_Tommy D

My Feedback: (20)

I'm looking to refinish a new ARF. The fuse is red, and monokote covered. It has a lot of complex curves. As much as I enjoy covering I don't think I want to try this one.

My first thought was to rough up the covering and paint it. While that would work well on an electric, this model is glow powered.

I have worked with Minwax Poly <Water Based> on foam a lot. Works great, makes a rock hard surface, but would it be fuel proof?

Was hoping I could

1 Remove covering.

2 Apply .50 glass cloth with WBPU <Water Based Poly>

3 Paint with Top Flight LusterKote

4 Top coat with Clear Top Flight Lusterkote

Thanks!

dhal22

as long as the clear coat is fuel proof.

790

No need to roughen up. Simply clean the monokote with alcohol and tack cloth then paint the colors with Top Flight LusterKote as per instructions. It will come out nice and a clear coat is not needed. Its fuel proof. Using 1 light tack coat and 1 main coat will not add too much weight. The glass route will take considerable time effort and expense and in the end will be heavier and depending on your skill and determination may not look any better. Whichever way ya go let us know how it went.

_Tommy D

My Feedback: (20)

Thanks guys.

It's a Pheonix brand ARF, so perhaps it's really "china kote". Ill work the covering with an iron and see if it will stick pretty well.

The TF Lusterkote should be top coated with there clear or not?

I'm trying to shoot white over red <ewww> so scratches will look nasty!

Tommy D

790

If ya can post a pic of the plane and a design for the colors. You may also consider using the TF white primer. Clear coat is optional. The primer/base/clear paints are all fuel proof and a lot cheaper than automotive stuff or KlassKote. Try making some test samples of paint over film and cloth/poly methods to help decide on the finish your looking for. If you peel the film, then use 2 coats sanding sealer then cloth/poly on the wood. Filling the weave will take 3-5 coats then 2 coats primer - all sanding after each coat. At that point KlassKote is a good option or even the more expensive paints with a clear coat. Lotta work an expense if ya crash a lot hehe. The easy way with decent results is to just paint over the film and spend more time flying IMHO. Below is a link to the TF painting tips for LustreKote.

[link=http://www.monokote.com/lustrekote/painting-tips/topr7200tip1.html]http://www.monokote.com/lustrekote/painting-tips/topr7200tip1.html[/link]

warbirdcolors

My Feedback: (5)

WarbirdColors is a one-part, Water-based, acrylic polyurethane. It's fuel-proof, gas-proof, foam-safe, dries like a rock, sticks to anything, and the colors are correct.

_Tommy D

My Feedback: (20)

Sure.... that's Easy. The Fuse is currently all Red. I want it all white. Looking to do a T-Bird type scheme so the majority of the fuse must be white.

The wing Ill strip, and recover as thats the easy part.

Tommy D

790

Ah sweet looking plane. Should be a lotta fun to fly and an eye catcher at the field. I think the t-bird scheme is a good choice. You'll find similar examples of it searching here for Sig Kouger and King Kobra etc. The model doesn't look all that formidable to using iron on film. I think it could be done typically covering the bottom then the sides then the top. Then using colored film or trim sheets or else paint to finish it. Maybe start a new thread in another forum to get help with that. Since your already gonna cover the wings white - might as well give it a shot. Not sure what is the current best film; Monokote/Econokote/Ultrakote etc. You can always go with the poly/glass route if not good. Also consider epoxy/glass vs poly. This is an interesting project. I hope ya take pics along the way and post em.

Here"s a link to pics of the Thunderbirds T-38 Talon which resembles your plane:
[link=http://aerobaticteams.net/Thunderbirds_T-38_Talon.html]http://aerobaticteams.net/Thunderbirds_T-38_Talon.html[/link]