JoshuaDA10

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Dear Tipo Experts,

I have just begun construction of my Tiporare, and so far things are going pretty well.  I really hate to bust in on 8178's thread, by the way your plane is AWESOME and I like the videos on youtube.  I have a question for everyone.  Have you guys built your planes with a flat wing or with dihedral?  I would prefer to build mine flat, but I won't if it has been found to screw up the flying characteristics.  I appreciate your thoughts.

I'm going to start a build thread, not so much to show off my plane but because this is the first pattern plane I have actually built and I need a place to post my questions!

Josh

8178

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Mine is built per the plan including the stab. The only thing I changed, is I ran the rudder all the way to the top of the vertical stab. If I did it again I would build that to plan too just for the improved appearance.

Looking forward to your build thread.

JoshuaDA10

My Feedback: (11)

8178,

Thank you for your reply, and here is why I am a tad confused.

Ihave basically collected parts for the airplane from all over. Fuselage is from a fellow flyer at my field, cores and plans (for a wood short kit) from Eureka, a copy of the WK hobbies build manual and a copy of Dick Hanson's build article.

My plans do not show any diehedral at all, but the manual from wk does. As far as the Stab it specifies 2 anhedrals depending on a side mount pipe or belly mount. What did your plans, which I assume were from GP, say?

Ido appreciate the help, and while I'm at it did you join the wings with a butt joint or is there something structural that carries through?

Josh

JoshuaDA10

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So I went ahead and re-read the build article and Dick Hansen says add dihedral and since he designed it that is what I will do!  I was mainly concerned about the dihedral complicating the installation of my retract servo, but I can probably figure it out.

I got the spars in, the retract plates cut and the wing cut to receive all of that stuff.  I'm using mechanical retracts, and will probably have to use a seperate servo for the nose.  Speaking of which, the retracts I have has a horizontal not a firewall mount nose gear.  If anyone has a simple way to mount that type of gear I would love to hear it! 

8178 - How does that SF do pulling the plane?  I also have a 61sf ABC-P that I was thinking of using...either that or my Hanno.

In case it isn't obvious by this point I am a newbie.  I had the pleasure of finishing a partially built Dirty Birdy, and I have flown that, a Calypso and a Conquest VI.  I love classic pattern airplanes, and I feel like they in particular seem to attract the most technical modelers.  That being said, that's why I go to you guys that have been doing  this awhile.

Josh

stuntflyr

Hi Josh,
Mine has a tank floor that's the mounting platform for the retract.
Chris...

doxilia

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Josh,

go ahead and start a thread, there are several owners and/or builders of Tipo's 'round these parts. In the meantime, I'll give your questions a shot.

The wing dihedral is coupled to the stab anhedral as well as the pipe as Dick points out. Basically, the underbelly pipe causes the model to pull or tuck in knife edge (or so I understand). The existence of the pipe essentially increases the frontal "presence" of the model when flying. Stab anhedral was designed to in theory help decouple that effect in knife edge. Depending on where the frontal area is present, the effective position of the stab, and hence its anhedral, needs to be altered.

If you read Hanson's article, you'll see he mentions ~2" anhedral without a pipe (i.e., with a muffler or a pipe run along the fuse side with a RE engine) or 4-1/2" with the under-slung pipe (for a SE side mounted engine). The GP Tipo instructions actually recommend 4-3/8" but 1/8" is a minor difference (< 3%).

All the above is coupled to the wing dihedral - the more stab anhedral, the more wing dihedral is required and vice versa. If you read the current Illusion thread, you will see some discussion on this subject. The Illusion is in a sense an altered Tipo with less anhedral, a flat wing positioned higher in the fuse closer to the thrust line. Later Tipo's followed this concept more closely as well.

With that said, I would build it per Dick's and GP instructions. What makes a T720 a classic, are its sleek looks with a Curare like planform.

The wing is massively thick at the root. You won't have any problems embedding the retract servo with mechanicals. You also don't need anything to bridge the sheeted wing cores when joining them. If you like, you can add CF strips to the cores under the sheeting. I did so along the two retract plate support stub spars and another in between on the top of the wing. The wing center section gets glassed in multiple weights and is rock solid once joined. I used 4" wide in 6 oz weight across the center joint followed by 2 layers of 3/4 oz out to the retract wells.

As Chris points out, you can simply mount the nose gear to the tank plate, however, in the glass kits the tank plate is 1/16" ply which won't hold up the retract. I'd recommend cutting a piece of 1/4" ply (or at least 3/16") long enough to accommodate the retract and have it span the width of the fuse. I would also join it to the FW with two "tongues" at the side edges, or, at least, butt joint it with epoxy to the FW and use a good piece of tristock (1/2") at the junction. The tank plate would go under this piece so you would mount the nose gear on to the tank plate but it would be bolted through the 1/4" ply using blind nuts and 4-40 bolts.

Hoping Mike won't mind, here are some snaps of how I did my wing.

David.

hook57

My Feedback: (21)

Hey Josh, I replied to your PM regarding the DA10; not sure if you got it as I was having issues with RCU outgoing messages. Anyhow, Luminair is still there at ARR, I flew 20s out of RFD, mostly as a fr8t dogger. Sorry to go off topic guys.
Mark

JoshuaDA10

My Feedback: (11)

Mark,

I did get your PM, and sorry about not replying. Lumanair and Igo back aways, Ilearned there and instructed there. JA built a really nice facility at ARR too and I used to fly with a few of those guys at Planemasters. Good memories.

Josh

stuntflyr

You kids, I flew DC-3 and BE-18 as freighters!
My tank floor seems to be more robust than 1/16th, for sure. And it's glassed over. It has MK mechanical retracts.
Chris...

doxilia

My Feedback: (3)

Chris,

that's interesting. What was the name of the fellow you bought yours from?

I recall his old thread and it was built from an original GP kit. He must have decided to swap the 1/16" plate in order to use the new one without any additional support. Did he use 1/8" or 3/16"?

How he managed to glass it once in place is beyond me but maybe he glassed it before installing it. I can't really see the point in glassing thick ply unless he wanted to mate it to the fuse sides... but still, I'm sure its strong.

Would you be able to take a couple of snaps of the area?

David.

JoshuaDA10

My Feedback: (11)

I would also like to see some pics of the tank floor installation.

stuntflyr

Sure. I get home tomorrow, guys. I'll get some pictures then.
Chris...

doxilia

My Feedback: (3)

Josh,

I hope post #156 answered some of your questions. Perhaps you should start a thread so that we don't continue cluttering Mike's own fine Tipo thread.

I'll also take some pictures of my tank plate & installation as soon as I'm done with the painting.

David.

doxilia

My Feedback: (3)

Mike,

so if I understood correctly, your Tipo's wings and stabs are covered in white MK from center section to the tips and then the Chevron paint was applied over top the white MK? It would explain what appears to be an identical match to the fuse colors... At first I was under the impression that the wing color trim was also MK which I suspect it's not.

I'm curious because I am just considering applying some blue trim in paint over top white MK. I was wondering if you found a need to wet sand the wing tip paint and clear coat it or whether you perhaps cleared the entire wing. Ot maybe nothing is cleared. I was considering simply clearing the sun burst blue trim on the wing tops just beyond the paint edge.

Any thoughts or suggestions?

David.

doxilia

My Feedback: (3)

Chris,

were you able to get these shots? I hope to be out of masking by the end of next week.

David.

8178

My Feedback: (17)

Sorry David, I somehow missed your question. The wing has a painted center section and the remaining wing is MonoKote including the trim color. Originally the Monokote overlapped the edge of the paint on the center section by 1/4" but when I did the repaint I had to overlap the edge of the MonoKote about a 1/32”. Chevron paint was sold as a MonoKote color match. I like using MonoKote on wings and stabs because it is very light and the small hanger hash dings can be easily removed by injecting water and reheating.

Woketman

My Feedback: (6)

Hey guys, I was drawn here by my love of Tipos. I built one back in 1980 or 81. It was my pride and joy, but I sadly only got three flights on it. I showed up at Fentress with Paul Kirsch and Steve Stricker to compete in the pattern contest that used to be around June or May each year. As I was doing a pre-contest trim flight with Steve Stricker assisting, Paul was taking off with his Curare and hit me in the leg. I went down and the Tipo was turned to dust and I ended up getting x-rayed in the emergency room. Here I am 32 years later and I still miss that Tipo!

I have gone through heli phases and turbine phases and electric phases and kid phases. I no longer have time to build like the old days. I am an ARF kind of guy now. And I don't think I'll ever run a glow engine again.

What I would love to do is find an ARF Tiporare that I can convert to electric. Is anyone aware of an ARF Tipo, Curare, or similar currently available? Especially something adaptable to electric. I am not interested in smaller scaled down airframes. I too remember the days of fast on-the-rails patternships. That is what I want to experience once again.

Thanks guys!!!!

frequent flyer

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I make the tipo short kits if you want to build one.

doxilia

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The Austrians developed a Curare ARF that is setup for either electric or glow. It has a removable cowl and canopy to access the tank/battery. I'm not sure if it's for sale yet. About $400 plus shipping if memory serves. It has been test flown by the man himself (Hanno) and is endorsed by him.

You won't find a Tipo ARF unless you have it built for you or you buy a used one. If I were to electrify a Tipo I would do a removable front much like the Curare using a ply ring magnetized to the FW. Then again, I probably wouldn't.

David

Woketman

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Thanks! Any data on who sells the Curare?

Jim_Purcha

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Unfortunately there is no US distributer, and the plane was supposed to be released August 2011 (missed) and March 2012 (missed again).

http://www.der-schweighofer.at/en/pr...51/modellsport

Jim

Woketman

My Feedback: (6)

Thanks.

80sPattern

Wok,

Ithink the toughest part of your request is the ARF part. As stated, no tipos in production. Thereare Hanger 9 Pheonix 7 and a Great Planes Dirty Birdy ARFs available that you might be able to convert.

Iconverted a Conquest IV to electric and Iam very happy with the results. However, be aware that getting a motor that will wind up to "60 on a pipe" rpm's is challenging. My C4 is a slower more graceful pre-turnaround design that works well with a slightly larger prop and a little slower speed.

Here a link to the build thread:

www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php

Good luck in whatever you decide to do. You wont regret getting back into Classic Pattern. Nothing compares......

Doug

8178

My Feedback: (17)

Silly me! I prefer and treasure having RC aircraft that are not available as ARFs and have two stroke piped engines.

R_G

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