Foam wings, mechanical retracts
#3
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Location: Apple River IL
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Yep, that's real helpful....
CM, try over on RCG in the classic forum. Lot of helpful build threads and helpful comments over there regarding layout, foam cutting, and retract install/ setup. If you can't find what you need, start your own thread and the guys will chime in with info.
hook
CM, try over on RCG in the classic forum. Lot of helpful build threads and helpful comments over there regarding layout, foam cutting, and retract install/ setup. If you can't find what you need, start your own thread and the guys will chime in with info.
hook
#4
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Would additional work need to be done on the center section to strengthen it where the retract servo goes? Getting ready to build a foam with Dirty Birdy and a Great Escape with 1/16 wing sheeting.
http://www.probuild-uk.co.uk/Resourc...-retracts.html
http://www.probuild-uk.co.uk/Resourc...-retracts.html
#5
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Would additional work need to be done on the center section to strengthen it where the retract servo goes? Getting ready to build a foam with Dirty Birdy and a Great Escape with 1/16 wing sheeting.
http://www.probuild-uk.co.uk/Resourc...-retracts.html
http://www.probuild-uk.co.uk/Resourc...-retracts.html
hook
Last edited by hook57; 01-18-2015 at 05:40 AM.
#8
I usually make the retract cutout in the core first. Glue the retract mount plate into the core before you sheet it. I cut a groove in the core and laminate a balsa spar with carbon fiber tow. Try to extend the retract plate to the spar. Glue all of this in when you apply the sheeting and bag the whole mess. I like to build the servo mount to join the spars together at the wing seam. When you glass the center section, it will tie the load paths together.
#9
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I use a hole saw to cut the wheel well then I make a verticle grained balsa box in the core. The balsa box butts up against the spar. After the core is skinned the wheel well and retract box is opened up. A ply plate is fabricated to mount the retract and installed into the box. The exterior is finished off with some balsa. When joining the wing, a vertical grained balsa/CF joiner is used and butts up to the rear edge of the spars. Pictures are worth 1000 words.
#10
Senior Member
Would additional work need to be done on the center section to strengthen it where the retract servo goes? Getting ready to build a foam with Dirty Birdy and a Great Escape with 1/16 wing sheeting.
http://www.probuild-uk.co.uk/Resourc...-retracts.html
http://www.probuild-uk.co.uk/Resourc...-retracts.html
However, the wheel wells present a compromised bottom sheet and believe it or not, I've had sheeting cracks at the wells (3/32" contest balsa to boot, back in the day). It is definitely a good idea to add 1 1/2 oz, 1 1/2" wide (bias cut is better) cloth strips around the cutouts. If you take a few moments and think through the loads the wing will see particularly when landing and/or snapping (not at the same time we hope, lol), and add some internal strips of glass, you'll build a wing for practically any rigor.
#12
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I fly off of grass and before I assembled my DB ARF wing, I drilled 1/8" holes through the gear plates, and through the wood walls under the gear plates and inject gorilla glue with a syringe. They have probably 100 landings so far, no issues. I did quirt some water in the holes first kick the GG off. One of my gear mounts was loose right out of the box.
The tuned pipe mount that they put into the wing sucks!!
The tuned pipe mount that they put into the wing sucks!!