old timers look here must be 50+ years only
#3126
My Feedback: (6)
After removing all of the shot bags laid the wing on my table top and found I had about a 1/32 reverse warp the was wash out so I left it and the bird flew great for about 5 years, till I lost the elevator servo, so it self destroyed including the engine(sieto 150 golden Knight)
Try it it might work for you
Cheers Bob T
#3128
Well, the Cub flies so well that I aint gonna touch it. The other Cub was my Biper, which never made it past the Maiden and is TBR. Maybe I will try to fix the ing on that one, but if it matches the warp of the other Cub, not going to touch it. I used Aileron to adjust for the twist, so you can see them at neutral, they are not.
#3134
Join Date: Apr 2008
Location: Measnes, La Creuse, France.
Posts: 2,129
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123 Posts
I use alyphatic glue for most jobs, PVA white glue when I'm in full cheapskate mode, epoxy for areas which take a bit of a pounding like undercarriages and cyano for light repairs. I'm lucky in that I'm not affected by cyano fumes.
#3135
My Feedback: (6)
I don't think there is any one glue right for everything and more than one right glue depending on the job, like you I use a mixture of different glues. I know guys who build with all CA except for joining wings, gear, and firewalls and then they break out the epoxy. It's like covering with fiberglass there are a number of different resins to choose from and it comes down to personal preference.
#3136
RCU Forum Manager/Admin
My Feedback: (9)
I sure have missed Mike Buzzeo, he was always good for a laugh online and off, Ken you and he have been great teachers over the years, I finally just stayed with the ones where there is little to no bickering, I have been in this hobby for sometime and am still learning. Lots of great teachers on these forums, thank you all for that! Bob
Bob,
Thanks for the kinds words. The loss of Minnflyer hit my like a ton of bricks. When he and I met here on RCU we struck up an instant friendship that spanned online as well into the real world. We worked very well together and we able to compliment each other in the areas that we covered and we both enjoyed sharing and trying to teach and help as many people as we could. When he died it really hit me hard. That was a really rough week for me. I was talking with him on a Monday morning planning our trip to cover the annual Toledo show, and then that evening I got the call that he had passed. It ended up that I had to cover the show alone that year with no help, and man that was hard because not only was I alone but I was dealing with the loss of Mike too!!!!
And to add to what you all are talking about, I'm an young old timer, 51!!!. I'm the odd ball that I prefer to use Elmer's Carpenters Glue when I build. I feel that I get better builds as it gives stronger joints and gives me more time to position the joint before it sets. The only time I will use CA is when I'm hardening threads cut in wood or when I'm doing a review and the instructions call for CA. Or if a kit was designed for CA. That sounds odd, but I am currently working on the SR Batteries Eindecker and the spars are carbon fiber rods. They are designed for the ribs to be attached to them with CA and there really isn't any other way to do it. I wish there was because I really hate working with CA. I just don't like the fumes.
Ken
#3137
Thread Starter
I have never used titebond! is it a fast setting medium or more like ambroid?
medium CA is my mainstay thin ca on occasion with epoxy for structual stuff. I have found elmers glue to work wonders when I am not in a rush. I am preparing to use gorilla glue on the king kobra foam core wing skins but only epoxy to join them.
medium CA is my mainstay thin ca on occasion with epoxy for structual stuff. I have found elmers glue to work wonders when I am not in a rush. I am preparing to use gorilla glue on the king kobra foam core wing skins but only epoxy to join them.
#3138
Titebond is strong but like elmers, slow to cure and runs. The III is waterproof so works great in boats, but dried hard brownish yellow, so if you want to use transparent covering, the joints will stand out. I have never had a joint fail using Titebond, in fact the few major crashes I had caused me grief trying to fix due to the tough glue joints. That stuff is a pain to remove once bonded to the wood.
#3139
#3140
Thread Starter
Titebond is strong but like elmers, slow to cure and runs. The III is waterproof so works great in boats, but dried hard brownish yellow, so if you want to use transparent covering, the joints will stand out. I have never had a joint fail using Titebond, in fact the few major crashes I had caused me grief trying to fix due to the tough glue joints. That stuff is a pain to remove once bonded to the wood.
Spaceworm
Yes Ambroid is available but last I remember the price went sky high and I prefer CA over it.
#3141
Another cellulose glue alternative to Ambroid is Sigment. I've also used Duco Cement, but don't know its availability now. I've found both Titebond carpenter glue and competitors, and white Elmer's to work satisfactorily. Titebond is easier sandable, thus preferred.
#3142
DUCO cement if readily available "here" in the local hardware stores. I'm pretty sure every plane I've ever built has had DUCO in it - love the stuff!!!! However, I'm also pretty sure every plane I've ever built has had 2-3 different epoxys, one or another "white" wood glue (Titebond II for the past 30 years) and now several different CAs too.
They all work great for one thing or another - and they get used that way. It's how you get a 1974-built plane to stay together and in the air for 42 years.
(1967-designed CG Sr Falcon, built 1974, latest restoration 2015).
They all work great for one thing or another - and they get used that way. It's how you get a 1974-built plane to stay together and in the air for 42 years.
(1967-designed CG Sr Falcon, built 1974, latest restoration 2015).
#3144
My Feedback: (6)
just as a note I have used over the years ( 70 ) + most all of the glues at times and now prefer Titebond vary slightly thinned, as it penetrates wood better then med-Ca and of corse 30 min epocy other than hobby poxey. other wise it is a matter of personal choise.
Now I will go lay down by my dish and watch
Cheers Bob T
AMA13377
Now I will go lay down by my dish and watch
Cheers Bob T
AMA13377
#3145
Sincerely, Richard
[h=2]"Always on, a little off"[/h]
#3146
I think we all loved the "stuff". Likely why we are all a little "different". I myself have peripheral neuropathy that may be related to breathing all the fumes, including dope, banana oi, acetone, chlorinated hydrocarbons, brake fluid, gasoline, cyanated catalysts, etc etc etc.
#3147
I think that may hold true to everybody who used this stuff. Makes you feel good, and I found, does not affect the memory. In fact, smelling Dope brings back memories!
#3148
Thread Starter
#3149
Nah, but memories of when I was a kid and building the Guillows planes and using dope to cover them. Certain songs trigger memories when I was building models while listening to WLS AM when they played music.
#3150
My Feedback: (4)
I searched again for Ambroid and no luck. In the early 1960's I was in high school I built my Ringmasters, Veco Chief , Voodos ,a Pitts Little Stinker and a 6' Brekely CUB listening on a little red 5 tube radio to WLS and KOMA .
Last edited by Joe Fisher; 10-20-2016 at 11:47 AM.