patternflyer76

Well here we go!!!!! I have finally started on my ride for next years SPA Expert Class. I have chosen the King Altair by Home and Hobby Solutions. I wanted to share the building process with all of you who may be interested. I plan on extensive modification to the build, but not to the design. This bird will be built to the plans, but with modifications such as plug in wings, plug in stab with adjustable incidence, and of course the transformation from tri-gear to tail drag version. [>:] I had to do a little calculating at first, but I used my trusty book of secrets.... I'll keep adding as I get more done. Thanks for looking....

dhal22

taildragger? [X(]

david

Free Bird

Say it ain't so!!!!!!![:@][:'(][&o]

pimmnz

If'n you want it to fly better you gotta lighten it, not heavy it!
Evan.

patternflyer76

Well, a little progress has been made... I was able to figure the angle and depth in each rib that the holes for the Carbon Fiber socket and wing tube will need to be placed. I used a little trig. and figured out what the rise, or in this case for the tube, decline would be for each rib location to locate the exact position of the hole for the wing tube. I also picked a dividing line for the wing mating areas, which is rib (W3). I will cut four new (W3's) out of 3/32" light ply for mating ribs and get rid of the balsa (W3's). The wing will be built in three sections, with the center section mounting as proposed on the plans. The socket and wing tube will run through the center (W1) rib, and out through both left and right (W6) ribs. The wing tube and socket is 7/8"x30".....

patternflyer76

Now its time to break out the ribs. These things are very nicely laser cut, so they come right out with no fuss. Also they have tabs for perfect alignment of incidence and no warp during building. I then got out my trusty scales to swap ribs back and forth to equal out in weight. It is very important to make sure you can balance out the weight from the very first. There is no reason to be adding lead to a wing tip. All it takes is a little planning. Also after I have taken the time to swap ribs from one wing set to another i have marked the right wing rib tabs with red magic marker and the left wing rib tabs with blue magic marker to keep them separated into the correct wing rib sets. I have marked the location on the ribs (W1-W6) for the wing tube and socket. Now I will be ready to cut these into the ribs. Once that is done than I can start building the wing.

Right Wing Ribs = 50g
Left Wing Ribs = 50g

Total Rib for Left and Right = 100g....

propbuster

My Feedback: (1)

Hey Kevin! I've been interested in how to make "Plug in Wings", Looking foward to following the build thread! [8D]

Free Bird

There is another build thread that shows how to do a 2 piece wing and it was very simple. The builder made a box in each wing panel for the dihedral brace. Other than making the boxes and reinforcements for them, no other mods were needed.

FB

kingaltair

My Feedback: (4)

Kevin

I would assume that the right wing has to be heavier than the left if you are going to side-mount your engine. Are you side-mounting, or mounting it inverted as per the original plans? If side mounted, shouldn't all the heavy ribs be on the right side?

I understand the "taildragger" idea as a way to save several ounces in the form of a nosewheel and nosegear in a plane that needs to be as light as possible due to SPA engine limitations. I just can't bring myself to do it.

Duane

patternflyer76

The engine is going inverted, and I'm going to build up the front cowl area around it just as on the plans. I then will take a saw right down the front face of the firewall. I then plan on making a plug of the front cowl area to make a mold for a CF/fiberglass cowl. Also the engine I will be using is the size of a 50 four stroke, but is a 91. It's a rotary 4 stroke engine. I've tested it and on 10% nitro will turn a 13.5x9 at 10000 RPM all day long.[>:] I'll get to all that stuff later in build though. Thanks for your concern.....

patternflyer76

Still working on it, just no extra time right now. Sorry, it should speed up before too long.[&o]

kingaltair

My Feedback: (4)

Knowing you as I do, I'm not the least bit concerned...just wanted to know what your plan was for the engine. That helps explain why you want the wing rib weight equal on each side. What you plan to do is the same as I have already done with my inverted engine Altair except I have not made the plug.

Every builder has his own preferences, and you may want to do this totally yourself, but I will offer the lower cowl piece I already have for your use if you want it to see if it might be suitable for a plug for both our planes, (and others), in the future? It might save you some time, and I could get a lightweight, replacable lower cowl piece in case of damage to the area. I've included pictures for you to look at...both with the cowl on and off.

Duane

RFJ

RCV 91CD ? If so would be interested what you think of it as I have one, new and unrun. My RCV 58CD is a great little engine but tends to be rather hard to turn when cold.

Ray

patternflyer76

Duane:

Thank you for the offer. I will have to build the front up just like I want the shape to be with no holes for engine, muffler, needle valve, or bolt slots. A plug has to be one continuous shell with no breaks. I plan on shaping it to what I like, then sawing it off strait down the firewall. Then I will use my plug technique to make a mold. This way I will have a perfect shaped cowl from CF/fiberglass, which I can make many more of in the future and it would be one piece. Also if I decided to mount different engines, or different angles, all I would have to do is cut the CF/fiberglass cowl for what is required to fit. Also if anyone else may want one, they may not have their engine mounted the same way or the same engine, so they could cut out what they need to make it fit their setup.

Thanks though

patternflyer76

Ray:

You hit it on the head. These are the most powerful and unique engines I have ever seen. The engineering is amazing to me. They are a little on the heavy side, but a great fit in small nose mount areas. Very high speed low drag. I've only ran mine in on a stand so far (about a gallon), so I can testify to the performance on the ground, but not in the air yet. They seem to have a little higher ideal at first, but after about 1/2 to 3/4 of a gallon ran through it starts slowing down to a very good and reliable idea speed. The high end has improved each run as well and has seemed to top out around 10100 to 10050 RPM on 10% nitro....

patternflyer76

Sorry everyone but I've been out of town on some last minute training with my full time job. Scheduled to return on 12-18-2008. Plan on starting back this weekend.

Thanks....[8D]

Jeff Worsham

My Feedback: (28)

Kevin- what prop were you using?

patternflyer76

I was using a 13.5x9 APC.

patternflyer76

I finally made it back home from a long trip that I really did not want to be on to begin with. When I returned, there was a package waiting for me. It was my 7/8"x 30" PBG Composites CF wing tube and socket from Radio South. (By the way, Thanks Tony, super fast shipping)... Also included was the Gator style Adj. Stab. kit from Radio South. I have included some pictures of my custom building table as well. I build with magnets so it has a portable top with a metal sheet on top with a base that has adjustable legs and storage. Check it out. If anyone is interested in one I would be more than happy to quote a price for you, magnets, jigs, and all....

patternflyer76

More Pics of Building Table... I keep trying to upload these pics, but I keep getting a busy server I'll try later guys.

Sorry[&o]

patternflyer76

Maybe they will come through!!!!

Balsawings

That work bench is way to clean to work on. How can you stand it.

Bob Cox
SPA 374

patternflyer76

Well Bob, I am kinda a neat freak and a little (whole lot) retentive about things. I am one of those that have to have the vacuum running right behind me after drilling, sanding, or routing. No dust, no mess, I feel better. They say there is medicine for that, but I really like being this way. My quality may go down if I had to get on that stuff.

patternflyer76

I've done a little test run on balsa and light ply to make sure my hole saw is just right for the CF socket....

patternflyer76

So it all fits great. Its time to cut the holes in the ribs for real. I am cutting the 7/8" hole in ribs (W1-W6). I am cutting the hole in both L and R wing ribs at the same time for each counterpart. Remember, I have already calculated and marked the hole positions for the decline of the tube through the wing. This will provide for the correct dihedral for the wing. It will be split at rib (W3) on each side. This will make for a 3 piece wing. I'll be able to make the center section removable from the fuse if wanted, or I would just leave it attached as normal and detach the left and right wing sections for easy and fast travel. More pics.....