokote has changed formulas and thats why I went to using Ultracote but now it seems that Ultacote has gone to the dark side as well. I have had problems with uniform shrinkage and the seams creep. The airfoils I used here are a couple from my 50cc Laser. The Dalo root template was the tip template from the Laser. As you can see in the pic, when it is sheeted and the LE sanded it's not super sharp. The template comes to a point to make it easier to CA the music wire on the edge. As of now, the stabs are in the bag until tomorrow and then I will get the LE and TE peices on. In a couple days they will hinged and glued onto the fuse. The header I need is only about 3/4" to 1" offset. I think I found one at Hobby Club. If that dosent work out I will break out the lathe and turn a cup then head out to Sheldons and get a header with the correct bend, cut off the flange and have a co-worker weld the cup to the tube. I rather not have to make one but I won't settle for anything that " sort of" fits.
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  21. #71
    MTK's Avatar
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    RE: Dalotel Build

    SRT,

    I love working with silkspan and dope. On the latest 2 meter design I used lite silkspan which is very very thin and lite. As long as you protect things from hanger rash, you won't have any problems.

    Just recently I looked at PlySpan (Esaki tissue) and this is also great covering material, similar in weight to lite silkspan or slightly lighter. BUT, it has grain and seems as strong wet as when dry. It produces a somewhat stiffer finished product. It may be a little easier to apply than lite silkspan. It's also quite a bit more expensive

    I think that either of these coverings will work to a lighter end result than 3/4 oz cloth because they are very thin and fill quickly. As always, YMMV
    Regards,
    MattK
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  22. #72

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    RE: Dalotel Build

    I have used the old K&B clear to attach 3/4oz cloth before. It worked great, and would still you it today if I could. I always used satin catalyst and waited about 3 days before sanding. It seemed clog the paper less when sanding with 150 and 220 dry.

  23. #73

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    RE: Dalotel Build

    Speed,

    Ihope you get it done by Bakersfield as well. Iam planning on attending and look forward to seeing your plane and meeting you. Iwill be flying my Conquest IVe there.

    David (Doxilia) and Iare jointly designing/building E-Powered versions of the MK Chipmunk 120s over on RCG. It is a similar plane to your Dalotel. However, There is no way it will be done by Bakersfield.

    Doug

  24. #74
    MTK's Avatar
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    RE: Dalotel Build


    ORIGINAL: JeffH

    I have used the old K&B clear to attach 3/4oz cloth before. It worked great, and would still you it today if I could. I always used satin catalyst and waited about 3 days before sanding. It seemed clog the paper less when sanding with 150 and 220 dry.
    Compared to PlySpan Esaki (Jap Tissue) or lite and medium silkspan, 3/4 oz glass is heavy. BTW, the KlassKote clear is about as good as the old K&B. I've used it over dope bedded silkspan with excellent results. AS ALWAYS, ymmv!
    Regards,
    MattK
    (Rcmaster199@aol.com)

  25. #75
    speedracerntrixie's Avatar
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    RE: Dalotel Build

    Doug and Matt, Thanks for the info. It's good news that if I go with silkspan and dope that I will be able to spray Klass Koat colors onto the dope. Will be finishing up on the stab and elevators tonite. Will post pics of the airplane with stabs installed soon.


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