frequent flyer

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I make canopies for all the planes I've built. It is no problem.

Kaos

I see that this thread a year old, so I hope you're still monitoring it. My question is what type of receiver battery are you using? I just bought a new Hitec Aurora 9 and I'm in the process of outfitting 2 airplanes and 1 helicopter with various Optima receivers. One of my models is a Killer Chaos that has 5 standard servos on board. I've read that 2.4 GHz receivers don't like low voltages (less than 3.5v), so I'm worried that my 4.8v pack won't do the job under flight loads. Should I go with a 6.0v receiver battery?

Thanks,

Kaos

computermonkey

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Hello, I operated standard servo for years with just 4.8v pack with out any problems. Today I use 6v packs where ever I can, namely the A123 two cells packs. They are lighter and last longer and supply a more constant volts to all of the equipment.

AllTheGoodNamesAreTaken

My Feedback: (180)

I also have an Aurora 9 (I love this radio!).
I almost exclusively use LiIon packs (2 cell 7.4V) with a regulator. There are a lot of new servos on the market that can handle the higher voltages of LiIon / LiPo packs and I'm slowly switching to those servos. I like the huge capacity vs weight that liIon provides. I like the ability to load test the battery (Fromeco sells a sleek little unit called an "8Ball" load checker). I can fly all weekend without charging or worrying about brown outs due to low voltage.
I don't like the A123 packs. Look at a discharge curve of an A123 pack vs a LiIon. A LiIon or NiMh/NiCad have nice gradual discharge curves letting you know your pack is loosing capacity and is in need of re-charge. An A123's voltage at take-off can be fine, but be at the end of it's capacity, having you wonder why you just crashed with a "full" battery.

If you want to stick with a 4.8 NiCad or NiMh Rx pack, you know with the Aurora, you can use a separate battery just to power the Receiver. For simplicity, I would just use a 5 cell pack.

MetallicaJunkie

just curious.... you fiberglassed the fuse...or how did you prep the fuse befor you painted it

doxilia

My Feedback: (3)

MJ,

start reading 'round post #200. This one is the turning point:

http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9346803

Jeff used the typical 1/2 - 3/4 oz glass cloth and finishing resin technique. Once glassed, it helps to fill the weave of the glass. This can be done in a number of ways. Then, after sanding, you can hit the primer.

Have a DB in the works?

Hope this helps,

David.

MetallicaJunkie

thanks... no, but am quite interested in building a vintage pattern plane... i love em

doxilia

My Feedback: (3)

MJ,

didn't you have a Tipo that you were once considering selling but then went ahead and built? What's the status? Or am I getting confused?

The Tipo would make a good first glass project as you'd only have to glass the wing and stab. I plan to do that with a second Tipo I'll build in the coming months - all paint.

David.

Roary m

My Feedback: (67)

Pardon me for my comment here since I did not scan the entire blog on this ship (this may have been previously mentioned). I wanted to mention that the original canopy can still be bought at Tower. Great Planes still makes it: part number GPMQ2110, and it has the divit or tuck around the entire periphery of the canopy at the base; it is identical to the original.

MetallicaJunkie

yes i still have the Tipo(great planes)....you have a good memory!! i started on it a while back, and a buddy of mine showed me how to apply balsa skinto the foam cores....i went to look at them the other day and theyt have delaminated,,,ill never use 3m spray adhesive again....kinda demoralizing.... as of now its on hold