8178

My Feedback: (17)

rainedav

The other thing you may need to know to convert them for use on your UFO is the width of the control surface. The Blue Angel ailerons are 1 1/2”, the elevators are 2 7/16” and the rudder is 3 1/8”. The Tiporare ailerons are 1 3/8”, the elevators are 2 1/8” at the widest part and the rudder is 4 1/8”.

rainedave

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Thanks 8178 for taking time to get those measurements. It's a real help. David.

8178

My Feedback: (17)

I completed the beveling of the elevator and rudder leading edges and test installed the Du-Bro hinges.

To be continued…

8178

My Feedback: (17)

I’ve been working on finishing the wheel wells. I used a paint can top with sandpaper glued to it and a small sanding block to sand the foam smooth. View of the wheel well and the tools I used.

To be continued…

8178

My Feedback: (17)

I use 1/64” plywood to line the wheel wells because it is thin, light and takes paint easily. View of the wheel well bottom and side pieces cut to fit. Need to cut more parts for the side areas.


To be continued…

8178

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Gluing in the 1/64” plywood parts in the wheel well, held by masking tape and balsa sticks.

To be continued…

bob27s

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Ya see.... here I would have coated the wheel well with some finishing epoxy or white glue and been done with it [&:]

8178

My Feedback: (17)

Bob,

I know, I know, I’m over doing it, but trust me it will look great! I started using the 1/64” plywood decades ago and it does look good.

8178

My Feedback: (17)

View of the completed wheel well with a small fillet of epoxy and micro balloons at the seam between the bottom and side pieces.

To be continued…

bob27s

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Of course it is going to look good

8178

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I cut out the balsa wing skin that was covering the servo well and glued in the plywood servo mount with epoxy. As you may recall there is a 1/32” plywood window around the opening that is under the wing skin. After the epoxy set I glued in 1/16” balsa around the opening between the mount and the wing skin. The 1/16” balsa liner helps minimize the open space around the servo. After the glue dried I sanded the balsa liner edge flush with the wing skin.

I really do not care for the look of the servos mounted on the bottom of wing even though they fit flush with the wing skin. But the room inside the fuselage is very tight for servos so it was best to hang them in the wing.

To be continued…

ramcfarland

My Feedback: (44)

Looks great and I thought the spray can top was my idea. EXCELLENT workman ship 8178[sm=thumbup.gif]

8178

My Feedback: (17)

Thanks Richard! This has been a very interesting and fun build. I’m just taking my time and savoring every step in the journey.

8178

My Feedback: (17)

View of both wing halves showing the completed wheel wells and servo mounts. The servo mounts are cut 90 degrees to the trailing edge of the wing panels because the aileron linkage will be at 90 degrees to the aileron.

To be continued…

8178

My Feedback: (17)

I completed the gluing of the wing halves together with 30 minute epoxy. I use masking tape that I stretch tightly between the wing halves to hold it togther. The stretched masking tape puts a lot of pressure on the glue seam and holds the joint together very tightly.

I always find this task a little daunting because just a tiny misalignment of the wing panels really messes up the flight characteristics. The swept wing was a little hard to hold on to compared to the conventional straight wing.

To be continued…

8178

My Feedback: (17)

As you may recall before I sheeted the wing cores I sanded them lightly to make sure the root and tips of both wing panels were identical in shape and size. By spending a little time to make sure the airfoils were the same on both wing panels the glue seam at the root matches very closely.

When Dan cut the wing cores he pre-cut the dihedral angle saving a lot of sanding of the wing roots. The dihedral is set up so the top of the wing is flat and only a little dihedral is formed by the wing taper. Swept back wings create a dihedral effect so it is best that the wing has little built in dihedral.

Views of the wing root epoxy glue seams are below. The black dots on the top of the wing are marks so I can find and cut holes for the servo lead and retract gear air line holes.

To be continued…

8178

My Feedback: (17)

I started work on the wing center section and wing mounting. I cut the front former out of regular plywood that mounts on the front of the wing. I needed to do this so I can test fit everything and mark the wing for fiber glassing of the center section. I used some short ¼” dowels to test the fitment. Interesting that with the root center line of the leading and trailing edge of the wing aligned with the fuselage center line marks the wing is perfectly aligned with the tail. All of the center lines that I laid out on the fuselage formers to jig build the fuselage are coming in handy. There are a number of balsa wood and other light plywood parts that need to be cut to fill in the area under the wing after the fiber glass work is complete.

To be continued…

Deadstik

My Feedback: (8)

8178,

Nice to see your wing mounting method. I do it exactly the opposite way...!!! Always looking for a new way to do something and your way may just be easier.. so I'm going to try it.... As usual, great work....


Dan

Carolina Custom Aircraft

rainedave

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Looking awesome, 8178! I pretty much understand how a sweptback wing helps with longitudinal stability and damping yaw (I think), but how does it produce a similar effect as dihedral?

8178

My Feedback: (17)

Thanks Dan! I may have caused some confusion by showing the scrap dowels I used for aligning the front wing former. I’m building everything to plan and oddly Kato used long dowels that go though the front wing former and will be glued into the wing.

8178

My Feedback: (17)

Thanks rainedav! Take a look at this link that does a pretty good job of explaining the dihedral effect http://selair.selkirk.bc.ca/aerodyna...ity/Page5.html It also explains the negative aspects of swept wings.

8178

My Feedback: (17)

I marked off the center of the wing for the width of the fuselage plus the added width of the fuselage fillets. I then put masking tape along the line and worked it down so it was taped down tightly. I’m using six ounce tight weave fiberglass cloth with two layers on each side of the wing. I lay down a 2” wide piece and then a second wide piece. Before I put the cloth down, I brush the balsa with resin, lay down the first piece, resin the piece, lay down the wide piece and then brush more resin on.

Years ago I always used polyester resin to glass the center section and somehow in the last ten years started using thinned epoxy glue. I decided to go back to polyester because I haven’t been happy with the epoxy. I think the polyester bonds to the balsa better and makes a stronger joint.

To be continued…

turbo.gst

My Feedback: (8)

hello,

I'm tried to get an active link and can't. There is a Kato Blue Angel on ebay. There is 1 day + 7 hours left if anyone is looking for one after seeing this project.

turbo




http://cgi.ebay.com/Blue-Angel-R-C-M...QQcmdZViewItem

Finally got it to work..........

8178

My Feedback: (17)

Turbo,

I thought you were going to post that on Monday so we could discuss it AFTER it sold. I had them send me pictures of the plans and canopy last week. I apparently it must be a very early kit because the plans are different than the ones I have. I can’t tell from the pictures if the parts are the same as the one I’m building, but for sure plans have less detail. From what I can tell they by enlarging them, they do not have the retract gear detail and they say “World Champion” above the Blue Angel name.

turbo.gst

My Feedback: (8)

I am NOT selling the kit. I just saw it and wanted to let the people following this thread know that one is out there looking for a new home. I hope it helps someone looking for one have a chance to find one.

turbo