1) The models I will be building will generally be sport types and havequite adeep aerofiles so I will use the joggled gasket joint to the fuse and the leading and trailing edges on the wings, my question is on the control surfaces wherethe jointswill bealot smallerwith acute angles, as recommended I would use the Bog seem joint but would this joint be sufficient to fit say robart pin hinges into or would I have to put in some wood blocks to fix the hinges to. The reason I ask is because looking at Wyowindworks wing section, and is a great joint for that type of wingbut it looks like theremay not be anything significant or consistant to fit say a25mm pin through. This would be highlighted in the instance of the control surface leading edges where the is usually a double chamfer to allow for clearanceand movement up and down or side to side. What do you think?
Most people use kevlar to make the hinge. This create a a continious hinge and seal. Here is a really old video that I did that shows how a kevlar hinge is made: https://vimeo.com/2368007
Just jump ahead to minute 18:00 to see how to cut the hinge free. Although this hinge in the video isn't for a control surface the technique still applies.
2) I am planning on fabricating composite "I beam" type ribs to accept and support the wing tubes and using foam infill between the ribs to support the composite wing sheet, do you think this is a good idea or would it be best to just use these ribs without any need for foam. Would a set of composite ribs be lighter that ribs and foam? What do you think?
Most people just tie the joiner receiver into the shear web of the spar. This way the force is directy tied to the spar rather than the wing skin.
3) When using the bog and joggle methods of jointing in the mold, It has been mention by Wyowindworks to wait til the layup gels and then trim away the excess material and then carry out the joint procedure, my question is do I polish the mold flanges and if any adhesive oozes out of the joint when the mold is clamped shut do I trim this off after parting the mold of should there not be any adhesive leaking out of the joint.
Typically the wings are vacuumed bagged into the mold with peel-ply. This isn't necessary if you are just using a composite laminate for the skin, but if you are creating a sandwhich structure (lighter, stiffer, and stronger) then vacuum will be required. The peel-ply leaves a nice bonding surface for the bog.
A polished mold flange makes for a better release and the mold clean-up goes much better between mold cycles.
You will have some bog squeeze out between the flanges. This "flashing" gets trimmed off the parts after they are demolded.
Here is a great video showing the process for a molded wing: https://vimeo.com/1737393