Bill Yonescu

My Feedback: (44)

I am in the process of trying to use H9 Ultracote paint for the cowl and dome of the TF Bonanza.

This has got to be the worst paint on the market. It really doesn't match the Ultracote covering (White) with the paint being more on the cream side, and after 4 days the paint still gets soft when alcohol is put on it. (I didn't apply it too heavill

I used the H9 paint because I wanted to match the covering.... here it doesn't match and doesn't seem to dry either. JUNK!!!

Can you tell I'm frustrated!!

Has anyone used this stuff with success??? What good alternatives are there???

Bill

pettit

My Feedback: (23)

What color primer and the type, did you put on before spraying the UltraPaint? If you used gray primer, that's why the outcome is darker than expected.

Next time use a lacquer base auto primer that's white, rather than gray. I use this under al the paint I spray from "shake and shoot" cans.

Let the primer set up overnight, even though they say it dries in an hour.

Steve Campbell2

Three days ago, I shot some black onto a butyrate canopy frame for a Top Flite Contender. It dried to the touch in less than an hours, and seems to be setting up (curing, so to speak) well.

I used no primer, nor did I "scuff" the butyrate plastic. It went on smoothly, with no runs or spatters, and left a clean, crisp masking line from the 3M tape. This stuff smells like regular, garden-variety enamel. We'll see how it "handles", but so far, no drama.

I'll be applying it to the metal landing gear legs today. These, I prepped by sanding and cleaning with acetone.

Without fail, every time I've tried LusterKote, it has dried with an "orange peel" surface. This UltraPaint looks very smooth and even. Right now, I'm satisfied...

Steve

Bill Yonescu

My Feedback: (44)

Thanks for your help.

On the color match problem, I didn't use a primer. The directions said this was ok. I sanded the surfaces with 400 grit. Both the cowl and dome were white already. The dome was ABS plastic and the cowl was FG. The color isn't too far off but I would expect that a "matching" paint from the same company would be a lot closer.

My paint also dried to the touch in less that an hour. Now almost 6 days later, it still gets attacked by denatured alcohol. Can't possibly get fuel on it.

I heard of a problem with the H9 P-51 (ARF) cowl not being fuel proof. Since that palne is covered with ultracote I'd bet that the paint they used was their "matching" ultracote paint.

Looking again at the can of the H9 paint I don't see the words "FUEL PROOF". I guess I'm going to have to overspary with a clear "FUEL PROOF" paint. Not sure what to use since it could attack the H9 paint.

I wish there was a forun dedicated to painting.

Bill

PS I used some TF Lustrekote paint ( Stated on the can to be "FUEL PROOF")on a engine test stand about 2 months ago. No problems at all... definately fuel proof.

FLYBOY

My Feedback: (11)

Make it easy on yourself. Stick a piece of the covering on a piece of balsa, take it to your local auto paint store, have them mix up some paint that matches and put it in a rattle can, use the primer they suggest and you will have a perfect match. I have never missed that way. With TF and others that are supposed to match covering, I have never had one even close.

Bill Yonescu

My Feedback: (44)

Thanks FLYBOY.

I've read about the various paints not matching... but thought white would be easy.

What paint do I ask for? Will it be fuel proof?? What is a rattle can?

Bill

ilrcflyboy

My Feedback: (5)

I think most of us snatched up the Hangar 9 paint because of the cost difference: $4-6 for Ultracote Paint, or $80 for automotive (good stuff).

I'm guilty of having the H9 paint bug. Painted a cowl, bellypan and canopy on my Suk 26. The cowl is fiberglass, the bellypan is ABS and the canopy is lexan. While the paint didn't match, it isn't far off. Even with clear coat, 10% nitro eats through it. I understand, though, that this is common.

Bill Yonescu

My Feedback: (44)

I'm going to try and find a clear water based Polyurethane to cover spray the H9 paint.

I'll post my results.


Bill

dant-RCU

My Feedback: (3)

Bill:

Be careful with the water based Poly-U. The only one I have found that is fuel proof (at least to 15% nitro which is what I use) is Flecto's Varathane Diamond floor finish and it is currently selling for about $42.00/gallon at Lowe's. I have never seen it in anything smaller than gallons. Since I use this stuff for fuel proofing, flight boxes, fuel carriers and glassing buying a gallon makes (or made) sense. I understand that Deft also makes a super hard floor finish in water based also but I have never used it.

MinWax, which seems to be the most popular, has never worked for me in any application where it is exposed to nitro based fuels.

However, that being said, I have never used Varathane to spray over a painted finish. So far, I have had good luck with Lusterkote paints (including clear which I use to over spray my home made decals) and all of the Coverite 21st century paints.

I have a pair of wheelpants painted in Red Ultrapaint that seem to be doing fine. They don't get a lot of exposure to fuel but the right one does get some. Been in use about two months so far. I did not clearcoat them, just 4 coats of Red (2 mist, 1 light and 1 heavy). Seemed to dry OK; I think I let them set for 2 days in the shop before I handled them.

My experience in this area.

Dan

Bill Yonescu

My Feedback: (44)

Thanks for the heads up Dan. I thought that all water based polys would be fuel proof. Now I'm not sure what to do.

Lustrekote is fuel proof but I'm afraid that it will disturb the ultracote. I tested some Aerogloss clear on the Ultracote and it dissolves it immediately.

I guess I'm not flying the plane this weekend

Bill

apman

My Feedback: (1)

Bill ,

I think your problem is the denatured alcohol.
That is commonly used for stripping lacquer/cellulose paints from furniture and other items. It softens the paint or stain and allows it to be wiped or scraped off.
I would guess you are causing your own problem by using it.

Hope this helps.

Rick

WADE

My Feedback: (19)

I didn't realize that local stores could put it in an aerosol can. I'll have to check locally and see if they can do it here. That would be neat.

Wade

LSP972

My Feedback: (13)

Ditto on MinWax water-based polyurethane; it is NOT fuel-proof. Found out the hard way...

My can of Black H9 UltraPaint says it is fuelproof up to 15% nitromethane. But as I noted in another thread, it has a strong "enamel' smell that LusterKote does not; and I know LusterKote is at least fuel proof.

Doesn't go on worth a crap, but it IS fuel-proof...

Steve

Bill Yonescu

My Feedback: (44)

I used the black Lustrekote paint on an engine test stand and it has not been affected by soaking in 15%.

It didn't go on too badly but it took several cotes with the last one pretty heavy to get a good gloss. I wasn't looking for a good gloss, I just wanted a very good layer of paint to stop the fuel from soaking into the wood.

I wish I had used Lustrekote on my Bonanza. I might have to put a water Poly-u on first and then something that is fuel proof.


Bill

Bill Yonescu

My Feedback: (44)

Here's a photo of the Bonanza.

The color mis-match isn't too bad but I put a lot of work into masking and painting the windows so I really don't want to have to strip it all and start again.

Bill

xp8103

My Feedback: (16)

Bill,
I found the same issues you did with the new H9 Ultrapaint. It sux. The old Goldberg Ultrapaint (smaller, different cans) was MUCH MUCH MUCH nicer to use and dried rock hard. Like you, I found the new H9 paint to be really soft even after it has dried. The old colors matched VERY well. The current colors no so much.
You would think that given the amount of time it took H9 to put out the new paint, they would have done a better job. If you look at the can, it IS an enamel based paint. I am disappointed to say the least.
OTOH, I have used Lustrecote a couple of times and found it to be fuel proof just fine.

Bill Yonescu

My Feedback: (44)

Hi xp

I agree with you. I would think H9 could do a much better job with the matching and can't begin to understand how they sell a paint for this hobby that isn't fuel proof.

Just for fun I tried some "Swift White" LustreKote paint that I had on a scrap piece of the same ABS plastic. I dried in less than a 1/2 hour and is a better match (not perfect) to the H9 Ultracote covering than the H9 paint.

I wish there was a H9 manufacturer's forum on RCU.

Bill

slick95

Here is my problem with the paint. I used the dark yellow ultra-cote and ultra-paint to spray onto a Bucker Yungmann I'm recovering. Both of the colors match perfectly and I didn't use any of their primer. The problem is drying as before. I sprayed the top of the fuselage and the paint has been on for two weeks but is still not dry [:@][:@]!!! I though it was dry after about a week, that is how long I usually wait for any brand of paint to dry. Over the yellow I need to paint a black stripe. When I go to mask of the area of the stripe the texture of the paint changes where I laid down the masking tape. It looks like the sticky side of the tape stayed on the surface while I took the rest. It had been sitting for a week when I first tried to mask it. I figured that this paint takes longer to dry than others. After two weeks I tried again and it did the same thing. I've tried many different masking tapes and they all come out with the same results. As I said before I think the problem is that the paint isn't drying for some reason. I live in Central Texas and the past few weeks it has been in the high 70's low 80's and very dry. Almost perfect for painting. I was wondering if anyone here knows a solution to my problem?

SLICK

Bill Yonescu

My Feedback: (44)

I've had the same problem with two other brands of paint .. Top Flight LusterKote and F&M Enterprises (Stits). I used "blue" 3M painters Masking tape both times. I think that the problem is more of the solvent from the new coat of paint getting through the masking tape and marring the paint underneath the tape. Not at the edge of the tape but through the tape itself.

The next time I try I will use a very light coat of paint over the masked area, let that dry well, and then another coat for the finished job.

Bill

Floater-RCU

Hi Bill,
What you might like to try is to give your masked edges and the tape it self a light coat of clear to seal everything before painting. Someone gave me that hint a while back and I found that it works very well for me. Nice crisp lines and no creep.

Floater

Bill Yonescu

My Feedback: (44)

Hi Floater,

Thanks for your suggestion.

I also give a first coat of either clear or the color under the masking tape. This usually prevents the "bleeding" when the tape is removed. My problems and what I thought slick95's problem was is more in the center of the tape and looks like the tape left some adhesive after it was pulled off.

I wish there was a dedicated forum to Painting on RCU.


Bill

BigSkyRCFlyer

My Feedback: (36)

I used some of the Ultracote paint about 4 months ago, and I think it is still tacky! This was my frist time using the Hangar 9 paint, and I will not be using any more. It was "orange" and did not match the Ultracote Covering, nor did it dry. I was not very happy with this paint, after using Lusterkote for many years. Temps were warm & within the specs on the can, and the paint can was shaken not stirred for about 2-5 min. Maybe I got a bad can???

Bill Yonescu

My Feedback: (44)

Sorry to hear about your bad experiences with H9 paint. I won't used them anymore either. I doubt you got a "bad" can. Some of their colors may dry but I'm not taking any chances.

I, more recently tried paint from F&M Enterprises. I used an inexpensive HVLP spray gun and got fantastic results ( except for my masking tape problem). I'm not sure how fuel proof this stuff is though. I'll find out soon I guess. (haven't flown her yet.)

Bill

I had to attach a picture.

Floater-RCU

Very, very nice results if I do say so myself!

slick95

WOW!!! that is a good looking model. Yes my problem is with the center of the masking tape not the edges.
SLICK