hookedonrc

I an recovering my Ultra Stick Lite after several years in the attic. I am using ultra cote and am at the point where I am covering the vertical stab. Since it is already assembled, it needs to be covered in place. Not a major problem except for the area where it meets the fuse. Starting at that front of the stab, I have well over 1/2" to attach the covering to, but it narrows to less than 1/8" at the back end. Does anyone out there have any tips or a site (you tube or other) that lays out the best process? All the ones I have found so far show the process with the stab before it is installed.

vicman

My Feedback: (10)

When I do corners and things like you are describing, I usually cut a 1/2" strip and apply it with my trim iron into the corner. Being narrow it will conform to the contour a little easier. This gives you a nice little hem to join up to with the larger pieces.

I do this before any of the larger pieces go on the fuse as well. It's kind of like flashing the corner of a roof line.

hookedonrc

I had thought of that and it may be the way I end up doing it. The issue I am running to is the fuse side is pearl white as is the stab also pearl white. The fuse top, which is the 3rd surface, is pearl blue. So what I will be doing is flashing with pearl blue and then covering over with the white which is reverse of the recommended process of laying down light color first. Doing the flashing with white first means that the overlay into the joint area needs to be very narrow at the back end and absolutely perfect along where the stab joins the fuse. Normally, the horizontal stab would cover this area, but on a stick, this attaches on the fuse bottom, so it is very visible.

This may be the way I end up doing it and I am considering creating a paper pattern to ensure a proper fit. I am hoping there might be an easier process, but this may be it.

vicman

My Feedback: (10)

I use paper patterns a lot. Try to flash with the white if you can. Another thing I have done is just cut a slit at the end of the top piece, once I'm happy with all the tacks I use a thin straight edge and cut it as close to the corner as possible.

Paper works the best and cheapest way for me though.

macdona

My Feedback: (3)

Just like vicman said. been doing it that way for years. I also use paper patterns.

hookedonrc

I think I have it now. I finished the fuse sides with the white. Then I constructed the paper pattern... Actually it is made with card material like in a 3x5 card, but in a much larger size. These large cards are one of the best tools I have used for creating patterns for parts. Anyhow, I have used the white for flashing and am taking pics as I progress. This afternoon is covering the with
white then the overlay of the blue on the fuse top and down the side of the stab. Will post the pics when done.

vicman

My Feedback: (10)

I lightly spray contact cement on the paper and then glue it to the backing of the covering that way nothing moves.

Just make sure you glue the right side of the pattern or you will get a reverse image of the covering. I don't know how many wing panels I have done backwards.[&:]

hookedonrc

Too late vicman...I now have 2 left side of the stab if I need it. No big deal though, I didn't glue the pattern to it so I just reversed the next one and it was fine. I have the blue covering cut and partially installed. Using my trim tool, I have put on one side. My back is killing me from leaning over the bench so many hours. So I am on a short break, but should still finish the base coating shortly. I plan on adding stripes, but those can be added later after I shrink all the new covering. I hope ultra cote has a lot of shrink capability as I have a big wrinkle close to the wing saddle on the blue I just put on. Still taking pics and will post.

vicman

My Feedback: (10)

LOL,[:@]
You can put contact cement on over the film backing and re-use the pattern. I have a set of numbers cut out that I have used several times.

hookedonrc

Here are the pics. The blue edge came out rough so I will add a red stripe along the top. I tried brand new razor blades, but they cut like they were running through rubber.

JohnBuckner

My Feedback: (1)

Having done many refurbishments I often will go ahead and go to the trouble of removing the surface for covering separately Yes its a real pain.

However when I sometime choose to do as you are doing and recover the tail surfaces that are already married to the fuselage and you run across the situation where you describe that their is far less to iron to the the solution is easy.

Since you already have stripped the surface and just at the rear where you said there is insufficient area to iron to cut some soft balsa wedges and set in the corner dripping a few drops of thin CA . Now just sand carefully on the sides and you have far more surface to seal to. Its a simple trick that has helped me many times.

John

hookedonrc

Thanks John I will keep that in mind for future projects like this. However, the small area I was referring to is in the pictures and is the very narrow part of the blue covering at the far end. By making the card pattern I was able to slide the covering over the stab, and keep both ends attached until it was in place. Then when it was attached I cut the back pieces apart and trimmed them up.

hookedonrc

Here is the partial result after cleaning up the edges and adding the first pieces of trim. Next to be added will be the finished product. Thanks for all your help and replies.

JollyPopper

My Feedback: (6)

hookedonrc, maybe you are already doing this and just had some dull blades, but I find that if I make my cuts on glass I get much cleaner edges. An old window glass, coffe table top, any kind of a large sheet of glass will do.

hookedonrc

I will try that. Right now I am using one of those self healing cutting mats. I have an old bifold door half that I used 1/2of for a building board. I saved the second half to put a piece of glass on for just the thing you indicate. Now may be the time to take it down and put it to use. Somehow I think the misses would frown on me using our glass table in the breakfast area.

ptmac3

My Feedback: (3)

Single edged blade I assume? I use a double-edged razor blade for that, because they are thinner and therefore sharper than the single edge ones. One must handle it very carefully and have zero distractions while using it, but they will slice through covering material effortlessly and leave the cleanest line you will ever achieve.

hookedonrc

ptmac3....you are absolutely correct, a single edge razor. I am going through them almost 1 cut per blade... Well not really, but pretty close to that. I am going to do what Jollypopper suggests and move to a glass cutting surface, but need time to get it set up. I bought a pack of 100 single edge razor blades made by Stanley...well it is their name on the pack. They have to be some of the dullest razor blades right out of the box. I have some old belts in the closet and may appropriate one of them to make a strop for sharpening, but when the blade starts out dull I am not sure how affective it will be.

ptmac3

My Feedback: (3)

Hi Hooked. I have a building board I made some 20+ years ago. It is a 60x18x5/16's piece of glass with a 3/8's bulletin board glued to it, and polished edges. It is extremely flat with a cork surface for pinning on one side and when I flip it over I have this wonderful glass surface for laying out and cutting covering material. It works great. The method I described with the razor blade can also be done with a good pair of scissors and, of course, material already attached to the airframe. You don't cut with the scissors, you slide them through. I'm right handed, so I hold the airframe between my knees, pull the covering taught with my left hand and slide my cutting tool of choice through the material. With either tool you must get the cut started before they will slide/glide right through. I thank Harry Higley for these methods, as they are both described in his books.

hookedonrc

As promised, here are a couple of pictures of my progress. I am at the point now where I will be adding the rudder and elevator with Dubro pinned hinges. They are just in place now without any glue, which will be gorilla glue. I still have new decals to add, but that will be the final touch. I used the heat iron on the wing and luckily, all of it tightened up at 300 degrees which is the bottom temp for shrinking ultra cote. Will add the final pics when I am done. I can say that covering installed parts can be a pain, but taking time and thinking ahead sure helps.

vicman

My Feedback: (10)

I use GG for all my hinges anymore. I put a .18Ø hole in the center and the glue fills it like a rivet, no more pinning. If they can hold up to my racing antics I'm sure you will be fine.

I heat a little vaselene and dip the hinge break in to let it get all in the joint, then I give a little schmear on the covering around the slot to make clean-up easier. I also have an old syringe that I flattened the nose on so I just squirt in the slot. When I come back after a few hours of set up the foam action pops off pretty easily.
If you need pics of how well it locks the hinge in I can dig them up.

hookedonrc

I may do that for gluing them. I sure hate to drill through the covering just to pin them. Thanks for the tip on adding Vaseline to them, I had seen it mentioned in other threads. I think the drilled hole trick should work especially with 6 hinges on the elevator and 3 on the rudder. There should be plenty of holding power on each.

vicman

My Feedback: (10)

I use brass tube that I sharpened with a knife in my hand drill to put the hole in. A regular drill bit will want to grab.
Don't forget the schmere on your covering. It makes clean up a brazzilion times easier.