Fibreglassing over Balsa
Question for you
I am building a 1/5th scale DHC Beaver. The entire plane is skinned in 1/16 and 1/8 balsa. I was originally going to cover her with Solartex fabric but have since thought that glassing her using water based Poly Urethane might work well. Does anyone have any advice on the idea and or point me in a direction or advice on how to fibreglass using water based Poly Urethane. Any advice or direction would be helpful. Colin |
RE: Fibreglassing over Balsa
|
RE: Fibreglassing over Balsa
ORIGINAL: yellowpiper Question for you I am building a 1/5th scale DHC Beaver. The entire plane is skinned in 1/16 and 1/8 balsa. I was originally going to cover her with Solartex fabric but have since thought that glassing her using water based Poly Urethane might work well. Does anyone have any advice on the idea and or point me in a direction or advice on how to fibreglass using water based Poly Urethane. Any advice or direction would be helpful. Colin Glassing with Water Base Polyurethane 1. Sand the model with 220 grit and remove any highs/lows you may find. Fill as needed with lightweight filler and sand. 2. Give the wood 1 thin - medium coat of wood sealer. I use the commercial stuff. What this does is twofold - it stops the balsa from soaking up too much of the poly and at the same time protects the balsa from the water in the polyurethane. 3. When dry, sand lightly with 220 to remove the "fuzzies". 4. Some people say to apply a light coat of 3M #77 adhesive to the wood at this point. I have found that this is more trouble than it is worth since if you have a wrinkle, the complete piece of fiberglass has to be removed to straighten it out. I prefer to lay the fiberglass cloth on the part/area to be covered and smooth it out using a SOFT brush. Brush FROM THE CENTER TOWARDS THE EDGES. The static electricity usually holds it in place. I normally use 1/2 oz (.5 oz) or 3/4 oz (.75 oz) fiberglass cloth. 5. Using WATER BASE polyurethane and a FOAM brush, start at the center and brush towards the edges of the fiberglass. All you want to do is stick the fiberglass to the balsa, so excessive amounts are not needed. Any additional pieces of fiberglass should overlap each other about 1/2 - 3/4 inches. Let this dry. DO NOT SAND !! Brush on another coat of polyurethane. This coat can be a little heavier. Let this coat dry. DO NOT SAND !! 6. Mix up some polyurethane and microballoons. I use 1 part microballoons to about 5 parts polyurethane. This will be on the thick side. Brush on a medium coat of this mixture and let dry. 7. Wet sand this with 220 or 320 grit paper. BE CAREFUL, AS YOU CAN VERY EASILY SAND RIGHT THROUGH THE FIBERGLASS. 8. Check the fiberglass carefully to insure the weave is filled. If the weave is not completely filled, repeat step 6 and 7. 9. SPRAY a coat of water base polyurethane on the plane and let dry. DO NOT SAND !! 10. Spray a THIN coat of primer on the plane. When this is COMPLETELY dry, block wet sand with 220 or 320 grit as much of the plane as possible to highlight any highs/lows you may have missed during your sanding/prep. The areas that can not be block sanded, CAREFULLY sand by hand. (TIP: CA some of the wife's/girlfriends fingernail file boards together. Wrap the sandpaper around them so you can block sand in tight areas. The CA helps prevent the boards from disintergrating in the water) Fill any low areas with a lightweight filler and sand when dry. Apply a THIN coat of polyurethane to these areas. When the poly is dry, repeat this step until you are satisfied that all the highs/lows are removed. 11. SPRAY a thin coat of polyurethane on the plane. When dry, spray the primer. 12. When the primer is dry, you can apply your rivets, panel lines and other detailing desired. 13. Now you can spray your paint. |
RE: Fibreglassing over Balsa
well said campy. that's how i do it.
|
RE: Fibreglassing over Balsa
Thanks for the info. Very helpfull
Question. How do you finish off the corners For example on the fuse do you start on the bottom, trim to edge and then overlap the sides on to bottom by a slight margin. What about the wing. Interesting video invertmast, thanks campy and looked at a build thread by dhal22. |
RE: Fibreglassing over Balsa
I used the WBPU method above with excellent results - it was so easy and clean. I always stayed away from glassing because the challenge to get a good light finish, but the WBPU is so easy and because the PU evaporates, it makes for a light finish.
Steve |
RE: Fibreglassing over Balsa
Can you help me with finding a source for .05 oz cloth or even .75? I don't want to buy it one square yard at time. I used to buy it from a guy out west, but can't find him. Any help would be great.
|
RE: Fibreglassing over Balsa
I use Thayercraft for most of my glass needs.
|
RE: Fibreglassing over Balsa
Yes, Thayercraft is a great site for glass. I just got 50 Yds. of the .75 oz. for $75 delivered along with a few other weights of cloth. Each weight was rolled on a PVC pipe, sealed in plastic and wrapped in shipping paper. Good people to deal with and very quick service.
|
RE: Fibreglassing over Balsa
ORIGINAL: yellowpiper Thanks for the info. Very helpfull Question. How do you finish off the corners For example on the fuse do you start on the bottom, trim to edge and then overlap the sides on to bottom by a slight margin. What about the wing. I would recommend proceeding back to front, and bottom to top. For example, if you glass the fuse, start on the back and work forward. this way, all overlaps are backward facing. On the wings, do the bottoms first with a little overlap onto the top of the wing along the leading edge. Then do the top of the wing overlapping onto the bottom along the leading edge. The overlaps do not need to be too large, 1/2 to 1 inch, but this will also give two layers over the leading edge for a little more hanger rash resistance. Same with the hoirizontal stabs. Trailing edges are usually too sharp to bend around and are typically sanded once cured to trim the overhang. Scott |
RE: Fibreglassing over Balsa
I personally wouldn't use water base anything.
|
RE: Fibreglassing over Balsa
1 Attachment(s)
ORIGINAL: Avaiojet I personally wouldn't use water base anything. |
RE: Fibreglassing over Balsa
I started modeliong in 1975 and have used epoxy & glass. I've been away from the hobby for some time now and am currious agout the WBPU process. This thread has been very informative so far. My next project will be a 20% scale Zlin 526
At this point my only question is, whis PU product seems to be the poupular one to use? Thanks! Ken OK I liedhttp://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/js/f...ssed_smile.gif ..... I do have another question. Is the surface of a WBPU as hard and tough as a surface done using epoxy? |
RE: Fibreglassing over Balsa
Which PU product seems to be the popular one to use?
Most use Minwax Polycryilc. Is the surface of a WBPU as hard and tough as a surface done using epoxy? No it is not as hard as epoxy, but it is lighter and reasonably hard. |
All times are GMT -8. The time now is 04:50 PM. |
Copyright © 2024 MH Sub I, LLC dba Internet Brands. All rights reserved. Use of this site indicates your consent to the Terms of Use.