Top Fuse pipe
#1
Thread Starter
My Feedback: (57)
Top Fuse pipe
Hi,
Im building an extremely rare vintage bird, a Funkey Phoenix 60 (Japanese bird, totally unrelated to the American version).
The model is set up for an inverted engine, with a Fuse Top enclosed pipe, which presents some hardware challenges. I'm using a recently acquired OS 61RF. Unfortunately the header I have is a Mac Products 1.5" height "S" type. It looks like I need a 2" height, and I can't find one.
Can someone point me on the direction of where I can find such a header, or someone who makes custom ones? I did find one on a japanese auction website, made by MK, but not sure how reliable that website is.
Thanks,David
Im building an extremely rare vintage bird, a Funkey Phoenix 60 (Japanese bird, totally unrelated to the American version).
The model is set up for an inverted engine, with a Fuse Top enclosed pipe, which presents some hardware challenges. I'm using a recently acquired OS 61RF. Unfortunately the header I have is a Mac Products 1.5" height "S" type. It looks like I need a 2" height, and I can't find one.
Can someone point me on the direction of where I can find such a header, or someone who makes custom ones? I did find one on a japanese auction website, made by MK, but not sure how reliable that website is.
Thanks,David
#3
Really looks like a Magic copy or knockoff. They were produced in wood form by MK and glass form by Hobby Barn in the US. Probably others as well. I had and sold the proper header years ago and know at that time they were hard to find.
You might want to search the forum for Magic threads for any insight.
You might want to search the forum for Magic threads for any insight.
#4
My Feedback: (3)
Join Date: Apr 2008
Location: Montreal,
QC, CANADA
Posts: 5,200
Likes: 0
Received 5 Likes
on
5 Posts
Definitely - the Funkey kits were knockoffs of classics. This is not a Japanese design but rather a copy of Hanno Prettner's worlds winning Magic (1981 Mexico). Changing the name was surely a way to bypass rights given by Prettner to specific manufacturers. I suspect Funkey was one of the early forays of Chinese kit production. If the kits were indeed Japanese, then they were competing directly with the famed Japanese company MK run by Masahiro Kato who manufactured the wood kit.
as SC pointed out, you're looking for a Magic 60 "S" shaped header. Hatori made such a header as you've already discovered. The Japanese site you found it on is probably legitimate. Singapore Hobbies also appears to still have them in stock so you could order directly from them:
http://www.singahobby.com/?q=node/18155
An alternative would be to use a NR header (three different fuse top heights) which is spring mounted and therefore makes engine maintenance somewhat easier but an adapter plate and exhaust nozzle would have to be manufactured for the OS much like some were recently made available by Joe on the sister RCG forum to adapt the YS RE "Classic" engine to the same headers.
David
as SC pointed out, you're looking for a Magic 60 "S" shaped header. Hatori made such a header as you've already discovered. The Japanese site you found it on is probably legitimate. Singapore Hobbies also appears to still have them in stock so you could order directly from them:
http://www.singahobby.com/?q=node/18155
An alternative would be to use a NR header (three different fuse top heights) which is spring mounted and therefore makes engine maintenance somewhat easier but an adapter plate and exhaust nozzle would have to be manufactured for the OS much like some were recently made available by Joe on the sister RCG forum to adapt the YS RE "Classic" engine to the same headers.
David
#5
Thread Starter
My Feedback: (57)
yeap, very similar but no tapered wing. If you ask me they are all Curare knock offs! :-)
The header that I have has a 1.5" offset. I really need another .5 or 1" more. 4.5" offset seems like a lot. Seems like I may have to make my own after all. If I can get my hands on some scrap 5052-O Aluminum I can bend it by hand pretty decently.
The header that I have has a 1.5" offset. I really need another .5 or 1" more. 4.5" offset seems like a lot. Seems like I may have to make my own after all. If I can get my hands on some scrap 5052-O Aluminum I can bend it by hand pretty decently.
#6
Thread Starter
My Feedback: (57)
Definitely - the Funkey kits were knockoffs of classics. This is not a Japanese design but rather a copy of Hanno Prettner's worlds winning Magic (1981 Mexico). Changing the name was surely a way to bypass rights given by Prettner to specific manufacturers. I suspect Funkey was one of the early forays of Chinese kit production. If the kits were indeed Japanese, then they were competing directly with the famed Japanese company MK run by Masahiro Kato who manufactured the wood kit.
as SC pointed out, you're looking for a Magic 60 "S" shaped header. Hatori made such a header as you've already discovered. The Japanese site you found it on is probably legitimate. Singapore Hobbies also appears to still have them in stock so you could order directly from them:
http://www.singahobby.com/?q=node/18155
An alternative would be to use a NR header (three different fuse top heights) which is spring mounted and therefore makes engine maintenance somewhat easier but an adapter plate and exhaust nozzle would have to be manufactured for the OS much like some were recently made available by Joe on the sister RCG forum to adapt the YS RE "Classic" engine to the same headers.
David
as SC pointed out, you're looking for a Magic 60 "S" shaped header. Hatori made such a header as you've already discovered. The Japanese site you found it on is probably legitimate. Singapore Hobbies also appears to still have them in stock so you could order directly from them:
http://www.singahobby.com/?q=node/18155
An alternative would be to use a NR header (three different fuse top heights) which is spring mounted and therefore makes engine maintenance somewhat easier but an adapter plate and exhaust nozzle would have to be manufactured for the OS much like some were recently made available by Joe on the sister RCG forum to adapt the YS RE "Classic" engine to the same headers.
David
I've built many Yellow Aircraft kits, which were made by FK. I really like their quality. The fuselage is very light Polyester. The only place they lack is the unrealistic almost flat bottom airfoil and exaggerated wing span (reminds me of my ModelTech Calypso). It should fly really good though, probably a floater.
Glad to learn the history of this ariframe!
#7
Senior Member
You should be able to purchase the ally tube from Mc Master Carr.
You may be able to use what you have by rotating the engine mount a few degrees.
Yet another possibility, make a splice in the middle of the header using a custom molded silicone coupler. For glow, you will need fiberglass and Permatex Ultra Copper sealant and an appriately shaped mold from balsa. This approach makes a flexible goose neck and eliminates broken headers.
You may be able to use what you have by rotating the engine mount a few degrees.
Yet another possibility, make a splice in the middle of the header using a custom molded silicone coupler. For glow, you will need fiberglass and Permatex Ultra Copper sealant and an appriately shaped mold from balsa. This approach makes a flexible goose neck and eliminates broken headers.
#9
My Feedback: (3)
Join Date: Apr 2008
Location: Montreal,
QC, CANADA
Posts: 5,200
Likes: 0
Received 5 Likes
on
5 Posts
David,
What Matt is suggesting in order to avoid broken headers is akin to what NR (and Rossi previously) did by having their headers spring mount instead of using screws. Using Joe's NR header adapter below, the NR40402 with a 60 mm rise is perfect for the Magic
The attached pictures are of a glass Magic from the current QLK Hobby Barn kit. In this picture a NR Speed/13 is being used but with Joe's adapter, the OS should be able to be used as well. What would be needed is a ~5 mm Al shim plate that translates the locations of YS mount bolts to those of the OS RF. It's entirely possible (I haven't measured the spacing on the RF exhaust port) that the YS and OS exhaust port bolts actually match each other closely enough that the shim plate may not be needed - only a minor modification to the adapter holes.
The nice thing of this setup compared to the Singapore Hobbies Hatori header is that it is "soft" mounted and it is all available on this side of the pond. Having the header unmount by releasing the spring is IMO also a great feature particularly on models like these where access behind the engine is somewhat limited. The adapter and header are available as a kit from www.klasskotemo.com.
David
P.S. Man, this website is a mess. I apologize for saying it but these Google ads are wreaking havoc with its functionality. There are scripts (video scripts no less) running in the background causing the pages to hang every operation. If the scripts at least worked, we wouldn't have to wrestle with every word we type. I must have said it 10 times before but I'll say it again just for the record - RCU are you unable to clean up this website or shall we just say its hopeless? The content is great, the back end is simply horrendous!! Even the upload of pictures is annoyingly tedious compared to what it used to be. Before it was actually fast and easy. I wish I didn't have to say it but I will - take a look at how RCG does image uploads - it's marvelous!! Sorry for venting here folks but I just had to.
What Matt is suggesting in order to avoid broken headers is akin to what NR (and Rossi previously) did by having their headers spring mount instead of using screws. Using Joe's NR header adapter below, the NR40402 with a 60 mm rise is perfect for the Magic
The attached pictures are of a glass Magic from the current QLK Hobby Barn kit. In this picture a NR Speed/13 is being used but with Joe's adapter, the OS should be able to be used as well. What would be needed is a ~5 mm Al shim plate that translates the locations of YS mount bolts to those of the OS RF. It's entirely possible (I haven't measured the spacing on the RF exhaust port) that the YS and OS exhaust port bolts actually match each other closely enough that the shim plate may not be needed - only a minor modification to the adapter holes.
The nice thing of this setup compared to the Singapore Hobbies Hatori header is that it is "soft" mounted and it is all available on this side of the pond. Having the header unmount by releasing the spring is IMO also a great feature particularly on models like these where access behind the engine is somewhat limited. The adapter and header are available as a kit from www.klasskotemo.com.
David
P.S. Man, this website is a mess. I apologize for saying it but these Google ads are wreaking havoc with its functionality. There are scripts (video scripts no less) running in the background causing the pages to hang every operation. If the scripts at least worked, we wouldn't have to wrestle with every word we type. I must have said it 10 times before but I'll say it again just for the record - RCU are you unable to clean up this website or shall we just say its hopeless? The content is great, the back end is simply horrendous!! Even the upload of pictures is annoyingly tedious compared to what it used to be. Before it was actually fast and easy. I wish I didn't have to say it but I will - take a look at how RCG does image uploads - it's marvelous!! Sorry for venting here folks but I just had to.
Last edited by doxilia; 01-27-2016 at 12:31 PM.
#11
Give Macs a call and see if they will make you one. I have had a couple of custom header pipes made and it was never a problem. I had him leave the last one soft in case I had to alter it, and I heat treated it after I made sure it fit.
Scott
Scott
#12
David, I'm with you on opinions of this website. It really never has recovers from the upgrade attempts a few years ago. No fun at all to visit here other than the love of the classics.
#14
My Feedback: (3)
Join Date: Apr 2008
Location: Montreal,
QC, CANADA
Posts: 5,200
Likes: 0
Received 5 Likes
on
5 Posts
good stuff!
Like I mentioned, there may be a discrepancy between Joe's adapter for the YS and the OS RF but an adapter plate should solve the issue. Alternatively, you could swap engines...
David
#17
My Feedback: (3)
Join Date: Apr 2008
Location: Montreal,
QC, CANADA
Posts: 5,200
Likes: 0
Received 5 Likes
on
5 Posts
David,
that's what I call service! Leo always comes through.
I'd just suggest that you leave a little more clearance in the rear portion of the header opening to avoid heating up the glass to smithereens.
David
that's what I call service! Leo always comes through.
I'd just suggest that you leave a little more clearance in the rear portion of the header opening to avoid heating up the glass to smithereens.
David
#18
Thread Starter
My Feedback: (57)
Thanks to Joe at JM Designs for cranking this out the adapter so quickly. He does amazing work!!