mikenlapaz

Looking for some ideas for a DIY method of securing models to start and test run engines. I recall an article from old magazine where the designer built an adjustable 'T' shaped portable rig that would work on ground or on a bench. The adjustments were for main wheel diameter and it adjusted lengthwise to provide tailwheel securement. Must have used wrong term as search was a failure.

RCKen

My Feedback: (9)

There's a much better system than that, and much cheaper. A tent stake and a 50¢ piece of rope. Put the stake in the ground, secure one end to the stake, wrap it up and around the tail of your plane, and secure the other end to the stake. This will hold back planes all the way up to the large 40% and larger birds.


Ken

beepee

Almost as cheap ... a "U" formed of 3/4" PVC pipe with an adapter "T" in the bottom center. The center connection of the "T" is threaded for 3/4" pipe. In that thread a 3/4 x 1/8 pipe bushing, then a 6" long 1/8" pipe nipple. The 1/8" pipe nipple will just take a 3/16" rod rammed into it so that a total 12" spike can be created. The "U" can be appropriately covered with pipe insulation.

This then becomes a stooge to hold back you aircraft by the horizontal stab. I have had mine for years. It is good for up to 20# of thrust. Cost me less than $5 and everything is readily available at the local hardware store.

Have fun!

Bedford

daveopam

My Feedback: (9)

I just drive a piece of rebar in front of the stab on each side.Slide a piece of pipe insulation and go. I had a friend get his arm cut up using one like the first described. At the field or in the yard it worked fine. One cold day he used it in the garage. The concrete did have the holding property of the grass. It slide at him and his two choices were. 1) let it hit him in the chest. 2) stick his arm out to catch the top wing. He caught the wing but the underside of his arm took a beating from the prop. PLEASE be careful what ever your method.

Sorry to sound like the safety police,

David

cyclops2

A lot of ARF's are not strong enough to be held by just the elevator section.

Make a longer loop and loop each side of the wing, then run the 2 ends OVER the elevator, then to the ringed spike in HARD ground.

Worst case is the elevator breaks and the tail lifts up and breaks a prop.

Don't bleed to death ALONE at the flying field.

mikenlapaz

I found the article and shot a few pics. Parts I like and others are not applicable as I have a variety of ground clearances , widths of landing gear varies from 22" down to 10" and tire diameter.

So far the comments have dealt with holding the plane to stop forward motion; I would like to incorporate something to hold / prevent backward motiion when using an electric starter as well. Just not comfortable trying to hold a plane and have an 12 -18" prop spinning inline with my body. I have all parts so far and plan on keeping things intact.
Construction has started on a stand out of 1" Sch 40 PVC. which hopefully will address movement in both directions and be portable.

50+AirYears

I just use a couple 14" scredrivers driven into the ground in front of the stabilizer leading edge.

bbbair

If you are looking for a more 'perminent' (=not really portable) bench to start your AC safely, a club in Long Island NY developed a startup bench a few years back that has had great reviews.

Here is the link;

http://www.meroke.com/beautification...ightbench.html

The plans are included, free for all to down load - they beleive that everyone should be able to start their AC safely.

the troll

Get three of my ugly buddies...have one at the half way point of the leading edge of each side of the wing and one to hold the tail. Zero cost but hard to look at.

ballgunner

My Feedback: (1)

Our club has some startup benches much the same as the MerokeRC club. We also have a tie down rope fastened to the aft end of the bench that's wrapped around the fuselage in front of the horizontal surfaces.

IBrakeForNobody

My Feedback: (16)

Well, I'm always with another person when I go to the flying field (we carpool) so we just hold eachother's aircraft. When we hold the aircraft, we go on our knees and left hand holds the left part of the wing (close to the center) and right hand holds the fuse. If its something like a .40, I just do what my instructor said like 2 1/2 years ago and pretend the prop is 20 feet in diameter, so reach over as far as you can and hold the front of the airplane with your fingertips. Then, to throttle test, idle the engine as slowly as possible (and keep the glow driver on) and head toward the back of the plane. Start at the nose, move quickly to a wing tip, then behind the wing. Our club has a paved taxiway, paved runway, and hard packed gravel parking, so there is no real way to drive a stake in the ground.

mikenlapaz

Did they ever consider just cutting some small holes in the asphalt and driving some 1/2" or 3/4" pipe down 16" or so and then members could just drop a stake in whenever they needed an anchor point? Pull is horizonal a metal stake in a close fitting hole should not come out.

Troll sounds good. Doing something similar now, problem is the time scheduling and the constant bickering about working conditions!

Flyboy Dave

My Feedback: (21)

I use a couple 1/2" steel spikes driven into the ground, with a piece of foam covered
pipe slipped over the spikes. The rubber pad keeps FOD out of the carb, and pain
out of my old knees.

FBD.

mikenlapaz

Discarded ski poles work for stopping the forward motion, a like the pad for the knees idea. Now to restraint to stop aft backward movement.

mikenlapaz

Portable Starter Testing Stand
Going to give this a try. It is fashioned from 1 1/4 and 1" Schedule 40 PVC. The rear section (1 1/4") is drilled for both 1/4 and 5/16" steel spikes. The spikes also serve to hold the cushioning foam. Installed some 'spike retainers" on end of work bench.
The forward sections (1") have some 90 degree wheel chocks screwed to front face. (Ended up making two front pieces only because the fences on SpaTens bipe prevented using one full length) The chocks are from 4" PVC fence post material. The two pieces are held in alignment with 1/4" thru bolt at various lengths.
2" Velcro strap serves as aft hold down.

Most of material was on-hand and requistioned for hobby use.

britbrat

How long did it take you to glue all of pieces that you cut out of the SPAD, back into pipe?

KW_Counter

Mike,
Nice job! Please post more pics.
I am real curious about how you hold the front and back pieces at the appropriate length?

Also, interested in the original article. What mag and issue was it in?
Also, could you scan it and post it? Looking for something more readable on the plans page.
I enjoy wood working very much so may go in that direction.

Thanks,
KW_Counter

mikenlapaz

KW_Counter Note in the pics of the Giles and Ultra Stick just forward of the black Velcro there is a bolt hole. Just adjusted each plane to fit and drilled a hole thru the inner sliding pipe.

No scanner. Blow up of photo shows RCM April 2004 Ken, check your email for wood project.

Gluing went quickly once I got the right curvature on the cutout! True SPAD construct as had to glue two rectanglar pieces together to get enough interior
volume.