glue for balsa models
#1
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glue for balsa models
What would be a good glue for balsa, Elmer's white glue, Elmer's Carpenter wood glue or contact cement by bazic. I am building a guillows rubber power flying model 500 series stuka.
#4
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I just built my first balsa "kit" model and I used thin CA. The parts were pretty small in some cases, and the glue worked great. I think medium CA would have worked better for some of the parts as well. Some of the balsa pieces sucked in the thin CA before I could get the parts connected and bound, so I had to use more. The medium viscosity would have been better, it's actually what I use on my foam planes. Good luck!
#5
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New guy i build all mine with Tight bond carpenters glue ,sure its slower than ca but its real hard to sand ca without taking half the balsa away while doing so. Tightbond will give you a strong joint and sand easy plus last forever . BTW its cheaper too! lol joe
Last edited by joebahl; 01-31-2016 at 07:08 AM.
#7
I use Duco or sigment on 36"span and under, depends on what is available. I would use ambroid , but can't find it here. I have used Deluxe products with good results. I just can't control ca like I used too.
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TiteBond makes a CA for wood. I've used it to build wood nitro powered race boats. They have held up very well racing & getting beat up by rough water at 60mph. It can be found at Lowes or Home Depot.
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I use all of the above in different places for different applications, but Sig has a new glue out called "Liquid Resin" that I am going to try. Tite Bond has been my go-to adhesive in the past, but lately I have been using a lot more medium CA for building. Still love the smell of Ambroid in the morning.
#11
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I use all of the above in different places for different applications, but Sig has a new glue out called "Liquid Resin" that I am going to try. Tite Bond has been my go-to adhesive in the past, but lately I have been using a lot more medium CA for building. Still love the smell of Ambroid in the morning.
#12
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Ambooid was fazing out when i got into the hobby and ca was the thing to use until i tried using tight bond carpenters glue . I was a carpenter for 30 years so its a good fit . Iam not affraid to try new glues tho and picked up building with foam a few years ago so i use white foaming Gorrila glue for my foam builds . joe
I've been tinkering more with foam and foamboard, I use FOAMTAC almost exclusively now. A bit on the pricey side but I love the flexibility (literally and figuratively)
#13
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Its a desighn from Germany and its called a slowly lol after flying it you can see why . Here are vidios and free plans . enjoy ! joe http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showt...0#post22098736
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Last edited by joebahl; 01-31-2016 at 03:36 PM.
#19
You build some beautiful models, and you are much younger than I imagined !
#21
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Second the vote on Aliphatic, water based carpenter glue. Franklin Titebond, buy it at any hardware home store. The secret is preglue as per below
My recommendation is to precoat the glue surfaces with a thinned coat first, let it dry, sand off the fuzz, hit it with a full strength coat and then adhere with some pins or clamping. I thin the precoat 50% with water, some thin with rubbing (isopropyl) alcohol. I'm convinced the thinned precoat sinks into the wood & really help the grab of the final coat. I use little paint brushes to apply glue. The joint strength rivals epoxy, its low cost & non-toxic. Its also lighter than epoxy & I think also lighter than CA. The Titebond precoat dries fairly quickly & seems to quicken the final assembly full coat dry time.
My oldest flyer is a Midwest TriSquire built in 1979 , that still flies as the day it was new. I used Pica Gluit whch was a quick dry version of these aliphatic type of glue but is no longer available.
My recommendation is to precoat the glue surfaces with a thinned coat first, let it dry, sand off the fuzz, hit it with a full strength coat and then adhere with some pins or clamping. I thin the precoat 50% with water, some thin with rubbing (isopropyl) alcohol. I'm convinced the thinned precoat sinks into the wood & really help the grab of the final coat. I use little paint brushes to apply glue. The joint strength rivals epoxy, its low cost & non-toxic. Its also lighter than epoxy & I think also lighter than CA. The Titebond precoat dries fairly quickly & seems to quicken the final assembly full coat dry time.
My oldest flyer is a Midwest TriSquire built in 1979 , that still flies as the day it was new. I used Pica Gluit whch was a quick dry version of these aliphatic type of glue but is no longer available.
#22