Cheek Cowls
03-22-2005, 12:18 AM
#1
Thread Starter
My Feedback: (2)
Join Date: Apr 2003
Location: Henderson, NV
Posts: 101
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Cheek Cowls
I am about to glue some cheek cowls on the side of my cowling. The cheeks are fiberglass as well as the fuse. I will initially glue the cheeks on with epoxy or CA.
What material would be the best to create that smooth fillet look around the cheek cowl making them seem to flow right out of the side of the plane? Of course, epoxy would work, but I would imagine that it would be hard to sand smooth and pretty messy also. Any ideas? Thanks, Kevin
What material would be the best to create that smooth fillet look around the cheek cowl making them seem to flow right out of the side of the plane? Of course, epoxy would work, but I would imagine that it would be hard to sand smooth and pretty messy also. Any ideas? Thanks, Kevin
03-22-2005, 01:05 AM
#2
Senior Member
My Feedback: (13)
Join Date: Mar 2002
Location: Osborn, MO
Posts: 648
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
RE: Cheek Cowls
Tack the cheek cowls in place with dots of thick CA then follow up with a mixture of epoxy and microballoons...add microballoons until you get a thick paste. Use a slow set or laminating epoxy. Apply the paste all the way around. You can smooth out the paste with a gloved hand...if the paste sticks to the glove then dip your finger in alcohol.
-Tom
-Tom
03-22-2005, 01:07 AM
#3
Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2002
Location: Anchorage,
AK
Posts: 2,565
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
RE: Cheek Cowls
Well, you want to use something hard, like epoxy and micro balloons, to make it last, and to be resistant to fuel. the trick, as you said, is to avoid a lot of sanding. So... First, I would rough up the actual hidden surfaces that mate, epoxy that, and let it cure. Don't try and do the fillet at that time.
Once it's cured, put a few strips of masking tape just outside the area to be filleted.
Then, I'd mix the goop of choice (mine would be an epoxy/microballoons mixture, thickened to something like whipped cream.) and apply it around the area to be filleted with a gloved finger, and/or a good filleting tool. There is a nice set of these at http://www.freemansupply.com/FilletShapers.htm for only a little over $20. Carefully wipe off excess goop with a paper towel, and around small areas using a Q-tip, pull the masking tape off, and walk away.
Later, come back and do the small amount of sanding requird, with 200 to 400 wet sandpaper, then prime/paint as you like.
Once it's cured, put a few strips of masking tape just outside the area to be filleted.
Then, I'd mix the goop of choice (mine would be an epoxy/microballoons mixture, thickened to something like whipped cream.) and apply it around the area to be filleted with a gloved finger, and/or a good filleting tool. There is a nice set of these at http://www.freemansupply.com/FilletShapers.htm for only a little over $20. Carefully wipe off excess goop with a paper towel, and around small areas using a Q-tip, pull the masking tape off, and walk away.
Later, come back and do the small amount of sanding requird, with 200 to 400 wet sandpaper, then prime/paint as you like.
03-22-2005, 11:12 PM
#7
Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2002
Location: Anchorage,
AK
Posts: 2,565
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
RE: Cheek Cowls
Wet sanding is good for anything that won't be damaged by water. (as long as it's cured)
It's especially nice with all these composite finishes, as it keeps some of the dust out of your face.
It's especially nice with all these composite finishes, as it keeps some of the dust out of your face.
