tasesq

Hi All,

Here is the situation - i have a surface of 1.5mm balsa, glassed with 0.75oz cloth. 100% of the aircraft has had the cloth applied using ZPoxy Finishing resin, and squeegied off etc etc.

I decided to start the finishing of the rudder and one aileron to get me started (trial and error!). Part of this process saw me use a lacquer high solids auto primer in a rattle can, to help fill the weave of the cloth.

I have two questions for the learned masses:

1. I have decided to use Nelson's hobby paints to prime and paint the model, however they are not compatible with Lacquer based primers. I have sanded off almost all of the primer that i added with the exception of some left within the weave of the cloth. Do those users of Nelson's paints, feel that the paint would stick ok with this small amount of lacquer based primer on there? You can see what i mean in photo 2, inside the green lines.

2. I have had an AWFUL [:@] time so far with sanding through the cloth by accident - as you can see with the red lines on photo 2. Can anyone suggest a technique to make the sanding easier? (i have been sanding wet). Also - can anyone suggest a technique to repair the sanded through cloth?[sm=confused.gif]

I have been sanding wet with 360.

My thoughts for the rest of the bare (only cloth applied) model are?
1. Prime the raw fibreglass with Nelson's Primer
2. Apply a flow coat of un-thinned ZPoxy finishing resin to fill the weave
3. Sand, but don't sand off the primer.
4. Prime with Nelson's primer again / sand lightly / detail / paint etc.


My thoughts for the buggered up rudder and single aileron!!!
1. Sand off as much of the lacquer primer as i can.
2. Using a brush, brush on thinned ZPoxy to the surface to fix the raw balsa where i sanded through the cloth and also to provide a coating to help the nelson's hobby primer stick
3. Sand gently, and hope i don't go through the cloth again!!!
4. Prime with Nelson's primer again / sand lightly / detail / paint etc.

I appreciate everyone's help - it is a challenge learning a new skill and a lot of fun also! my aim is to have her flying for the Aus summer in a few months.

Thanks

dreadnaut

My Feedback: (5)

The only advise I can give is that when sanding, be gentle, go slow, wipe and inspect often, repeat It may sound tedious, but remember, the fastest way to do any job involves only doing it once. That said, re-glass the bare spots w/z-poxy, then see step 1. If there is a compatibility issue with lacquer and the Nelson paint you may have to strip the whole thing and start over.

I am very interested in the Nelson Paints and am eager to hear others input.

daven

My Feedback: (1)

I was very interested in Nelson paints also, and gave them a whirl a few years ago. They can be tricky in determining first how much to reduce (with water) and then getting proper pressure through the gun without giving an orange peal like finish. Ended up throwing it all away.

After many failures and re-do's, I finally went to a coating that was not as costic or costly as auto paint and been happy ever since.

dhal22

i would reglass the area where you sanded through, then go back with the epoxy.

dreadnaut

My Feedback: (5)

Are you talking about Klass coat? I thought that was an automotive paint. If it is true that it is less toxic and noxious than the PPG, AND, gives good results, I may have to try it. I'll probably give the Nelson a go to since the cost is pretty low

lfinney

My Feedback: (44)

klass coat is the former epoxy paint sold by the K&B company, auto paints are urethane with isocyanate catylst, and are much more toxic, compared to epoxy, both are excellent products0

tasesq

Hi All,

Thanks for your replies.

My choice for Nelson hobby paints was mostly because the other brands which seemed popular (read KlassKote) are great if you are a US citizen, but the shipping costs for dangerous goods are just a killer for the product to get to Australia.

Whereas, Nelson paints can be sent through the USPS very cheaply, and quickly. This week Jerry sent me a sample for free [sm=thumbs_up.gif], and all i had to pay was postage. Cost around $7-8 and I got it in my mailbox within a week. You can't complain about that - and i was also drawn to the cleanup and thinning with water - what does a home hobbyist do with a bucket of thinner once he was cleaned out his gun after painting a whole aircraft? [sm=confused.gif]It can be expensive to dispose of in the correct manner...

So all in all, so far, without having tested his paints yet, i am satisfied with the service at any rate. One question though that was not clear in this documentation: Does anyone know the correct mixing ratio for his epoxy primer?

Dhal22: Do you mean to apply some more glass cloth over the bare areas, or just use the epoxy straight on the surface of the wood? In this application the glass does not add any strength to the structure, it's only there as a substrate to paint on - i would be worried with extra cloth that i would have troubles feathering it into the surrounding structure again (given the sanded through part was probably a high spot).

I appreciate everyone's help with this - i know it seems a basic question, but i thought i would seek some advice before 'learning from my mistakes' - AGAIN! [:@]