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Blue Angel - Build

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Old 03-20-2006, 07:39 PM
  #51
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Default RE: Blue Angel - Build

Thanks Mike, the first photo explains it better. Some of my old tanks don't have the wrap around style of cover.

Jim
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Old 03-21-2006, 07:34 AM
  #52
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Default RE: Blue Angel - Build

Boy what a simple and great trick. It is these simple things shared that makes me feel, now why didn't I think of that. Thanks, the classics and tips like this is what keeps me looking.
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Old 03-21-2006, 09:47 AM
  #53
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Quote:
ORIGINAL: burgh_guy61

Boy what a simple and great trick. It is these simple things shared that makes me feel, now why didn't I think of that. Thanks, the classics and tips like this is what keeps me looking.

All the credit for the fuel tank mount goes to Tony Howard at Howard Engineering. They are without question the best engineered kits that I’ve ever built. It’s too bad they are not available anymore but the market for “Classic” kits is pretty limited.
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Old 03-21-2006, 11:54 AM
  #54
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Quote:
ORIGINAL: 8178

One of the things I always liked about the old Rom-Air retracts is that they would stay retracted for transporting and aircraft storage. While I was ordering my new Spring Airs they suggested a simple solution to keep the Spring Airs retracted. I just made a small wire retainer with a ribbon attached to it so it would not get lost. Pretty slick!

To be continued…

What I use to keep the wing gear up, is a check valve (pet store one is fine. .. look in the aquarium section), some tubing, and an extra air line quick-connect. One stroke with the hand pump, and the gear are up.

Usually they leak out over a long time, but they stay up long enough for transport and such.

Bob
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Old 03-21-2006, 02:14 PM
  #55
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Good idea Bob!
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Old 03-21-2006, 02:15 PM
  #56
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Default RE: Blue Angel - Build

The nose gear on the Blue Angel is a belly mount and mounts to a ¼” piece of plywood.

To be continued…

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Old 03-21-2006, 02:27 PM
  #57
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The nose gear mount is glued to the back lower edge of the firewall with 30 min epoxy. I used a square to keep it aligned while the epoxy set. I like to build the firewall, nose gear mount and tank mount as a unit before it is installed in the fuselage so there is easy access for drilling holes and installing all the blind nuts, etc.

To be continued…
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Old 03-21-2006, 04:31 PM
  #58
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Default RE: Blue Angel - Build

8178,

Does your steering arm extend out beyond the edge of the firewall, or is it just the angle of the pic? Just wondering how you were going to overcome that if it does extend out too far.

Tim
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Old 03-21-2006, 05:20 PM
  #59
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Default RE: Blue Angel - Build

The original Blue Angel used beam mounts and only had a thin firewall, so I’ve modified it by designing the firewall to hold the radial mount. The area from the bottom of the firewall to the front of the aircraft and the bottom of the nose is a balsa block. I’m not sure that the arm will need to go forward beyond the firewall line for steering movement but if so I’ll hollow out space for it in the balsa blocks. I’m flying a little blind because I’m building from plans that are designed to build a kit with pre cut wood and from my memory of my friend’s FK speeda.
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Old 03-21-2006, 05:26 PM
  #60
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Continuing my theme of completing all the firewall stuff before installing it in the fuselage I drilled the hole for the throttle cable and test fit the configuration.
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Old 03-21-2006, 06:03 PM
  #61
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Default RE: Blue Angel - Build

8178, I can't quite make out the type of throttle linkage you're using. Is it a ball link? The work so far looks extremely neat!
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Old 03-21-2006, 06:23 PM
  #62
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Quote:
ORIGINAL: rainedav

8178, I can't quite make out the type of throttle linkage you're using. Is it a ball link? The work so far looks extremely neat!
Thanks rainedav! I find it easer to plan all this stuff out when there is plenty of room to drill holes, etc. Yes it is a ball link but the ball has not been attached to the arm yet. The engine has a plastic arm so there is no worry of the plastic yoke on the ball assembly having problems from heat. Using the ball link gives the cable more freedom to change angles throughout the total movement of the throttle.
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Old 03-21-2006, 09:06 PM
  #63
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The Spring Air nose gear requires that the steering cable to be mounted so the control arm linkage is held at the center of the retract pivot point. My solution to this is a removable mount on the front of the cable sheath so it can be moved out of the way to install or remove the retract unit. If I make a removable clamp at the servo end the complete linkage can be removed. The mount bolts screw into blind nuts on the top of the retract gear mount. The steering cable control on the Blue Angel is tricky because of the low position of the retract steering arm and routing the cable over the top of the wing. I’ve cut dwells in the side of the F3 former in front of the wing for the steering cable and throttle cable.

To be continued…
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Old 03-21-2006, 09:18 PM
  #64
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8178, since I've never installed a nose gear retract before, what exactly happens to the steering linkage when the gear is retracted? Does it disengage somehow or does the cable go slack as the wheel is raised? Or is it set up so the steering arm doesn't move laterally? in that case does the arm rotate on a shaft? Since I'll be using a nose retract in my UFO I'm really curious and equally confused. Thanks.
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Old 03-21-2006, 09:33 PM
  #65
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Default RE: Blue Angel - Build

On the Spring Air system the steering linkage on the retract steering arm just slides back and fourth on the arm shaft when rudder is used with the gear retracted. That’s why you need a mount for the front of the cable to hold it in the correct position.
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Old 03-21-2006, 10:09 PM
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Default RE: Blue Angel - Build

Awesomely simple and ingenius. I makes total sense now. Thank you. The more I think about it, the more I lean towards the Spring Airs (I still haven't bought mine yet).

I really like your method of building the whole engine/firewall/plumbing/retract unit first before even starting the fuse. It makes a world of sense, getting all that worked out ahead of time. Unfortunately, a lot of times when I build I just start glueing and then run into problems, glueing myself into a corner, so to speak! Please take it as a compliment that I've decide to let you resolve some of these construction decisions before I tackle my UFO fuse.
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Old 03-22-2006, 07:09 AM
  #67
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Default RE: Blue Angel - Build

Thanks rainedav, glad the information is helpful. Spring Air also makes a firewall mount nose gear that I used in my Tiporare. The quality of the Spring Air systems is very impressive.
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Old 03-22-2006, 10:21 AM
  #68
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We’ve got wood! Lots and lots of it! The order from Dynamic Balsa arrived yesterday and it looks like a big kit that just needs to have the parts cut. What fun!

To be continued…
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Old 03-22-2006, 04:47 PM
  #69
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The engine for the Blue Angel arrived today and looks perfect!
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Old 03-22-2006, 06:05 PM
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Now that I have the wood from Dynamic Balsa, I moved ahead with the fuselage construction by transferring the shape of the fuselage side doublers on to 1/8” light plywood and cutting them out with my Dremel Moto-Shop jig saw.

As discussed before the fuselage has very complex shapes and I decided that the only way to assemble it would be some sort of fuselage jig to hold it in alignment. I used an old building board (plastic covered shelving) that I was about to throwaway as the jig base. I drew a center line down the board using a straight edge and a lead pencil. I then transferred the former positions from the plans along the center line. Using a square I projected the lines so they were about 4” out from either side of the center line making sure they were precisely square with the center line. I picked up some 3/4” X 1 1/2” smooth cut wood at the hardware store and then cut it into three 8” long pieces. Vertical center lines were scribed on the blocks. I cut three ¼” X ½” X 4” plywood pieces for clamps and drilled the ends for wood screws so they could be screwed to the 3/4” X 1 1/2” blocks to make the clamp. They are set down a little from the top of the 3/4” X 1 1/2” for clearance with the fuselage sides. The next task was to epoxy the 3/4” X 1 1/2”s to the base after checking that the vertical surface was absolutely square with the base. The 3/4” X 1 1/2”s were glued down to the base and lined up with the center line and the former lines. The firewall 3/4” X 1 1/2” block was glued down with a 1 degree right thrust (the aircrafts right not the jig) as defined on the plans.

So far the jig looks like it might work out pretty well. To test the alignment you can view the former alignment marks through the fuel tank hole in the firewall and see all the way back to the former behind the wing and on to the very back of the tail when the balsa sides are ready to be pulled together in the tail.

Some images of the jig while I was testing the aliment using the fuselage side doublers. I’ll glue the balsa fuselage sides to the doublers before gluing the assembly together.

To be continued…
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Old 03-23-2006, 09:48 AM
  #71
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Default RE: Blue Angel - Build

I forgot to mention that after the sides are glued to the formers I’ll flip the fuselage over and put it back in the jig to hold everything in place as I add the multi piece fuselage top.

To be continued…
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Old 03-23-2006, 08:00 PM
  #72
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Default RE: Blue Angel - Build

This build does the heart (and mind) good 8178! I can not wait to see this bird done!
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Old 03-23-2006, 08:11 PM
  #73
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Quote:
ORIGINAL: impactiq

This build does the heart (and mind) good 8178! I can not wait to see this bird done!
Thanks impactiq! I’m having a lot of fun BUILDING it! I’m keeping the vision of my friends Speeda flight in mind to keep inspired. I’ve wanted a Blue Angel or Speeda forever!
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Old 03-23-2006, 08:49 PM
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Servo placement planning, it’s going to be snug!
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Old 03-23-2006, 08:57 PM
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The 3/16” balsa sides on the Blue Angel have a front and back section that join mid wing. I used my usual method of tracing the parts onto blue lined translucent drafting paper. Not sure if they still make it because my stock is from my RC aircraft designing days back in the 70s. The paper has a grid of 1/10”squares and a darker line every square inch. The grid helps line up the paper to one of the long straight lines like along the top part of the side pieces. I rubber glued two 36’X3”X3/16” side pieces together for the back fuselage sides and then rubber glued the tracing on top of the pieces. I made sure that I had two pieces that had straight edges on one side for the top part of the side. I had to do a little sanding and checking with a straight edge to make them perfect. Next, I doubled checked that the Dremel Moto-Shop jig saw blade was square with its table top and then cut them out. I did the same for the front side pieces. Then I taped a straight edge down the center of my new building board to use for alignment of the top of the side pieces. The butt joint between the front and back part took a little sanding to mate the parts with 0 gaps. I put the parts on both sides of the straight edge, glued the butt joint and then taped them down to the board.

After the glue dried I glued on the doublers and weighted them down for the glue to dry.

From looking a at the side pieces you can see why I needed the jig! So far everything lines up perfectly

The images below show the drafting paper I use, the completed sides and test fitting them in the jig. The plan shows some kind of MK threaded block bolted to the fuselage doublers for the wing bolts. I’ve cut slots in the light ply sides for ¼” plywood blocks to be drilled and threaded for the wing bolts.

To be continued…
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