The Clubhouse If it doesn't fit in any other category and is about general RC stuff then post it here at the Clubhouse.

Convert trike to tail dragger


Old 11-04-2002, 04:31 PM
Thread Starter
Join Date: Nov 2002
Location: CA
Posts: 32
My Gallery
My Models
My Feedback
Default Convert trike to tail dragger

I plan on buying a 60 size trainer (Global Right Flyer 60). I have had this model before and am pretty comfortable with it. However, I am tired of the nose wheel and want to change it to a tail dragger.

This should not be too big a deal, but I will accept any tips from anyone who has been there and done that.


jpf5911 is offline  
Reply With Quote
Old 11-04-2002, 05:33 PM
My Feedback: (3)
Join Date: May 2002
Location: Memphis, TN
Posts: 812
My Gallery
My Models
My Feedback
Default Convert trike to tail dragger

I'm not going to go into exact detail here, but I think it is clear enough.

OK. I did the same thing with the 25 sized one. Here is what I did:

You need to mount your main gear so that when the airplane is level, like when it is taking off, the axels are directly beneath the leading edge. This will make sure your plane doesn't try to bounce alot, and it will make sure it won't nose over.

Use some good quality aluminum landing gear with 3 or more bolts to hold it to the fuse. Make sure they are shear bolts. Shear bolts are nylon bolts that break if you have a hard landing rather than breaking the bottom of the fuse. You will need to put a plywood plate in the bottom of the fuse on the inside. Make it about 1/4 inch thick, and use some balsa triangle stock to help attach it to the plywood formers on the inside of the fuse. It needs to be as wide as the fuse is on the inside, and it needs to extent about 1/8 to 1/4 of an inch in front of and behind the main gear. If you can't make it that long because a former is in the way, don't worry about it. When you mount your gear, make sure the gear isn't turned to one side or the other, or mounted off center. The wing, or the rubber band dowels are a good reference point.

Now for the tail wheel. You need to check and see if you can use the regular setup of using a spring attached to the rudder to steer the tailwheel. Most trainers won't allow this since the elevator is in the way. If it won't, I'd use something like the Klett 60 sized tail wheel bracket. It comes with the tailwheel too. You need to make a 1/8th inch plywood plate that is as wide as the fuse is on the outside, and about 1/4 of an inch longer on both ends than the tailwheel bracket. You should mount the bracket so that the wheel it'self is directly below, or just a little bit forward of the rudder.

Now you have to decide if you want to use blind nuts, or wood screws. Blind nuts would work better, but it is more work.

Wood screws, you just cut the covering off in the same size and shape as the plate, and glue it on, then take a drill and drill some holes a little bit smaller than your wood screws. Then, screw your tailwheel bracket on.

For blind nuts, you need build your tailwheel bracket up by adding longer layers of plywood on the bottom of the one you have. You'll need to make it deep enough so that you can put the blind nuts in, and countersink them. You can sand the edges to make it a little bit nicer looking. When you glue it on, you'll need to put vasaline in the holes to make sure they dont get glue in them. Your screws also need to be short enough so that you don't go out the other side of the blind nut, but that you also have enough bite on them.

Now, glue your bracket on, and paint it with a paintbrush, or cover it to fuel proof it. Once this is done, run a pushrod to it to steer it.
jack01 is offline  
Reply With Quote

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off

Thread Tools
Search this Thread

Contact Us Archive Advertising Cookie Policy Privacy Statement Terms of Service