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  1. #1
    taildragger101's Avatar
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    Hardwood glue,Whats you`r choice?

    Looking for best hardwood glue. Need something that will penetrate and not tear off the surface.

  2. #2

    RE: Hardwood glue,Whats you`r choice?

    I use "TITEBOND waterproof" glue! But the key to a good joint is clean surfaces that have been keyed; roughened, with 180 grit sandpaper. Use lots of pressure; clamp well, so that all excess glue is squeezed out. A joint with a bunch of glue between surfaces is in trouble as this joint will fail in the glue it's self to start with!
    Kits: F11C-2 1:4, Do-24T 1:8, P-3 1:10, Howard 500 1:5, XFY-1 1:4, SR-9 1:4, V-22 1:6, B-25J 1:4, F+W C3603 1:5, B314 1:11, DHC-4 1:10

  3. #3
    taildragger101's Avatar
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    RE: Hardwood glue,Whats you`r choice?

    Someone said to try polyvinyl acetate, Isn't this just white glue?

  4. #4

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    RE: Hardwood glue,Whats you`r choice?

    yup,....
    "PVA" is the basis for just about all of the commonly seen "woodglues" like, elmer, titebond , craft glues,etc. the yellow colored glues are the same PVA with some sort of accellorator added that gives them the yellow color.
    years ago, i worked in a small cabinet shop and we got our glue in 35 gallon drums. a drum ofplain old white PVAthat camewith a smaller drum of accellorator that had a pumpon top to mix your own brew. fill a gallon jug with the white glue and add a few pumps of the yellow stuff till you had the color you wanted, the yellower the glue, the fasterit set.. it was real conveinient to be able to mix a curing speed for the job at hand. hardly any yellow stuff for putting raised panel doors or drawers together and a bunch of yellow stuff for panels and edge banding and other simple stuff. i don't recall what the accelorater was, but it was an amber colored syrup we called "yellow stuff". i'm not sure if the amber accelleratingadditive also enhances the water proof feature of PVA as well, but our tests showed that there was very little difference in joint strength between properly glued frame and panel doors of similar jointdesign,done with glue that hadaccellerator in it vrs. glue without accellerator. the strength of the joint had more to do withthe way it was clamped,how long it was clamped up and of course, design of the joint. both glues werestronger than the wood itself.
    by the way,.... none of the yellow glues are truely "waterproof"...tiebond included, if you want that use epoxy. it has been proven time and time agian by people in the woodenboat building industry. they have all but given up on it and gone to epoxy for any joint that even might get wet ocassionally. the trick is to first coat the joint with some unthickened epoxy to be the bondingagentand then apply the thickened stuff to fill the small voids.
    for yellow glues, i myself prefer "Elmers pro-bond" i think it tacks up better than tite bond.

  5. #5
    taildragger101's Avatar
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    RE: Hardwood glue,Whats you`r choice?

    Thanx for the info Ron Ward. It was most helpfull.

  6. #6

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    RE: Hardwood glue,Whats you`r choice?

    30 minute epoxy will be stronger than the wood, but I would say Mythacrylate and/or Hysol is stronger (and far more expensive).

    Nothing scientific, just my tests.

    The preparation / fit of the joint is more important than the glue. I've also had very good sucess with Gorilla Glue, but I've heard others say that is not the best for Ply, and it is kinda messy.
    Dave Norman
    29w

  7. #7

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    RE: Hardwood glue,Whats you`r choice?

    Use the slowest setting epoxy you can find. I used to use 3 hour epoxy, but have not been able to find any lately. 45 minute is the best I can find now. The general idea is that the slower the glue sets, the longer it stays liquid. This gives the glue a longer time to soak deeper into the fibers of the wood. This makes the bond stronger than the wood itself. I like to use about 25-30% microbaloons to save a litle weight.
    Revver Brother #260

  8. #8

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    RE: Hardwood glue,Whats you`r choice?

    I am a long time cabinet maker. The newer Titebonds named Titebond 2 and Titebond 3 are much better than the stock Titebond when it comes to water resistance. My old company replaced the old school powdered glue for exterior doors with Titebond 3 mostly cause the old school powdered glue would give us problems in the winter cold. It would look like it cured, but would be very low on strength. T-3 did not have this problem, it just dried slow in low temps. One smart ass foreman I worked for had us use T-3 on a very large office paneling project than was prefinished with a catalyzed urethane finish. T-3 cleans up with water before it dries, but we couldn't find anything to clean up drips or smudges after it dried. Finally I brought in some 100% nitromethane and that slowly cleaned some problem areas up. Luckily the finish was hitech and was unaffected by the nitro. T-3 was way overkill and T-1 would have worked just fine without the hassles., if the product would have gotten wet it would be ruined anyway. All Titebonds are great glues, but when it comes to modeling I still prefer epoxies. Having no water eliminates some possible problems with warping and pulling later.A slightly rubbery epoxy is great for building structures, a hard rigid epoxy I like for laminating sheets. Gorilla glue is different and unique!! It usually foams as it cures, so it may be hard to finish over without filling. It's very waterproof, but it also stains your skin. It hasn't found much of a place on my workbench, maybe because I don't do balsa covered foam wings.
    Rudy


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