Illuminated Prop
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Illuminated Prop
Is it possible to get transparent propellers? I've had this cool idea for a night flyer to have a prop that glows as it flies.
The plan was to have 3 or 4 bright LEDs shining onto the hub of the prop from the motor side, and this should (via internal reflection) make the entire prop light up and cause a great effect. Using different colour combos for the LEDs would be ace too. Not sure about the battery situation though. Probably need to run them from a resistored PP3 (9v) batt.
(I'm new to RC flying so if this has already been invented - sorry)
The plan was to have 3 or 4 bright LEDs shining onto the hub of the prop from the motor side, and this should (via internal reflection) make the entire prop light up and cause a great effect. Using different colour combos for the LEDs would be ace too. Not sure about the battery situation though. Probably need to run them from a resistored PP3 (9v) batt.
(I'm new to RC flying so if this has already been invented - sorry)
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RE: Illuminated Prop
A good point, but that's easily solved. I don't think it would ruin the effect to have some paint flashes at the blade tips so the outline is visible on the ground.
Still viable?
Still viable?
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RE: Illuminated Prop
a prop can't be seen at night anyway, can if its lit up.. now wheres the danger?
heres what to do..
you know those kids toy balls you throw and they light up?
they have a centrifugal switch in them, so, put it in your spinner, swap their poor LED's for some super bright blues or reds which exit the spinner nose cone ( a few mm higher than the blade ) pointing at the blades.
When the engine fires the LED's light and shine along the blade length.
i've used the same kinda way of shining LED's to light entire parkflyer wings with just 2 LED's and this just came to me.
Try it, the whole unit should be able to fit within a 2.5" spinner cone with ease
alternatively cover the prop with the illumination paint used by fishermen for floats, a quick "charge" with a torch should give 5 mins decent glow, enough for lighter parflyers that can't use lights in the nose.
heres what to do..
you know those kids toy balls you throw and they light up?
they have a centrifugal switch in them, so, put it in your spinner, swap their poor LED's for some super bright blues or reds which exit the spinner nose cone ( a few mm higher than the blade ) pointing at the blades.
When the engine fires the LED's light and shine along the blade length.
i've used the same kinda way of shining LED's to light entire parkflyer wings with just 2 LED's and this just came to me.
Try it, the whole unit should be able to fit within a 2.5" spinner cone with ease
alternatively cover the prop with the illumination paint used by fishermen for floats, a quick "charge" with a torch should give 5 mins decent glow, enough for lighter parflyers that can't use lights in the nose.
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RE: Illuminated Prop
I think wossname may be thinking that a transparent prop would 'carry' the light...like fiber optics. Reflection is all you will get, so it doesn't really matter what color the prop is, as long as it is shiny/reflective.
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RE: Illuminated Prop
Thanks for the support guys
It would be dead sexy, if done tastefully.
On the safety front, all the manufacturers would have to do is stick a disclaimer on the packet warning of any potential dangers. Pilots are generally experienced enough to keep appendages clear of props, but there's always one isn't there?
I've done an illustration of the theory...
ORIGINAL: Geistware
I am still not understanding the benefit of a transparent propeller.
I am still not understanding the benefit of a transparent propeller.
On the safety front, all the manufacturers would have to do is stick a disclaimer on the packet warning of any potential dangers. Pilots are generally experienced enough to keep appendages clear of props, but there's always one isn't there?
I've done an illustration of the theory...
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RE: Illuminated Prop
props have a fibre system that keeps them strong, you wont get this with clear plastics.
your blades also wont be inline with your LEDs for very long unless you line the nose ring with them. and then your talking £ and lots of juice
i was talking to the guys today and they thought my idea would work great, they added some yo-yo's also have the same system that would activate the LED's once the engine is running. the whole system is self enclosed within the spinner as it runs from a couple of small watch batterys.
sometimes i think people can't see my replys. I just told you the cheapest, and easiest way of doing it, all you need is an extra spinner nose for when you want a bit of night time flying
your blades also wont be inline with your LEDs for very long unless you line the nose ring with them. and then your talking £ and lots of juice
i was talking to the guys today and they thought my idea would work great, they added some yo-yo's also have the same system that would activate the LED's once the engine is running. the whole system is self enclosed within the spinner as it runs from a couple of small watch batterys.
sometimes i think people can't see my replys. I just told you the cheapest, and easiest way of doing it, all you need is an extra spinner nose for when you want a bit of night time flying
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RE: Illuminated Prop
Have you considered glow in the dark paint?
As an aside, with one prop half illuminated with green and the other with red, you'll probably see yellow when the engine runs.
As an aside, with one prop half illuminated with green and the other with red, you'll probably see yellow when the engine runs.
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RE: Illuminated Prop
Have you considered glow in the dark paint?
one of us has, HELLO? IS THIS MIC ON?!!! TAP TAP TAP HELLO[&:]
if you do a quick search you'll find a company that does many luminescent colours and one of its advertised uses is RC planes. but then no-ones paying attention to me so find it ya selves
alternatively cover the prop with the illumination paint used by fishermen for floats, a quick "charge" with a torch should give 5 mins decent glow, enough for lighter parflyers that can't use lights in the nose.
if you do a quick search you'll find a company that does many luminescent colours and one of its advertised uses is RC planes. but then no-ones paying attention to me so find it ya selves
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RE: Illuminated Prop
I wasn't ignoring your idea, I was just illustrating mine.
Anyway would your yoyo components stand up to 10000+ rpm? The average yoyo probably only runs at about 200rmp peak (dodgy guestimate).
The thing about the Yoyo electrics, is that the RPM is constantly oscillating... Back - stop - forward - stop - back - stop......
With a prop, you only get... stop - forward - forward - forward...... so there will come a point very soon after engine startup where the yoyo's flywheel is stationary in relation to the prop's rotation and therefore not generating any electricity to power the LEDs. Unless your prop does some very violent spinups or spindowns, the yoyo trick won't work. That's how it occurs to me.
Does this sound reasonable?
Anyway would your yoyo components stand up to 10000+ rpm? The average yoyo probably only runs at about 200rmp peak (dodgy guestimate).
The thing about the Yoyo electrics, is that the RPM is constantly oscillating... Back - stop - forward - stop - back - stop......
With a prop, you only get... stop - forward - forward - forward...... so there will come a point very soon after engine startup where the yoyo's flywheel is stationary in relation to the prop's rotation and therefore not generating any electricity to power the LEDs. Unless your prop does some very violent spinups or spindowns, the yoyo trick won't work. That's how it occurs to me.
Does this sound reasonable?
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RE: Illuminated Prop
not really no
the yoyo works on a centralfugal switch as does the ball so as long as the prop remains moving the unit will stay switched on. they don't use a flywheel to generate the power as they have two 1.5V button cells.
you have a point about the RPMs but nothing that can't be over come, all it is is a chip, small board and the switch/batts. you can put the batts right in the cone tip making them central, mount the chip just below that with the two LED's poking out, then the switch.
if your that worried about the quality of their switch make your own. some sort of simple post and bendy bar should do the trick.
with all the componets as close to center as poss they dont face much force, i think any cheap yoyo will last longer at 10-12k over a polycarbonate or perspex prop.
having worked in a fiberoptic factory i can say with some confidence that LED's on the nose ring, pointing at the props hub won't be lighting up the prop.
we did light up perspex pannels as LCD backlights, our LED's glued directly to the side and wouldn't light much further than 2"
if you want to try the idea in rough get a super bright blue or red LED and tape it pointing at the prop, turn the lights out and see if the narrow beam ( about 20-30 degrees for most super brights ) is lighting the blade enough. if so go out and buy the rest of the bits.
These pics are my MicroJet with one UB blue and UB red wired in parallel ( they are 3v LED's so share the 4.8 from the RX ) pointing down on the sheet you can see the light pattern i am hoping will light your blade, as the LED is in the spinner theres no flicker and it's perfectly lined up at all times. Blue and red would of course make purple as the blade spins, but if you aim one LED out and one in you'd get blue fade to purple fade to red, very cool.
the yoyo works on a centralfugal switch as does the ball so as long as the prop remains moving the unit will stay switched on. they don't use a flywheel to generate the power as they have two 1.5V button cells.
you have a point about the RPMs but nothing that can't be over come, all it is is a chip, small board and the switch/batts. you can put the batts right in the cone tip making them central, mount the chip just below that with the two LED's poking out, then the switch.
if your that worried about the quality of their switch make your own. some sort of simple post and bendy bar should do the trick.
with all the componets as close to center as poss they dont face much force, i think any cheap yoyo will last longer at 10-12k over a polycarbonate or perspex prop.
having worked in a fiberoptic factory i can say with some confidence that LED's on the nose ring, pointing at the props hub won't be lighting up the prop.
we did light up perspex pannels as LCD backlights, our LED's glued directly to the side and wouldn't light much further than 2"
if you want to try the idea in rough get a super bright blue or red LED and tape it pointing at the prop, turn the lights out and see if the narrow beam ( about 20-30 degrees for most super brights ) is lighting the blade enough. if so go out and buy the rest of the bits.
These pics are my MicroJet with one UB blue and UB red wired in parallel ( they are 3v LED's so share the 4.8 from the RX ) pointing down on the sheet you can see the light pattern i am hoping will light your blade, as the LED is in the spinner theres no flicker and it's perfectly lined up at all times. Blue and red would of course make purple as the blade spins, but if you aim one LED out and one in you'd get blue fade to purple fade to red, very cool.
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RE: Illuminated Prop
Fair enough, I didn't know you could get battery powered yoyos. Mine was a dynamo based model from years ago.
I'm going to do some experiments though. If I make any progress I'll post here.
I'm going to do some experiments though. If I make any progress I'll post here.
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RE: Illuminated Prop
FYI there have been some clear props made. The OLD "Scamper" line of transparent orange plastic props, now are collectors items.
I have some 1/2A (6-3) semi transparent props that are fibreglass (continuous strand) with a clear epoxy resin. Thera are "ace" brand. How Old? I dont know but they look fairly modern.
If you used a good epoxy resin, that is water clear (like the West system designed for cedar strip canoes) the glass cloath all but dissapears in the resin, making a very transparent mass.
Make up a mold from an existing prop you have carved, and mold some up.
AJC
I have some 1/2A (6-3) semi transparent props that are fibreglass (continuous strand) with a clear epoxy resin. Thera are "ace" brand. How Old? I dont know but they look fairly modern.
If you used a good epoxy resin, that is water clear (like the West system designed for cedar strip canoes) the glass cloath all but dissapears in the resin, making a very transparent mass.
Make up a mold from an existing prop you have carved, and mold some up.
AJC