dbsonic

My Feedback: (3)

Great thread. Does the Dupont Chroma use isocyanates in the activator? If not it could be a good solution.

I just recently tried the PPG Omni AU single stage w/o hardnener and I like it also. Its solvent based and requires a reducer. I shot it over a white Rustoleum Primer that had to dry for several days which was a drawback making the whole painting process take a long time. I'd like to hit it with a clear as well but I dont think they make a single stage clear.?

The klass kote stuff looks interesting. Some nice examples pictured above.

sensei

I can't answer that but to be very honest I have never even considered that, but am sure you can find that information in the MSDS sheet of the activator. What I can tell you is besides using this material on my R/C Toys LOL, I have also used this material on the ten's of thousands of aerospace composite product that I have been manufacturing for the last nearly 30 years. The fact is I have written the complete use of this material into two separate companies process specifications. Fiber Art Inc. and Jeff Bonner R&D Inc.

Bob

Jeff Foley

My Feedback: (45)

I would stay away from anything in a rattle can.....especially for primer. I use automotive primer (nason 421-08) and keep a large, low cost gun with primer in it all the time. It never gets cleaned.....well almost never. Just stir it up and shoot....dries enough to sand in 20-30 minutes and I probably thin it 2 parts thinner to one part primer. The two part primers are great, I do use them from time to time...but I just don't like waiting several hours to sand. I have used both KK and K&B over this primer for years and never have adhesion problems. The 109 below was painted with this method. I was using satin catalyst however and rarely do anything glossy.

blove3

My Feedback: (1)

I have used KK products for a while now and had no issues at all until recently. I just used thier clear coat for the first time and encountered a significant issue - see the attached photo. The photo is 24 hours after application and you can see the difference between where the clear coat is and is not - the clear coat left the white areas almost beige! Several hours after application I wiped down the adjacent area (removing the clear coat but no the base coat) with reducer to see just how discoloued it was. I have a call into KK to see if they have any answers.

Bruce

Jeff Foley

My Feedback: (45)

I haven't used KK clear....but the old K&B clear would do the same thing. It had a definate yellow tint to it that got worse with age.

scale dail

My Feedback: (8)

Clearcoating is a dangerous thing on white. I use KlassKote all the time. The clear does have a slight beige to it. It took the shine away from the FliteMetal too.

sensei

Not if you use the real deal...

Bob

MTK

Catalyst part B is amine based (as many epoxy systems are) and definitely has a shelf life or expiration date if you will. If you want a very clean and transparent end result, the catalyst needs to be as fresh as possible with no yellowing. BUT even with a beautiful fresh and clean clearcoat, the UV sensitivity of the catalyst will yellow a bit with time and sun exposure. The better clearcoats are polyurethane based, such as Concept, Imron and Omni and a bunch of other lesser known brands. These don't yellow with time. A big caveat is isocyanate off gassing during the spraying and curing which is very bad for you.

Use old catalyst to catalyse dark colors or even primer; light colors will be affected visibly

To the guys that have had issues spraying KK, did you folks allow the 1/2-1 hour incubation period after mixing the two components? Don't mix the thinner until after this incubation step and also don't worry about pot life; you've got a couple days. I've found that the factory requirement for this incubation step is there with good reason. The paint simply flows out much better and cures better.

wyowindworks

You have to sit on it for an hour?

sensei

Actually it is referred to as "Chemical Induction Time" what that means in laymen terms is as follows: An induction time period in chemical kinetics is an initial slow stage of a chemical reaction; after the induction period, the reaction accelerates. Many finishing systems have induction times prior to spraying for this very reason.

Bob

MTK

Windyworks,

No I don't sit on the paint at least not on purpose. I ruin enough clothes on my own justfrom drips of the various materials around the shop. (LOL, just poking fun, I know what you meant)

A waiting period for KK after mixing (sans thinner) is a good idea. They say theonly one that doesn't need it is the primer, and in practice, I've found that to be true.

Of course, as you know, other epoxy systems, (glues and lamination materials), don't need this incubation time. With them, it's a clock race