mtrain

Hello, I bought a ghost from Christmas past, last year which was a Cox Stuka.

When Iwas a kid my father was kinda a no show, but finally he made time to help me and my little buddies get the thing going. Ihad previously flown a Testers Flying Tiger that my cousin had, and had a blast.

However I was kinda scared of this bird so Ilet my cousin take the first flight. Well, he crashed it and sadley the Stuka was banished to the closet forever.

Last year I was on Ebay, and just got the idea to look for a Cox Stuka, and lo, and behold Ifound one.

Everything is fine, but the engine. I disassembled the engine just now, and it looks like just a stuck piston, but for the price of a new one I would rather just go that route.

Here is a link to the same Stuka Ibought last year.
http://cgi.ebay.com/VINTAGE-COX-JU87...item336355bce2

Since I'm going to get a new engine I would rather get one that is a tad more powerful so that I can run a longer line.

Can any of you tell me specifically what engine Ineed?.......thanks, Mike.

H5606

Hi Mike,

I see this is your first post. I had a couple back in the 70's and I believe it was a single bypass cylinder engine like those used in most of the Cox products... I used the stock dacron line full length and had terrific line tension. Line tension was so good that this airplane made some of the prettiest wheel landings during engine-off glide of any of the Cox C/L models I had flown. Some recommendations: My buddy and I flew off an asphault basketball court which made for a very nice, smooth flying surface and will allow the fun of those pretty landings; tape the sliding pilot's and gunner's canopies closed otherwise they'll blow off; the bomb drop and third line aren't worth the effort. For what it's worth, if the generator props were installed properly (flashing removed), they'll spin freely when the engine is running for a cool, scale-like effect.

green river rc

My Feedback: (2)

You are in luck on the engine, they are dirt cheep! At one time you could get a new one $10 or less on ebay. I bought 5 new ones once at a swap meet for $25. Good luck with your project and welcome to RCU.

H5606

Your recent acquisition got me interested in examining my 049s that I've kept over the years. The castor in the fuel is a great preservative but it congeals and freezes all the moving parts. Most of them have stuck pistons and cranks. I took all plastic parts off of one and stuck it in the oven for 13 minutes - I was able to remove the cylinder but the crank was still stuck. I soaked it in alcohol for a while and the crank still didn't budge. I clamped the crankcase lightly in soft jaws of a vise, heated it with a heatgun, screwed a prop on it and loosened up the stuck crankshaft. I stuck all the separated parts back in an alcohol jar to clean them up again.

Just a suggestion - you may be surpised how strong the original engine is and not need to go to a stronger engine with longer lines which could create other problems. With a little bit of patience, perhaps all you need to do is massage that OEM engine back to life. Enjoy it - wish I had one again!

p.s. Be careful when reassembling not to strip out the screw standoff posts that hold the fuse halves together because that's what led to the demise of my first Stuka.

mtrain

Would just any .049 engine do, or does it have to be a specific named .049, like a Golden Bee, Baby Bee, Black Widow, etc.

I would just go with the original, but with the availability of engines on Ebay I would rather just buy one, and install it. After that I will probably try to rebuild the original for a backup.

Lol, now that I think about it I'm already doing childhood over, with a year already past.

gcb

mtrain,

If you check out Cox International, and click on engines...the first ones that come up are the "Sure Start" engines. The secone one (not die cast) is what you need. The front end of that engine will directly replace the one you have, plus has a two bypass cylinder for more power. Bernie and Xena are nice folks to do business with.

The engine you have may have the "postage stamp" rear end. If so the rest of the engine may not be directly replaceable. While you have it apart, you may want to check that the reed is not stuck and the needle is not clogged with castor. If you have no experience with reeds, perhaps just squirt a little fuel on them and reassemble.

As mentioned, you might try squirting a little fuel on your present engine. Remove the glow head and put a couple dropsof fuel in the cylinder withthe cylinder facing up, and a little in the exhaust ports.

Good luck with it.

George

Dan Vincent

I just lay the stuck engine on a 25-50 watt light bulb for about 15 minutes and they usually loosen up. I try not to lay any plastic parts on the bulb.

After you get it moving squirt a prime of glo fuel in the exhaust and it should get even smoother.

The reeds have a habit of getting stuck with old oil so you could pop the backplate and clean the lower end.

Marvel Air Tool oil will keep it free forever.

nicelife2010

looks cools stuff for sure.