Soldering Iron
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Soldering Iron
This is probably in the wrong place, so move it if needed.
I have been thinking about a new iron to replace my 18W antex, regualr iron. I use it a bit for circuits, and lots of Deans Ultra plugs and wiring (rc boats). Maplins has [link=http://www.maplin.co.uk/module.aspx?ModuleNo=219133&doy=23m10#overview]this[/link] iron at a great price. I think 48W would be useful, as I often solder large areas.
Any problems you can see with this iron?
What should you look for in a temperature controlled iron?
Thanks,
Andrew
I have been thinking about a new iron to replace my 18W antex, regualr iron. I use it a bit for circuits, and lots of Deans Ultra plugs and wiring (rc boats). Maplins has [link=http://www.maplin.co.uk/module.aspx?ModuleNo=219133&doy=23m10#overview]this[/link] iron at a great price. I think 48W would be useful, as I often solder large areas.
Any problems you can see with this iron?
What should you look for in a temperature controlled iron?
Thanks,
Andrew
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RE: Soldering Iron
I use a standard 25 watt iron. For larger jobs, I like the Weller 100/140 watt gun. I use the proper size solder for the job and make sure all joints are clean and mechanically sound before soldering. I believe in soldering hot and fast. That 40 watt iron should certainly do the trick for connectors.
Dr.1
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RE: Soldering Iron
I think that the temperature controlled iron you've selected would be great. I went to a temperature controlled Weller WTCP in the late 70's and will not use anything but a temperature controlled iron. I now have an electronically controlled model WESD51. Make sure what ever you buy has the tip is grounded.
For large projects like landing gear I use a small propane torch. Mine is a Weller butane powered soldering pencil that also converts to a torch. The key is not to overheat it and to have clean parts. Put the flame on then take it off and test with solder to see if it is hot enough. Repeat the cycle. Eventually you find out how long it takes to just melt the solder and flux. Don't go much above that temperature and make sure the joint is mechanically sound (wrapped with copper wire is one way) so it doesn't move until it is cool. If you heat the joint up till it is dull red you are way - way too hot and the solder will actually boil off the part!
John
For large projects like landing gear I use a small propane torch. Mine is a Weller butane powered soldering pencil that also converts to a torch. The key is not to overheat it and to have clean parts. Put the flame on then take it off and test with solder to see if it is hot enough. Repeat the cycle. Eventually you find out how long it takes to just melt the solder and flux. Don't go much above that temperature and make sure the joint is mechanically sound (wrapped with copper wire is one way) so it doesn't move until it is cool. If you heat the joint up till it is dull red you are way - way too hot and the solder will actually boil off the part!
John
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RE: Soldering Iron
Thanks for your advice.
I pursuaded my parents to buy that today.
Sadly, I won't 'recieve' it until Christmas.
I'll tell you what it's like then!
Andrew
I pursuaded my parents to buy that today.
Sadly, I won't 'recieve' it until Christmas.
I'll tell you what it's like then!
Andrew
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RE: Soldering Iron
John is right. Be SURE the joint is clean, grease free, and bright and shiny. If you're using solid core solder, use PLENTY of the right type of flux. Heat the joint JUST hot enough for the solder to flow.
Dr.1
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RE: Soldering Iron
ORIGINAL: cowana
Any problems you can see with this iron?
Any problems you can see with this iron?
For those of you reading that don't know the difference between a soldering iron and a temperature-controlled soldering station, I highly recommend you investigate. If you do any soldering at all, you will never go back to a soldering iron once you've used a soldering station. They are so cheap now there really isn't any reason not to switch.