flycatch

My Feedback: (26)

What can I use to get the glow fuel residue removed from the outside casing of the glow engine and muffler?

G8er

http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...BRZU&P=7  there use to be a product that was called nitro blast i want to say, that worked really well, i dont have first hand experience with the HPI stuff but i am sure its all the same, i think people use to use brake cleaner in a can as well, never tried it personally so i cant say for sure on how it works

flycatch

My Feedback: (26)

I tried brake cleaner and it does not work. Need a solvent that dissolves the oil component of the fuel.

Herbs_007

Some guys at the my club use Glycol, and swear by it. But you have to soak the donk in it for 24 hours though.

flyinwalenda

My Feedback: (5)

I have a bottle of some product from the 80's that worked with a lot of elbow grease but never really did a great job. The best method I and others use is to remove the engine from the plane, remove the carb, plug,muffler, and backplate. Get an old crockpot (Thrift store) and some antifreeze. Put about 2/3 antifreeze and 1/3 water in the pot along with the engine,muffler,&backplate. Set it to low,put the lid on and let it cook for 12-24 hours. Get an old toothbrush ready and then remove the parts. Most will only need to be wiped down but if there was a lot of build-up it will probably need a brushing and perhaps a re-do. Oil up the engine after.

red head

Go to Walmart in the soap section ( probably other stores also ) and pick up some " Dawn Power Desolver ". Close any openings on your engine then spray the areas you want to clean, heads, muffler etc. ( it's a gell when sprayed ). Let it soak for a few minutes then use a brush ( tooth brush works good ) to scrub it a bit. Then hose it clean with water. Do Not leave it sit long and be sure to spray it all off good. It works great, might take a couple applications but it WORKS !!!! ENJOY !!! RED

SBOT

I recently used the anti-freeze crockpot method on an old super tiger .40. It worked great making the engine look like new again, but after the crockpot cleaning the engine had very little compression. Did not seem to hurt the preformance any; it starts easily and runs great, but there is very little resistance at TDC. If I used this method again I would remove the piston and liner maybe the crank and just clean the case head and muffler.
Then again like I said the engine preforms well; just feels strange flipping the prop. This engine used to really snap when you flipped the prop thru compression.

gearhead777

Carefull with brake clean, I work with the stuff every day, it breaks down plastics and pvc.

rcbadger

My Feedback: (14)

I have used the antifreeze/crock pot method numerous times, all with excellent results, though, as mentioned, you need to remove the engine from the aircraft. Once it's been in the heated soak for 12 hrs or more, a toothbrush will EASILY remove any remaining particles.

I've never suffered any loss in compression due to this method, and I know this as I've used a compression gauge on all my engines at regular intervals, and after any mechanical work.

Also, it's likely you are using a castor oil blended fuel. None of the synthetics I know of leave the "coked-up" residue on the engine. After cleaning, you might consider changing to a 100% synthetic blend...

50+AirYears

I just did a number of older engines with the Dawn Power disolver, and found it works great. In the past, I've used a product that used to be sold for cleaning glow engines, can't remember the name, but it used to require setting a half hour or more before rinsing off. I cleaned off an old Cox Golden Bee from castor oil goop and assorted other crud from 40 years accumulation in just 15 minutes. I just applied the Daw, let it sit about 5 minutes, then cleaned off with an old tooothbrush and warm, soapy water. Just had to repeat once on part of the cylinder fins.
My experience with all synthetic fuels gave me the impression that while they might be great for most newer engines with things like AAC, ABC, ABN plating technologies, but if you have older iron piston/steel cylinder engines, have aat least 20% oil, and at least half that oil being Castor. I wrecked a couple very good steel/iron engines the first time I tryied all-Syn fuel

rcbadger

My Feedback: (14)

Fifty +, Good info. The anti-freeze/crock pot method has some serious drawbacks; dismount of engine required, fumes, a crock pot that can never be used for food again, a hot batch of liquid, etc. It seems the Dawn Power dissolver alleviates several of these negatives.

Further, I was unaware, as I'm sure many are, of the older engine's food requirements.

Thanx for the tips.

H5606

The crockpot/antifreeze method has worked very well for me too after complete disassembly; I don't place plastic or anodized parts in as I'm not sure they would fare well.

I always despised the ugly baked on mess you see on four stroke mufflers - I tried syn fuel, painting the muffler and header pipe black, sealing joints with hi-temp RTV, etc, but nothing worked as well as simply applying Dawn Power Dissolver to the header and muffler before flight. When you're done for the day just wipe off and it looks as clean and shiny as new.

I can't take credit for the idea above, I read an article in Flying Models or RCM that stated the author used Pam cooking spray to coat his muffler in the same manner - it didn't work for me using a Food Lion equivalent but the DPD does very well.