volcano wont start, please help
10-06-2013, 04:58 PM
#1
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volcano wont start, please help
I have a used volcano s30, yesterday I got it to start for about 10 secs then it died. Couldn't gcet it to start back up since. Ive checked the glow plug, the ignited and fuel lines. Still nothing, it seems to wanna start when I tilt it backwards but it never does. I don't know what else it could be. ike I said it started forbout 10 secs then died.any help would be appreciated. Thanks
10-06-2013, 07:29 PM
#3
If it ran for 10 seconds, it burned the fuel in the crankcase and then ran out of fuel and quit. Check compression. If little or none compression replace engine. Replace the fuel line, and the pressure line. replace the glow plug even if you think it's good. Then try to restart the engine. If problem persist, remove carb and clean it out. You may have a grain of dirt blocking the fuel ports. Try to restart. If it doesn't restart, check head and rear crankcase bolts.
Frank
Frank
10-07-2013, 06:18 AM
#4
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I checked fuel lines, replaced glow plug, cleaned Carb and completely disassembled the motor and cleaned everything. It has decent compression but still wont start. I'm using roto start and it wont start even if I put fuel in the carb
10-07-2013, 08:23 AM
#5
This may seem like a stupid question, but have you checked your glow driver? Are you sure that the glow plug is getting hot? The engine only needs three things to run, Air, fuel, and ignition. One of those three things is missing.
If you are putting fuel in the carb and it still is not firing, then fuel is not the problem.
If the carb is open and air can get in, then air is not the problem.
Only thing left is no ignition.
Or the fuel you are using is so old that is ain't fuel anymore.
Frank
If you are putting fuel in the carb and it still is not firing, then fuel is not the problem.
If the carb is open and air can get in, then air is not the problem.
Only thing left is no ignition.
Or the fuel you are using is so old that is ain't fuel anymore.
Frank
10-07-2013, 08:58 AM
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Im using the same glow driver and fuel that I use on my other nitro cars and buggys. It seemed to get a little more compression after I took apart the engine and cleaned everything. I'm bout to try and start it again. Ill keep u posted
10-07-2013, 02:14 PM
#9
You can up load it on U-tube and send me the link. Are you sure the carb isn't completely closed, and the low side needle is not screwed all the way in. If either of those are true, it won't start. Mark sure the carb is open about 1/16 of an inch. Turn the high side needle valve out 2 1/2 turns and give it a whirl.
10-07-2013, 04:54 PM
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10-08-2013, 10:57 AM
#14
Hard to tell from all the noise,, but it doesn't sound like it turning over that fast,,
Odd that it makes a different sound tilting the car up like that,, makes me think something is wrong with the one-way in the rotostart mech,
if you think it turning over as fast as it should,, another thing to check is that the exhaust nipple isn't clogged,, seen carbon build up in the pipe and block those too
Odd that it makes a different sound tilting the car up like that,, makes me think something is wrong with the one-way in the rotostart mech,
if you think it turning over as fast as it should,, another thing to check is that the exhaust nipple isn't clogged,, seen carbon build up in the pipe and block those too
10-08-2013, 11:18 AM
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Anything else u can think of? What if the crankshaft is slightly bent, would that keep it from starting? And how would I know if the engine is bad. It started once the other day due about 10 secs so I stumped.
10-08-2013, 12:03 PM
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Here is my piston and sleeve out of my nitro truck. Maybe u can tell me if you think its good or
bad. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=np8Fx-l2ors
bad. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=np8Fx-l2ors
Last edited by jonevans1; 10-08-2013 at 12:05 PM.
10-09-2013, 01:12 PM
#19
try this,, dump some after run oil in the glow plug hole, then turn the flywheel by hand to test if it has any compression at all, you shouldn't be able to turn it over very easy with that oil in there. if it has compression try and fire it up,, if it runs for only those few seconds again, then maybe is a low compression issue,, hard to tell without it in my hands,, seems like even with low compression is should still fire up some,, then get hot and die
10-13-2013, 04:27 PM
#22
Jon, I am sorry I haven't gotten back to you sooner. I had a contest this weekend and I was preparing for it.
From everything you did, the engine should start. However, since it seems to want to start when you elevate the tank above the engine, it seems that you are having a fuel feed problem. The gravity of the fuel in the tank wants to feed the carb, but not enough for the engine to start. Check the muffler pressure fitting and make sure it's not plugged. If the muffler pressure is not pressurizing the tank, it won't feed the carb.
Put your finger over the exhaust tube on the muffler and try and start the engine. You should see the fuel run through the fuel line to the carb. If it doesn't, your pressure fitting is plugged.
If you are getting muffler pressure to the tank, then there is another problem.
I know this may sound like a stupid question, but when you reassembled the engine, did you make sure you aligned the exhaust ports in the sleeve with the exhaust outlet? Most engines have a pin that will only let the sleeve seat when properly aligned. Some of the cheaply made Chinese engines (used by Redcat) don't have these pins.
Another problem can be a leaking rear gasket or leaking front bearing. The piston pressurizes the crank case and forces fuel up the intake ports to the cylinder. If there is a leak, the crank case won't be pressurized enough to feed the cylinder with fuel. Yes some fuel will make it to the cylinder, but not enough to run.
If the rubber o-ring is missing from the carb neck, it will cause it to run erratically also.
If there is little or no cylinder/piston compression, the engine won't start either. That engine should have a squeeze area when the piston reaches the top of the cylinder it gets really hard to push the piston through the sleeve. if the piston wants to just slide through the sleeve , the motor is worn out.
If the engine started for ten seconds when you first got it, there is a chance the previous owner put grease around the piston to increase the compression just long enough to get it to start. Once the grease was dissolved and burned out of the cylinder, the engine died and failed to restart.
Take the engine apart and check the clearance of the piston at the top of the sleeve and see if it gets tight. It should get so tight that the piston won't want to go all the way through and come out of the top of the sleeve. If it doesn't get tight, put some axle grease around the piston and put it back together and then see if it will start. If it starts, throw the engine away and get a new one. That engine is toast. Trying to get a piston and sleeve for that engine will cost as much as a new engine.
Frank
From everything you did, the engine should start. However, since it seems to want to start when you elevate the tank above the engine, it seems that you are having a fuel feed problem. The gravity of the fuel in the tank wants to feed the carb, but not enough for the engine to start. Check the muffler pressure fitting and make sure it's not plugged. If the muffler pressure is not pressurizing the tank, it won't feed the carb.
Put your finger over the exhaust tube on the muffler and try and start the engine. You should see the fuel run through the fuel line to the carb. If it doesn't, your pressure fitting is plugged.
If you are getting muffler pressure to the tank, then there is another problem.
I know this may sound like a stupid question, but when you reassembled the engine, did you make sure you aligned the exhaust ports in the sleeve with the exhaust outlet? Most engines have a pin that will only let the sleeve seat when properly aligned. Some of the cheaply made Chinese engines (used by Redcat) don't have these pins.
Another problem can be a leaking rear gasket or leaking front bearing. The piston pressurizes the crank case and forces fuel up the intake ports to the cylinder. If there is a leak, the crank case won't be pressurized enough to feed the cylinder with fuel. Yes some fuel will make it to the cylinder, but not enough to run.
If the rubber o-ring is missing from the carb neck, it will cause it to run erratically also.
If there is little or no cylinder/piston compression, the engine won't start either. That engine should have a squeeze area when the piston reaches the top of the cylinder it gets really hard to push the piston through the sleeve. if the piston wants to just slide through the sleeve , the motor is worn out.
If the engine started for ten seconds when you first got it, there is a chance the previous owner put grease around the piston to increase the compression just long enough to get it to start. Once the grease was dissolved and burned out of the cylinder, the engine died and failed to restart.
Take the engine apart and check the clearance of the piston at the top of the sleeve and see if it gets tight. It should get so tight that the piston won't want to go all the way through and come out of the top of the sleeve. If it doesn't get tight, put some axle grease around the piston and put it back together and then see if it will start. If it starts, throw the engine away and get a new one. That engine is toast. Trying to get a piston and sleeve for that engine will cost as much as a new engine.
Frank
