timrob

Hi,

What, if any, are the reasons behind using automotive filler and then glazing putty on top of filler when making repairs or getting a surface ready to paint? I usually only use the filler, but have seen some use glazing putty as well?

Tim

pmw

My Feedback: (1)

Tim,

The glazing putty is to fill very small imperfections in the filler putty.  The filler putty is almost impossible to smooth to a flawless surface.  The glazing putty will bring the surface to a perfect, uniform surface ready for primer.  I've used glazing putty with good results on Bondo as well as epoxy.

pmw

timrob

Thanks for your reply PMW.

I wondered about the filler, but I just kept adding more, and sanding until I get a smooth surface. What brand(s) do you prefer? This should make things go a little faster!

Tim

dhal22

i use Evercoat Rage, any of their lightweight fillers work well.  i buy mine at a sherwin williams automotive paint store.

timrob

Thanks David,

And what is a good glazing putty? Perhaps some Aussies could help too with a brand we can get here?

Tim

tasesq

I second that notion!

If someone can tell me what the Australian equivilent of Bondo is it would be much apprecaited! (or the ingredients even and i'll go read the fine print at the local Bunnings!)

yojoelay

Bondo translation:

Mate - head down to Supercheap and get yourself some bog (body filler).

Cheers,

Joel

Avaiojet

I don't understand the use of "bondo" or body filler in model airplanes?

I've always used microballoons and polyester resin. Lighter and stronger.

Charles

timrob

Hi Joel,

What about glazing putty? What brand is good for our usage?

Charles,

Is the polyester resin compatible with the fuselages etc. made out of epoxy resin? Mostly polyester resin has trouble bonding to epoxy. Also, does the combination of polyester resin and microballoons sand easily. I think the use of bondo (or bog in Australia) is mainly due to the sandable qualities.

Tim

Avaiojet

Epoxy creates issues with repairs or with other materials bonding including polyester resins. I have a feeling you know this already?

I don't like Epoxy and I believe I stand really alone on this issue. About as alone as one could be. My comments about Epoxy don't sit well with glass users. They love Epoxy.

Polyester resins and microballoons sand really easily, depending on the mix.

You can mix microballons with anything.

I use polyester laminating resinwith cloth on any model I elect to paint. Works for me. I read about guys that have success using Epoxy.

Different strokes for different folks.

This model was finished in polyester resin and cloth. Board sanded then primed. Board sanded then primed again. Painted with Dupont auto paint. Hand painted and applied 23K gold leaf. Outlined and shadowed lettering using One Shot enamel paint. Other detail with Brushing laquers. Auto clear coat, two part.

Took best finish award at the WRAM show somewhere in the 80's. I've been doing this a long time.

Charles

timrob

HiCharles,

Thanks for your reply.

The reason I asked about your success with polyester resin bonding to epoxy was my new purchase (a Yellow F-16) has an epoxy fuse etc. I have only heard that polyester and epoxy doesn't mix, that's why I asked if you had any experience with it. I have only used epoxy, mainly due to the opinions I have read on here, but I must say, I quite like West System epoxy resin, and have used it successfully making molds etc. I have never used polyester resin myself, so I am interested in your experience with this.

I must say that the detailing work and gold leaf on your photo looks superb. I love gold leaf work, good old school! Your attention to detail must be commended. I obviously can't fault your method, but it seems that as many people on RCU, there are as many methods, that's what makes reading other people's methods great. You can mix and match, and use what works best for you.

Thanks again for your information.

Tim

yojoelay

timrob,

Sorry, I don't know.  I was just passing through this morning and knew what bondo was from a Canadian youth wasted on rusty old vehicles from the salted roads.  Moving to Australia and finding out that you couldn't get a rusty vehicle through rego was a major culture shock - where I'm from, none of the vehicles would have passed rego, even the newer ones!

As for glazing putty - try Supercheap or pass by your local smash repairer and ask what he uses.  Or - follow Avaiojet's advice, you can't argue with that kind of success.

Phil Cole

Glazing putty would the same stuff as spot putty. It comes in a tube or a tin, and is like very thick paint. It should be near the bog in your favourite car paint shop.

I don't know why it's called glazing putty over here since it's not related in anyway to installing windows in your house.

My misspent youth bogging over rust to get rust buckets through rego has proved useful in model finishing. I generally don't bog planes due to the weight, no because I can't make it stick.

mark_d

The only thing I use it for is making molds or making bucks for fan ducts. I have heard it would not work over epoxy but I have used it of the west system several times and haven't seen an issue yet.

JKEpps

My Feedback: (1)

Speaking from personal experience, not a lot, but some, I'd recommend the two-part glazing/spot putties if they are polyesther. The ones that are used straight out of the tube usually shrink after applying and using it. Sometimes in as short as 24 hours. The two-part ones (with small tube of hardener) I've used don't shrink, or at least I've never noticed them to shrink.

Hope that helps.

BBW Walt

My Feedback: (11)

This stuff works well over polyesterglass or epoxy glass, just ruff the surface up with 80 grit to add cling. I use the glaze coat blending putty for shaping in areas like seams and such to the primering stage. It feathers out fairly well. Any imperfections I see after primered in I use the spot putty for small imperfections and reprimer over this till its ready. Walt