RE: Aurora 60 Build Thread - Electric Power
 

That is probably the best set up yet in a classic Pattern plane. I love the plug in and adj. wings and stab. I defifinately will have to do that!!
Nice organized set up!

What about color schemes??


DM

RE: Aurora 60 Build Thread - Electric Power
 

Nice installation on your Aurora. Yup, the Clik is one of the hot F3P planes at the moment.

Tom

RE: Aurora 60 Build Thread - Electric Power
 

Folks, an update on the finishing phase as I continue to whittle away at this fun project.

I'm really enjoying working with the Polycrylic finish as described earlier. The fuselage will soon be ready for paint and the process has been rather painless....say as compared to the cloth/resin method which I often employed in the past. A few things learned on my part using the Polycrylic:
-don't sand until you've applied at least 4 coats (apply it un-cut right out of the can)
-wet sanding is a must. Dry sanding clogs the paper rather quickly. I'm using #320 paper and it's dead easy with the Polycrylic medium breaking down nicely and not clogging the paper at all.
-I'll likely need only 1 or 2 more final coats and I'll be left with a super smooth surface to prime. I'll likely use #400 or finer for the final wet sanding.

So far, I'm absolutely impressed...and sold on this finishing method, for an electric anyway. I'm wondering about the effect that nitro might have on such a finish even though the finish will be sealed with automotive clear-coat.??

Jeff

RE: Aurora 60 Build Thread - Electric Power
 

Photo's....We need Photos!! :D :D :D

But seriously...Great Stuff Jeff!! And I am looking forward to more pics whenever you can...

Have Fun...

Chuck

RE: Aurora 60 Build Thread - Electric Power
 

I imagine the holidays have had your time consumed, as with just about everyone else. [:@]
Any new progress/ideas on your "one of a kind" Aurora??


DM

RE: Aurora 60 Build Thread - Electric Power
 

what a great tip on the sanding. i have been drysanding my polycrilic before going to primer. the wet sanding opens up a whole new book on smooth. thx

david

RE: Aurora 60 Build Thread - Electric Power
 

Dave, I'm glad to hear that someone is picking up useful tidbits from my thread.

DM, you're indeed correct about my holiday time having evaporated. In all fairness though, I did channel some time to finish my Clik (photo attached) which is now ready to fly. It should be a real blast as I hear it's an exceptional flyer.

Ref the Aurora, I'm guessing no more than 10 hours total work until she's ready for primer. Seeing as I can't spray the automotive clear coat until spring when the warm weather returns, there's no hurry really.

Jeff

RE: Aurora 60 Build Thread - Electric Power
 

considering the results for the 10 hrs of work it is well worth it (in my opinion) to use the polycrylic and 3/4 oz cloth. can't weait to see yours primered.

david

RE: Aurora 60 Build Thread - Electric Power
 

Well, I'm back at it after focusing mostly on the indoor pattern (F3P) stuff. F3P is harder than it looks but it's sure a lot of fun! I recommend it for those of you out there looking for a challenge, but be forewarned, it's humbling....the walls aproach quickly.

Back to the Aurora. I've sanded the entire airplane and for the most part, it's ready for one last coat of Poly and then a final wet sand. The one exception is the front of the fuselage where I've yet to fit the canopy. That's next and in preparation, I just airbrushed the cockpit interior a medium grey. I prefer grey over black. Next will be gluing the canopy on.

Jeff

RE: Aurora 60 Build Thread - Electric Power
 

The canopy is now permanently in place. I'll be applying filler next and will hopefully be able to acheive a perfect blend with the fuselage.

As you can see from the photos, I used my Dremel to cut a groove into the fuse so that the canopy could be countersunk. That's pretty much required on the Aurora given the way the canopy meets the fuselage. In 8178's Blue Angel build, he didn't have to do that given the angles that the canopy intersect the fuse at. On the Aurora, for much of the canopy, the transition from fuselage to canopy is pretty much along the same line...if that makes any sense.

Anyhow, I spent a good 30 minutes getting the groove just right. I used 15 minute epoxy to apply the canopy and it turned out pretty good. I should be able to acheive a somewhat seamless blend with minimal work. I've applied extra thick masking tape to the canopy to protect it from the next step which involves filling and sanding.

That's all for now.

Jeff

RE: Aurora 60 Build Thread - Electric Power
 

Jeff,

I'm sure I'm speaking for all of us here: we are anxiously waiting for more!

RE: Aurora 60 Build Thread - Electric Power
 

Nothing like being reminded of how long it's been since my last post. It shamed me into doing some work today and after a few hours this afternoon, I'm very close to being ready for primer. I only have to re-sand 2 small spots that need touching up with one last coat of Poly.

It's now homework time given that I'm unfamiliar with the water-based paint system that I plan to try. Because I plan to airbrush all lettering on the plane, I also have to produce templates for lettering the wings and fuselage. I've attached a scan of the 'Aurora' logo from the MK plans. I'll use Photoshop to manipulate to the 2 different sizes required. I'd like to use the same font for my name, MAAC #, JR and Hyperion logos, etc.

Can anybody help with identifying the font in the attachment so I can make my own logos? I've searched the font catalogues within Microsoft Word and Powerpoint and I can't seem to fing anything close.

Jeff

RE: Aurora 60 Build Thread - Electric Power
 

Good to see you back at it.

Google "free fonts" and you will find several sites that let you download fonts. You have to install them into Windows. You should find one very close.

David

RE: Aurora 60 Build Thread - Electric Power
 

In Microsoft Word I tried Imprint MT Shadow in Bold Italic. It looks pretty close.

Best Wishes,

Neil

RE: Aurora 60 Build Thread - Electric Power
 

Neil, you're right. Not only is it close enough, it might even provide just the right contrast, especially unbolded but with the gaps filled-in.

Thanks mate, I appreciate your taking the time to find that for me!

Jeff

RE: Aurora 60 Build Thread - Electric Power
 

Cool Jeff! you are back. Can't wait for you to finish and fly this one.

I think one of these two fonts will work for you. You might have to do some photoshop work on the A

New Aster™ Bold Italic or New Aster™ Black Italic

RE: Aurora 60 Build Thread - Electric Power
 

OK folks, some comparative weight data WRT the Poly prep method....finally.

You'll recall that I listed the following starting reference weights back on page 5 of this build.
-Fuse (minus belly pan, motor, and nosegear) = 562 grams
-Single wing panel including aileron (no gear or servo) = 205 grams
-Stab half, including elevator = 72 grams

Now that the aircraft is ready for paint, I weighed the same parts again to see how much weight was added by the cloth and Poly.

-the fuse weighed an additional 127 grams
-each wing panel (w/ail) weighed an additional 48 grams
-each stab (w/elev) weighed an additional 16 grams

Therefore the overall weight gain from this prep method is approx 255 grams, or .56 lbs. I'll re-weigh one last time after the paint has been applied. Should be interesting.

O'Kelly, thanks!!

Jeff

RE: Aurora 60 Build Thread - Electric Power
 

Jeff, do I need to come all the way to Ottawa to twist your arm to complete this one ;)

RE: Aurora 60 Build Thread - Electric Power
 

The distractions of summer, family obligations (holidays etc) have taken their toll. Given the weather here in Ottawa, I have no more than 2 months to get the finish applied to my Aurora. I'll be shooting paint shortly...hopefully.

In the meantime, have a look at what I just picked-up. It's an original Fliteglass Saturn (1975) kit. The glasswork is quite nice although maybe a bit heavier compared to today's standard. It's still lighter than most of the stuff from that era, a lot of which came with that extra layer of gel coat on the outside. The foam is in OK shape considering the years this puppy has been in storage. Anyhow, a comparative shot of the Saturn and Aurora fuses side by side.

Jeff

RE: Aurora 60 Build Thread - Electric Power
 

I'll be starting to apply the finish later today. As mentioned earlier, I'm going to try the water-based Auto Air airbrush paint system on this airplane. I did a quick compatibility test of the paint using the belly pan and all appears to be OK. One of the attached photos shows the paints I'll be using including the reducer and the white coloured sealer. I'll continue to post as the job progresses.

Of note is that the glasswork on the bellypan is very good. Light, sufficiently rigid, and virtually no pinholes! Hint...it's not the original MK produced pan.

Jeff

RE: Aurora 60 Build Thread - Electric Power
 

Sealer coat applied. The colours are next.

Jeff

RE: Aurora 60 Build Thread - Electric Power
 

The painting continues in bit's & bites given my busy schedule. Anyhow, the white has been applied and I'll give it a few days to dry before I follow with the other colours.

Everyone reading this thread no-doubt has at least a moderate amount of experience applying a paint finish. Given that my own finishing skills are average and I don't think I have any earth-shattering finishing secrets to reveal, I'll limit my comments to the water-based Auto-Air paint system. I'm guessing that few modelers (if any) have gone this route.
I viewed Auto-Air's "how-to" video before starting and noted that the application of this system is much like any other automotive base/clear system which I've used in the past. Points to note:
-when using the white sealer and white semi-opaque colour, apply multiple thin coats or you'll induce runs. the colours available are all semi-opaque so be patient;
-wet sanding between coats is not recommended as the paint and/or sealer will quickly start to dissolve despite it being dry beforehand. This is handy only if you're trying to break down a run in the paint;
-#350 or 400 dry sanding works OK between coats. Apply only light pressure as the paint has a tendency to roll a bit when sanded;
-you can shoot the stuff right out of the bottle but I found this left a grainy surface. Approx 20% reducer seems about right. In the video in which they painted a car, they shot the paint straight from the bottle;
-absolutely no stink or fumes;
-cleanup is a breeze using only hot water;
-1 4oz bottle of each the sealer and white covered the entire aircraft. The bottles cost me appox $9.00 each at the local over-priced art shop.....so the stuff is relatively well priced for this application.

That's all for now.

Jeff

RE: Aurora 60 Build Thread - Electric Power
 

Jeff,

your Aurora is looking great! I was curious about the water based paint as I'm working toward building an electric Tiporare; albeit in a smaller size. Please do post more comments about the finish as you go along.

If I'm not mistaken you recently moved from Colorado. Sounds like you've settled well into your new Ottawa digs. I guess we're now neighbors (well a couple of hours away or so). And... by the looks so of it, like any good Coloradan, you also enjoy a good ride! Nice rims you've got there.

I hope you get to maiden the bird before the summer is over. Winter strikes like lightning 'round these parts... but it'd be fair to say that we're in the thick of summer. It didn't stop p*** rain all July and most of August!

Cheers, David.

RE: Aurora 60 Build Thread - Electric Power
 

As you can see from the photos, I've applied the gold around the canopy as well as the red on the upper half of the fuselage.

After initially applying the gold, I realized that I didn't like the way it followed the curved bottom of the canopy. It certainly was different compared to both Naruke's and Helm's painted version. After scratching my brow (and maybe a curse or two), I decided to correct the line that the gold made. I think the photos illustrate what I'm talking about. What you don't see is that the red will cover over the curved gold portion so that the gold skirting the bottom of the copy will be as per the original.
Next was the red which went on real nice using 4 thin coats. The red as you see it used approx 15cc of paint. The Auto-Air stuff covers quickly after a few light coats.
Next step is to paint a thin (2mm) black pinstripe against the red.

Additional pointers ref Auto-Air:
-the stuff is easy to mask and I've had no lifting issues whatsoever using both Tamiya masking tape and the green painters masking tape. The Tamiya tape is low tack, flexible, expensive, and great for curves.
-I'm using my Monokote heat gun to flash the paint between coats which is the procedure recommended by Auto-Air. Of course I'm being careful not to overheat anything.

Speaking of heat, check out the link below to another thread. It pertains to Polycrylic finish and the resultant finish bubbling when exposed to the heat of the sun. I looked for such a thread after my father called me ref what recently happened to his own airplane after it was sitting in the sun on a real hot day. See the attached photo of his wing. Anyhow, I find the thread somewhat inconclusive as the real reason for the bubbling is difficult to determine. Having said that, I can't help wonder if this Aurora is doomed to the same fate. I used Sig dope and dope thinner to seal the balsa...3 coats as I recall. Comment??

http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/m_5631297/printable.htm

RE: Aurora 60 Build Thread - Electric Power
 

It should stay down just fine.
I have had some silkspan paper covered models show a little lifting after being rained on and then the sun coming out and beating on it, but that is pretty severe temp/moisture change.
The acrylic on top is the part I don't know about. I've used acrylic lacquer for years and never had gross problems like that shown.
Possibly the mechanical bonding of the water based stuff isn't as secure as the chemical bonding of lacquer onto dope, but if it's clean and semi wet when applied, I'll bet you have minimum problems.
The model is looking good.
Chris...