captainv24

Hmm, now I am lost at 3:55pm

For my understanding, could someone please clarify the differences between vertical stab and fin?

Taurus Flyer

CaptainV24
There is no difference

You have horizontal stab and vertical stab
So you cannot use stab, only verical stab when you mean the fin.

I think David did mean horizontal stab and fin.
Even when he says he is awake he is still sleeping I think.

He also could have said tail planes, then you have all.

And so on, horizontal tail planes, vertical tail plane.



Cees

rainedave

My Feedback: (1)

I guess I still wasn't awake.[] I'll try one more time:

Vertical Stab and Rudder.

At any rate, my question wasn't concerned with terminology; I was asking about the grain direction. Sorry for the confusion I created.

David

Taurus Flyer

Hello Rainedave,

You mean the grain direction "of the core", from the vertical stab and rudder.

"Sorry for the confusion I creat" is not the right phrase, I only was interested!
Do you know why?

Even the core of the rudder, elevator and ailerons of my planes have 2 directions.
I do use a "thin strip of triplex "plywood"", 1 mm x 10 mm in the backside of every rudder, elevator and aileron to keep them sharp.

Cees

rainedave

My Feedback: (1)

Hi Cees. No, my first question to captainv24 was if he had a vertical grain core in his vertical stab and rudder, since the outside sheeting is running horizontally. Then, I looked at the plan details he posted and saw that they show vertical grain outside sheeting. I should never have brought it up; it's just that I've never seen horizontal grain tail surfaces before. So, I assumed that there was vertical grain wood sandwiched inside (like balsa plywood).

Thanks,
David

Taurus Flyer

Hello David,

We both know the way to do it is the way on the drawing, that's stronger.
I often do NOT make the tail planes massive, also the rudders
So hanging location massive, tips and roots masieve, 1 mm plywood in the backside, and some "strips" divided. for all rudders.

Cees

madmodellerbamford

H Boing727, that's a classy and excellent covering scheme you have produced there. I am impressed. May I ask whether you have used nylon or one of the covering films that are so popular these days. I have got one of these aircraft on the back burner and I was thinking of using nylon doped onto the airframe and then spray on a colour scheme.

Regards.....Tony.

Nello73

hi All, I have built and flown my kwik fly mk3 yesterday. Beautiful model and almost impossible to stall it

Can I ask what deflection in degree for the aileron as I found mine too much responsive​​​​​​. I had more or less more than 20 deg!
I read in this forum 12 -13 deg would be suitable dor this plane.
can you please confirm it
many thanks in advance
Nello

UStik

I have the "German" plans from FMT and the accompanying article recommends even less throw. What they recommend in millimeters results in 11 degrees up and 10 degrees down (some differential).

madmodellerbamford

Hi Nello73. The problem with your aileron movement is that you have got far too much movement, and if it is equal up and down, then you may well be getting drag from the down-going aileron. The accepted rule is that there should be more up aileron than down aileron. You can do this mechanically, by offsetting the control rods on the servo disc, ( I will have to refer to my bible in my shed for the full detail), or if you have a servo in each wing for the ailerons, then some transmitters allow you to adjust aileron differential electronically. It does make a difference, and I would certainly cut down the movement that you have now to half, test fly and increase the movements until you are happy with the flying!!!

Nello73

thanks Ustik that s what I thought
Nello

Nello73

Thank you madmodellerbamford,
I have two servos with a Y wire but you made me think and I have just discovered that my futaba 6EX allows aileron differential if you connect channel 1 and 6!
Will try that.
cheers

madmodellerbamford

Hi again Nello73. I am glad you found the info useful. You really only need large throws on aerobatic or 3D type of aircraft. Your rudder could be left at 20 degrees either side, It is often the most powerful control when you are getting near the stall, that is the time when the ailerons are next to useless. They require airspeed to do their job. Likewise the elevator, 10 or 15 degrees of movement is usually enough. Just a bit of useless information for you, I am currently building Phil Krafts Ugly Stik, a 62 inch span model.
I spent a very wet day in my shed today, in Bilston, West Midlands in the UK, cutting out and sanding up 17 main ribs and 14 sub-ribs ready to start building up the wing, over the weekend, unless my wife has other ideas???? Amongst my planes to build are the Kwik Fli 111 and the DHC Beaver Utility aircraft. Hope I get them all finished. After all, I am only 77 years old, so no sweat there then!! Enjoy your flying. Regards,,,Anthony

Nello73

Kwik fly mk3 is my third scratch built.I maiden it last sunday but I had trouble with my OS55 and three engine failures which I found later due to bad fuel as I used old oxidized nitro! but I managed to bring back the model safe on ground. It has a ver good and gentle stall and fly so slow.

I love 70s pattern planes they just fly naturally and relatively easy and cheap to build. Next in the pipe is Curare by Hanno Prattner. I got plans from Kato Model it seems ok to build not too difficult and with enough details.

I spent 6 years working in the uk and left many good friends there. Somerset and Bristol. Beautiful countryside. Cant say that for the weather though 😂
Enjoy Happy flights
cheers
Nello

rclbsimmo

My Feedback: (4)

If I remember right, My Top Flight Kwik Fly III had fully sheeted wings?? But it looks like the original plans were open structure on the wings??
Lee

Nello73

hi Lee, I have used MK plans for the build and it wings are open not fully sheeted. Fly beautifully the kwik. OS55 engine.
Nello

rclbsimmo

My Feedback: (4)

OK, Thanks....I will use a OS 55 in it as well...
Lee

Nello73

it is a perfect match. Mine weights 3,5 kg with fuel.
Here is the link to my build log:
https://www.baronerosso.it/forum/aer...ml#post5107560
happy flights!

paulinfrance

I have just ordered my kit from Germany, I have a Rossi .40 and an OS .46AX, I will probably put the OS in it as it looks around the same power as when I first saw one fly in 1970 it had an OS .60 Gold Head, I will be covering it with silk and paper, then 2 pack Polyurethane paint.

But retracts or fixed undercarriage ?.

rctoni0711

Thanks. Nice retro plane.

paulinfrance

Opps I forgot, all finished with electric retracts a really nice easy plane to fly.https://www.rcgroups.com/forums/show...rman-kit-build

He is my 'build',,,