depfife

My Feedback: (14)

OK MinnFlyer, I have read your "How To" on CA hinges and decided to use them on my new Predator.

http://www.rcuniverse.com/reviews.ph...ew&reviewid=55

This may not sound like a big deal to the multitudes that are long time successful users, but it is a major deviation for me.

I belong to a group of hardcore nylon hinge users. Some of us use the glue and pin method and some only pin. I am not aware of any of us having a nylon hinge failure. I cannot say the same for our experiences with CA hinges. After three or four instances of the CA hinges pulling out or tearing we swore them off. If our difficulties were due to improper installation maybe MinnFlyers technique will remedy that. If it was poor quality hinges hopefully they have been improved over the past several years.

The Predator should be in the air by next weekend. I'll let everyone know how it goes.

Eric

Gene Chernosky

My Feedback: (182)

The MOST important thing to NEVER forget to do is to use a grease pencil on the area that will be flexing, both sides, so CA won't get there. Install the hinge with two pins in place along the grease pencil lines to keep it in the right place...glue it. After that you will have a LONG lasting hinge that is EASY to install.

BasinBum

My Feedback: (2)

Eric,
I have used CA hinges on two Predators and many other planes as well without ever having a failure. I completely agree with Minnflyers steps in his review.

Sorry Eugene, I disagree about the grease pencil method and think it might keep the CA from completely wicking into the hinge. Just use about five or six drops of fresh thin CA on each side let it cure for a while and then cycle the control surface until it moves freely.

Don't be pressured by others in your club that are still fighting new (if ten years old is new) methods.

depfife

My Feedback: (14)

I have read about using a grease pencil, but I do not understand how it would keep the CA out. The pencil mark would be on the surface of the hinge and it looks to me that the CA would wick under the mark. Of course what I know about CA hinges could be throughly chronicled in a short paragraph.

On the other hand it may keep some CA off the area that flexes and it certainly would not hurt anything. If I can find a grease pencil in my messy shop I may give it a try. Thanks for the info.

Eric

depfife

My Feedback: (14)

See what I mean about not knowing much about CA hinges.

Maybe the grease would hurt.

At least now, no matter whether or not I use the grease pencil, I have someone to blame if the hinge fails.

Eric

RCKen

My Feedback: (9)

I use CA hinges and then I seal the gap with monokote (sealing both sides of gap). Between the two materials being used as a hinge I've never had a failure. My Sig Somethin Extra has hinges done in this manner and there is almost 150 flights on this plane right now, and hinges work and hold as well as the day I built the plane

ilikeplanes

I used to be a devout CA hinge user. I've probably installed 100 hinges in 5 airplanes. My Ultimate has 26 of them. However, I just had one break on a rudder on a Sukhoi with about 100 flights on it. Once I remover and replaced all the CA hinges with plain old Du-Bro hinges, I forgot why I ever used CA hinges in the first place. Both types of hinges take proper technique. CA hinges are faster but not easier to install. In my opinion, CA hinges have to be absolutely perfectly installed to have long life. The problem is, there is no way of knowing if you did it right or wrong. With nylon or hinge points, you know for sure that the hinge will work and stay together for a long time by simply pulling and articulating the control surface.

BTW, I have always used MinnFlyers technique. It works most of the time. The problem is when you accidentally dribble one drop too much CA. Once you start, you're committed to the entire job. Adjustments or corrections are not possible.

turbines

My Feedback: (9)

One good tip to use is when installing the hinges make sure you stick a T-pin in the very center of the hinge. This will keep the hinge from going further than it needs to when you push it into the first part either the control surface of the rudder for example. There will be an equal amount of hinge on each side of the hinge line. You can pull the pins out either just before applying the thin CA or after you have applied it. Good insurance!

Crash_N_Burn

I use CA hinges exclusively, but only great Planes 2" x 9" Ultra-Grip sheets. (GPMQ3960)

They have to be cut to size (so you can cut them a little larger).

Never, ever had a problem with these.

(And, yes, I put a Crayon mark at the hinge line so if there is any excess CA, it will puddle on the line but can be wiped off before it drys. Dried CA crystals on the hinge line is what used to cut my hinges before I figured it out).

MinnFlyer

My Feedback: (4)

I think the grease pencil or crayon thing is a personal preference. As I said in the article, I don't do it. I agree with Eric that the CA can still wick under the line, and I think it could also act as a seal to keep the CA out of the wood.

But if you're comfortable doing it, or you believe it works better that way, by all means, have at it.

SMALLFLY-

My Feedback: (19)

The only hinge that has ever broken on me is a dubro pinned hinge. I use the radio south blue hinges and ohio superstar giant scale ca hinges only. Never had a failure on fun flys up to 80" gasser. Just make sure you get enough thin ca on the hinge and keep a bottle of acetone and a clean rag close in case it runs. I would strongly suggest the GP slot machine with the red guide. It makes slotting very easy

sideshow

My Feedback: (11)

I second the slot machine. Perfect, clean and easy. I have a lot more confidence that the CA with hold onto the wood around the slots made with the SM since the cuts are so clean and uniform in size.

BTW...get the corded one! I have the cordless and It starts to slow down before I can finish an airplane.

retiredwillie

Hi Guys! I'm getting back into to RC after some 30 years. I plan to use the CA type hinges where feasible. I was going to drill holes thru both surfaces where the hinges will be inserted just like I used to do when "pinning" hinges back when. The CA would be applied thru the holes which gets the CA into more of the hinge area. The holes can be covered with small pieces of whatever film covering you use.

Is there a problem with doing this?

SMALLFLY-

My Feedback: (19)

Completely unnecessary. The design of the ca hinge wicks the thin ca back into the hinge. Some people drill small holes thru the center of the slot to help with the wicking action, but It has never been a problem for me. I use a hot soldering iron and melt away the covering over the slot. That helps keep the covering from stoping the ca penetration

MinnFlyer

My Feedback: (4)

retiredwillie,

Click on the link in the first post in this thread for a step by step proceedure for CA Hinges.

Big Sasquatch

Any tips on how to prevent the CA from getting onto the wing while applying? Seems like I always drip onto the covering below the hinge, if I mask with tape it just gets glued onto the wing by the CA.....Arghhhh! I can never use more than 3 or 4 drops, it will over flow like I said above or it will attack the covering from the inside (had that happen with ultracoat) if 5 or 6 drops are applied to each side of a hinge.

Crash_N_Burn

Rub a candle over the area and keep a towel w/alcohol ready. It will ride on top of the wax so you can wipe it off.

BasinBum

My Feedback: (2)

Cut back the covering around the slot so as not to have the mono touching the hinge. That will allow the excess CA to wick into the wood instead of running off onto the covering.

Dab up any excess CA from the covering and then clean it with debonder or acetone.