rodders

Sorry,
I also wanted to add that I had always found Rob to be helpfull and informative one the phone and think he will be a major asset to the business.

J Kikkert

Rodders,
I've been working on kit production for the last 3 months. If you ordered before that I wouldn't know about it. I'm very sorry you weren't taken care of on your shipping Quote. Would you please reorder or notify Hobby Barn what you need a shipping quote on. That way I can make sure you are taken care of in a timely manner. I am sure that the hobby barn needs your shipping address and Info.You will need to go to www.hobbybarn,com and give them your info so they can get a cost for delivery. Also send the message to me at [email protected] that way I will personally guarantee you will be given the highest priority of service possible.I'm sorry you were not taken care of , but that was before I started. I know that is a lame excuse, but I want to make it up to you, and I guarantee you will be taken care of.I want Quality Line Kits to be successful and I will start wit you. I know how to make kits but am not very knowledgable on shipping, but I will be shortly.
JERRY

J Kikkert

David,er
It doesn't require cutting a cowl or hatch for engine installation on any of our kits. It just requires that the builder cut a hole in the fuselage just big enough to slide the engine and motor mount in and out. If there was only one type engine to use we could mold an opening in the fuselage when we do the glass lay up, but with everyone using a different setup we just mold the fuse closed and let the modeler cut to fit as needed. Each type engine requires a little different shape hole to match cylinder shape, exhaust system used, needle valve location, and carburater shape and location. Some people give the engine a little extra clearance and others spend a lot of time making a very neat and tight fit around the engine. It's just a matter of preference. We have a magic 60 in the shop and when I get back to work on Monday I will try to send some pictures. The engine installation on the Magic 60 and Magic 40 are both done the same way, just one is a little smaller than the other.Hope this answers your question. If you have any other questions feel free to call me. my cell number is (520) 335-7751. I'd be happy to talk to you, as a matter of it is a lot easier for me to talk than it is to type.I have to be careful and paying attention to every word I type as my computer moves moves from one sentence to another all on it's own. Sometimes i don't even know where it puts some words. I have to proof read every sentence to make sure it didn't put words in the wrong place. Well it looks like I have everything straightened out and readable. Hope to talk to you in the near future.
JERRY

Jim Flannigan

Wrong account used.

doxilia

My Feedback: (3)

Jerry,

Thanks for your reply on general engine mounting. I'm familiar with the process of installing engines in glass models but the Magic is a little different as the original 60 size (well, Hanno's competition second version) used an inverted configuration with an S-shaped header to bring the pipe to the top. Speaking of which...

I was about to reply with some pictures of the Magic 60 you just posted. I believe those pics might be from a build that Rob started some time back when QLK were first brought back. He has a thread started on the forum here:

http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/clas...742-magic.html

The photos you've just posted appear to be of the same model a little more advanced. What was missing from Rob's photo posts was seeing the underside which now reveals that he made a cutout large enough to pass the engine through there. Not having seen it until now, and with the somewhat different front end of the M60 vs M40, I was wondering if Rob was actually able to pass the engine through the opening in the nose of the model. Because of the design, it looked like it almost might have been doable but I wasn't sure if the engine mounting tabs would have passed through the nose ring when canting the engine forward. Now, it is more obvious that the cutout is large enough to install and remove the engine from the underside - thanks!

That said, the M40 appears to have a slightly different front shape with the "carburetor chin" curved up toward the nose ring of the fuse. Maybe it's just an illusion and if the front were opened entirely as in the M60, it would look more or less the same. Anyhow, I'm really thinking about the logistics of getting a 45 size engine installed inverted in the model and other implications related to the air baffle, fuel tank and nose retract gear.

At this point, thinking aloud, I would ideally like to use a YS 45FR engine as they are "short and pumped" allowing for a more compact FW to Spinner distance and a fuel tank positioned above the front part of the wing with the radio behind it. I would also install a lite ply plate in the wing LE to FW area to mount the NG (with adequate ply reinforcement) and keep it separated from the rest of the components. The plate could also house two servos on either side of the wheel when retracted - one for the throttle and the other for NG steering. I'd probably try my luck with electric retracts using 3.5 mm struts - a little on the light side but they should be sturdy enough. The good news is the air baffle would provide some additional support for the NG/servo plate in the front and act as a "strut" of sorts.

The main drawback of using a "non Rossi" engine (i.e., the YS) is that a custom header would likely have to be made as there are no S-shaped standard headers for this engine. One of the great benefits of the NR Speed/13 engine that Rob used in the M60 is that NR makes three different header "rises" providing a perfect header for the inverted installation. I happen to have a Rossi 45 RE engine which uses the same headers as the NR Speed/13 so that would be an easy solution but my main concern is the reliability of engine operation with an inverted mount and a non metered engine like the YS. But like I said, I'm mainly thinking aloud if I am to build one of these M40's...

I'm not personally interested in an upright mount for this design although I can see the appeal as it makes the whole engine install dilemma much easier. An upright OS 46 VF or even the Rossi 45 RE would probably work well in that configuration assuming one could get the fuel tank high enough in the model since the carb would likely be at the level of the tuned pipe. Naturally, the easiest install of all would probably be a side mounted engine but this would break with my concept of the Magic and its concealed pipe and deck.

It might just be that anyone wanting to build an M40 might have to order a custom header specific to their engine. Even an engine like the OS 55AX could be used mounted inverted with a wrap around rise header. The header would exit and re-enter the fuse (either in front or behind the FW) and rise up to the pipe deck. At this point, I'm inclined toward using the YS FR but I'm just wondering if the project will give me more grief than I desire. Then again, a compact 40 size Prettner design is always a unique project!

Thanks again for your ongoing posts. If you have pics of an upright (and inverted for that matter) engine install on the M40, I'd be most interested in seeing them. Of course, if you have any further advice or suggestions on the topic, I'm all ears!

David

P.S. Giving it a little further thought, I'm wondering if the best solution would be to have a Rossi header adapter made for the 45 FR. It would likely be easier than a custom header and allows a Speed/13 header to be more easily installed and removed with the spring retention system. A part like the one shown below.

J Kikkert

David,
.
Modifying a Rossi exhaust adaptor might simplify using your YS. There have been hundreds of these Magic 40 models completed, using rear exhaust engines both upright and inverted with inclosed tuned pipe setups. Some modelers even elected to use side exhaust engines with standard mufflers, both upright and inverted. I am going to attach a few pictures of a rear exhaust Rossi with tuned pipe assembly just setting on the outside of the Magic 40 fuselage to give you a rough idea of the engine size compared to fuse size. We built the original Magic 60 for a rear exhaust inclosed tuned pipe set up as Prettner originally designed it. That is why the engine air inlet is molded open. But after finding that some modelers mounted engines upright , the air inlet didn't need to be open. The Magic 40 was built a little later so we decided to mold the inlet closed, and let the modeler make the decision of whether to leave it closed or dremel it open for his particular application. One of the pictures shows a felt pen drawing of the area to dremel out for an inverted engine installation. This is about all the engineering info I can give you without doing a complete aircraft build. You seem to have a lot of time to spend posting on this forum, so maybe you might want to document a build thread here on this forum. Building this type of model always present a few engineering situations that need to be worked around. If you send me a few pictures of the exhaust area of your YS,I may be able to to help fitting a header.
JERRY

doxilia

My Feedback: (3)

Jerry,

thanks for the additional pictures showing the NR 45 and pipe. As I mentioned in my PS, I'm thinking that the best solution is indeed to use a NR header adapter which allows the entire exhaust to be disconnected by releasing a spring rather than unbolting a conventional header such as a Macs.

I'll have to check my engine but I'm quite certain that both the YS 45 and 60 use the same bolt spacing on the exhaust flange even if the port itself might be slightly different. This should allow a 60 size YS to Rossi adapter to be used on the YS 45. This would basically solve the inverted engine and header issue.

Rossi USA who carried original Rossi branded engines of current manufacture had such adapters but it appears he is no longer in business. I'll have to see if the adapter carried by NR for the R60F might help to solve the problem. The bolt spacing is likely wider than the YS RE but maybe it can be re-drilled or otherwise an adapter plate machined to interface the two.

I'll be in touch soon to inquire about pricing and availability of the M40 kit.

Thanks, David

PS My sometimes overly long posts are simply the result of my being a quick typist and not taking the time to edit.

Yak13

My Feedback: (17)

Leo, all the kits are listed as "available soon" on your web site. can you give us an update on availability and models?

Thanks

Ed

hurrimk2c

My Feedback: (10)

Anyone know what happened to the Hobby Barn's production of the Quality Line kits. They don't even show the "add to cart" buttons on the main page. Have they given up on them? Thank you

stuntflyr

Rob makes a few kits of certain designs. The Super Curare I saw a bunch of on the shelves.

hurrimk2c

My Feedback: (10)

Thank you - have you seen the Vulcan kit and if so, how did it look?

hurrimk2c

My Feedback: (10)

Anyone seen or know how good or not the Hobby Barn Vulcan kit is? Thank you....

stuntflyr

He showed me Thunderbird and Super Curare kits on the shelves. He mentioned other designs and the Vulcan may be one of them but I didn't know it and didn't stick in the old mind. Have you contacted them? I haven't been there in a couple of months.
Chris...

hurrimk2c

My Feedback: (10)

Thank you for the reply. I have contacted them before but not recently. They were originally offering different versions of the Vulcan but only show one on the pull down menu now. I must admit my interaction with them when I did contact them before was not the best. I got a bit of an "attitude" from them like I was a novice. I've been doing this 50+ years......

frequent flyer

My Feedback: (6)

Hi Chris

Well I've been kinda slowed down this last year with hip surgery, moving to Colorado and all, but things are going well and I am happy to see you mention RCAIIR, Thank You I haven't been reading the Forums much lately, too busy building and moving.
Building new shops and being the exclusive distributor for Laser cut USA has now increased our line up to almost 100 kits and growing. Were making glass and foam kits and all wood kits along with glass and wood kits. Trying to cover all the bases, so to speak. The response has been overwhelming. I've been increasing the shops now to about 8000 sq ft. with plans for another 2000 sq ft next year.
My sons are coming home this Summer from college and are going to get my new Website up and running they said. Hope to talk to you soon, long time no see....

Don